6 cavity Mould

[fiver]

try going from a 5 cavity hm-2 aluminum mold to a 4 cavity 120gr lyman mold, you quickly learn what an iron on a ruler feels like.
I'm not giving up any of my 4 cavity steel molds though, the kids are gonna have to work on wearing them out first.

my whole LEE arsenal consists of one borrowed 2 cavity mold, a 30 cal 2 cavity mold, and a 6 cavity mold blank converted into an 11 cavity 30 cal core mold..

 

[Brad]

I have one 4 cav Lyman mould, a 358156. I haven't used it in years. I did get a set of normal handles for it from Red River Rick. The nutcracker handles and I just don't get along. I just don't need a gas checked 357 bullet very often. If it shot better in my Marlin I would use it there but the rifle just doesn't like it.

 

[Ian]

See, Brad, you need a mill. Take care of that gas check shank in a jiffy, and cut vent lines on the top of the blocks at the same time. Then you can make an inset-bar hallow point setup like Erik Ohlen does.....

 

[Cherokee]

I have a doz Lee 6 cv molds, every one of them has a drywall screw head added for the sprue cam lever to cam against, but I don't have a problem requiring the set screw addition. I know I have over 20K through a 356120TC (lube grooves) and it is still going strong, casting great bullets every time.

 

[Brad]

See, Brad, you need a mill. Take care of that gas check shank in a jiffy, and cut vent lines on the top of the blocks at the same time. Then you can make an inset-bar hallow point setup like Erik Ohlen does.....

So, are you contributing to the legal fees for the divorce?
I think a mill would be great but right now wouldn't dream of askng the wife. I got enough grief for coming home with 8 pounds of H110!

 

[KHornet]

Many years ago (pre Lee) in one of the NRA pubs, there was an article about a box made just for resting gang molds on before cutting sprews. Back then it was all Iron mold, and the box helped I am told, but didn't build one, because, the most I could afford back then were 1 and 2 cav molds.

 

[Bret4207]

I have an H+G gang mould, IIRC it's a 10 cav. That sucker will let you know you used it.

I've never had a problem with a Lee mould I couldn't trace back to the guy running it.

 

[Pistolero]

Al,
Good to see you here. I have to agree with the Lee TC designs. I have to continue to shake my head
at the amazing amount of resistance that folks show to going to the Lee 356 120 TC design for that
ultimate problem child, the 9mm Para. This design at .357/.358 really solves essentially all the problems and even
when the detailed shortcut to good 9mm ammo is presented to them, many insist on going off and
working with RN designs that frequently give chambering and/or feeding issues added to the normal
"too hard and too small with Crayola lube" problems that commercial offerings bring to the 9mm market.
Apparently the desire to have ammo that LOOKS like commercial ammo is very strong, and difficult
to overcome.

I have used the Lee 230 TC in the .45 ACP and while it works fine, and is a fine choice, but that cartridge
is so much more forgiving and the alloy savings and lower recoil from the 200 gr vs 230 gr leave me
back at the various 200 SWCs as my choices.

 

[Cherokee]

I second your comments on the Lee 356 120 TC - a great design that works great in 9mm ad 38 Super. In my XDM 9 Comp, I have over 20k rounds with that bullet and not a single malfuction, plus other 9's with same results. For the 45 AC
P, wheres I like the 230 TC and used it for many years, but now I use SWC and TC bullets around 200 gr as you do.