Cast linotype mix expanding?

Pest889

New Member
Pest889,
Have you read up on reloading cast bullets?
like the first half of the Lyman castbullet handbook 4th Ed
OR better yet,
"From ingot to target"
No I havn't. Ive been using the last couple days reading and learning so I can figure out what I can do about these bullets. There is a NOE Nose sizer but they are not in stock and im not sure there isnt issues with misshaping the bullet even when pushing it through the body die after. Im thinking the nose is 1 or 2 thou over. The barrel on the Henry is definetly tighter than the old Winchester. I ordered a micrometer but its going to be a few days. Im not seeing a solution yet. Even if I recast them they will probably swell again. I also ordered a Lee hardness tester, maybe I can add more softer lead if the hardness permits. They dont seem overly hard though. Might be I just use them in the Winchester.
 

JonB

Halcyon member
I suggested that reading, because I get the impression you don't understand the basics of loading cast bullets.
In case I am wrong, let me answer your original questions. Yes, some alloys can grow a small amount, like 0.0005" but that alloy you describe isn't likely one of them, but range scrap can be anything, so I guess it's possible. If a loaded cartridge won't chamber, then maybe the bullet nose is too fat...you didn't powder coat them, did you? Having a good quality 0-1" micrometer and the knowledge of how to use it, is an important thing to figure this type of stuff out.

 

RBHarter

West Central AR
Ok from my own train wrecks and adventures.

Yes bullets can and will grow . The more stuff in the mix beyond lead and tin the more likely and more dramatic it will be ..... We're talking 3&4 decimals here not 2.

Lead at the breach is sizing. Lead at the muzzle is lube . Lead anywhere else is a barrel defect or a gross over pressure of the alloy .
I had an 06' that was clean 4" in front of the chamber , and the last 4" to the muzzle with a thick greasy lube star . The dovetail for the long gone rear sight was the focus point with a little help from the barrel roll stamp . The middle 10" or so of the barrel was in fact larger than the leade and the last 5" of barrel . It would freely chamber .314 but was only .306×.300 at the muzzle.

The best way after slugging and sizing to the throat is to go shoot it .
 

Pest889

New Member
Pest889,
Have you read up on reloading cast bullets?
like the first half of the Lyman castbullet handbook 4th Ed
OR better yet,
"From ingot to target"
Thanks, I downloaded From Ingot to Target now. Ill read that and im sure it will help
 

Pest889

New Member
I bought the linotype from a local old man that had some long heavy bars of it. He said he worked at the printing press when they still used linotype. I can only assume that was the case. The range lead I got I think off of Ebay but im not sure.
I dont remember saying I was all versed on the ins and outs of things... Thats why I came here to ask questions.
I know how it is, I have 2 trades and I know when someone doesnt know what they are talking about. Im a pressure welder and a pipefitter

Fact is I saw what was coming in the world for us about 5 years ago. My Dad was dying and gave me his old 30-30 he bought when he was 17 back in the early 50's. Thats where I started to get prepared. I couldnt afford to stock up on store bought and I even hadnt done much shooting at the time. Plus the added benifit of making more when there isnt any stores. Im glad I did cause what I saw coming is almost here.
 
Last edited:

fiver

Well-Known Member
last post on the matter.

your barrel has 2 diameters.
your barlow type bullet has 2 diameters.
[barlow is a 2 diameter bullet with parallel sides, AKA bore rider type]

both of those diameters have to work with your barrel.
there's a lot more to it to get the best out of the relationship, but those are your two main considerations when your first starting out.
 

Tom

Well-Known Member
Yep definetly not understanding something. I thought u said tight was good? Why the hell is the mold a 309 for a 300 bore? So if the nose is too big then what happens? :p
The bore is the distance between the lands. As a rule of thumb, the groove diameter is around .008 larger than the bore. If your mold is a bore rider design, the nose should be bore size and the larger diameter of the body should be ever so slightly larger than the groove diameter to properly engage the rifling and seal it so as not to allow gas to get by the bullet. There's a lot more to it than that, but the ingot to target will explain it in more detail than I can.
 
Last edited:

STIHL

Well-Known Member
Read all you can, then read it again. I’ve read this stuff 42 times and I am still lost as a goose in a snow storm some days. Shooting your own cast is a lot of fun, but it can be a pain in the ass. Rifles are particular more aggravating, especially if your chasing accuracy, rather than pistols. At least for me it is. I’m still learning this stuff and have been at it for 8-9 years now.

One thing I will tell you, these guys here know their stuff, and know it well. They may seem to be beating you up, but it’s a lot more to it than just shove a bullet in there and let it fly.

If you want accuracy and no leading, you want a snug fit, snug enough it will be a little tight to chamber a round. There are so many variables and small tweaks you can make it becomes a sum of 20 little things that can make or break a load. Bullet diameter is one of the bigger ones. I’m shooting bullets .003 over groove diameter in some of my loads. Some bullets won’t work in some guns, so you buy another mold or figure out a way to nose size, or whatever. Shooting cast ain’t always a money saver, it’s a love of the hobby, that only few have. It’s a lot of work, and time.

You don’t have to break the bank, but a set of decent dial calipers is a must in this hobby.

ETA: that’s a good looking scooter you got there in your avatar!!!
 
Last edited: