cleaning lead alloy

[Kevin Stenberg]

When I have a layer of sawdust and wax. On the surface of my pot. And the sawdust hasn't completely chard yet. If I used a potato masher ( the kitchen utinsal to make mashed potatoes) and forced the unburnt sawdust under the surface of the melted lead. Will the moisture in the unburnt wood cause a reaction and give me a visit from the lead fairy

 

[Brad]

A couple things.
Once the wood is charred from being on the surface of the melt, or at least mostly charred, it is pretty well dried out. Forcing it under the surface at this point is very unlikely to cause issues from moisture. Do not push sawdust under the surface until it has begun to char, it could still hold some moisture.

A bigger issue with what you propose is the fact that small bits of ash, etc could remain trapped under the surface. Those bits are so light that they can't easily float to the surface. This is a good way to get inclusions in bulles. This is also a fine way to plug the bottom pour spout.

I use a spoon to bring lead up and dribble it thru the charring wood. I then ignite the wood and while it burns I stir vigorously. Once it is extinguished I stir more and keep dumping lead thru the ash and charred remains. I then skim the ash off. Stir again, this will bring more to the surface. I scrap the sides and bottom of the pot with my spoon at this point. I like to stir in a manner that gives a good upcurrent. This always brings a bit of debris to the surface.

Ash and debris don't get below the surface of the melt unless we put it there.

 

[Rick]

Possibly but just as bad is that it will force the sawdust under the surface and the density of the lead will hold some of it there and eventually into your bullets.

 

[quicksylver]

I am no going to disagree with what has been said, however consider this, my sawdust is around two years old and is stored in a plastic leaf bag, it's dry and yes some moisture can be absorbed by it, some not much...now that being said I have come close to visiting the tinsel fairy when using it improperly...saw dust is wood as we all know.....wood doesn't burn...just like candles don't burn...
the vapors from the heated wood burn... vapors are as we all know are gases...if you put a pile of saw dust or shaving on top of your alloy and you watch smoke will form ..that smoke can be ignited just like the smoke from a candle..you can watch the flame go down to the wood...if on the other hand you place the saw dust (shavings) on top of the alloy and immediately force it into the alloy those fumes are trapped under the surface and will either start to cause severe "bubbling" or if done fast enough WILL cause the tinsel fairy to appear...obviously any moisture and/or sap in the saw dust will make matters worse....as the advertisement for the insurance company says.."been there ..covered that"..

So until you are experienced enough with the use of saw dust for fluxing my suggestion is to burn it or at least partially burn it first then stir.....

 

[RBHarter]

Vapors not fumes . Fumes are potentially lethal particles . Vapors are the oxidation of a material and the displacement of it's stored energy . Fire is really just really fast light emitting rust .

By the time you have smoke from the sawdust odds are on your side by a wide margin that the water is gone in any reasonable depth . Pitch is different and may flair up .

Sorry too many haz mat classes and just enough fire science to be dangerous ... Carry on ......

Just rattling chains . No smarty pants know-it-all intended .
Been on a tear with getting books at the lie berry too .

 

[Kevin Stenberg]

Like most of the comments. I have been using a ladal to dip lead and pour it through the charred surface. And I was wondering what would happen if I did what I asked in my opening question. Thank you all so much.

 

[KHornet]

I quit using sawdust, a number of years back based on the recommendation of some gun writer,
whose name I have, along with the article, long forgotten.

I use a pine dowl, and I run it aroundthe side of the pot and on the bottom. There is some
smoke, and what appears to be adequatechar. Anyhow that has worked for me for a long time,
and I do not fix what works for me.

Paul

 

[358156 hp]

I've gotten wood char trapped in my alloy before, and the experience really soured me on using wood chips, actually hamster bedding from the same pet store my walnut media comes from . I am about ready to melt down and clean another 5 gal. bucket of wheelweights, and I'll try wood again then, now that I understand the process a little better. I probably won't use it in my pot again, and I've learned another lesson about doing dirty work like heavy fluxing outside my casting pot.

What I really need to do is build a control for my propane fish cooker that will work with my PID to roughly control the temps within about 50 degrees or so without shutting off the flame completely.

 

[Brad]

A PID controlled propane burner would be a neat trick. Perfect for melting wheel weights and avoid zinc.

 

[KeithB]

Maybe a pilot light can be incorporated into a PID controlled system.

 

[358156 hp]

Maybe a pilot light can be incorporated into a PID controlled system.

Water heaters have them, it has to be possible. In fact, a propane RV water heater should have about 90% of the parts needed to build a complete propane melter. A PID would replace the bulb & capillary type thermostat.

My, my. The ideas that flow from these boards some days. This could work.

 

[Brad]

Way beyond my abilities.
If you can make it work I'm sure it will become a hit.

 

[Ian]

Hook your PID's SSR to an electric gas solenoid valve. A pilot light can be jury-rigged with copper capillary tubing and regulated with a needle valve, or someone clever enough could rig a simple electronic timer that fired an electric igniter for a few seconds every time the PID commanded the burner solenoid on. There may be enough stuff in a gas water heater to do it all automatically if the PID could be wired to it somehow.

 

[KeithB]

How about using a T fitting to split the gas flow into two lines. One would go through a manual valve and then to the burner. The other would go through the PID controlled solenoid valve and then to the burner. Adjust the manual valve to just enough flow to keep the burner lit at a low level. When the PID triggers the the solenoid, the burner would come on at full output. I'm pretty sure the PID would learn and adjust itself. (This assumes the lowest setting will not produce enough heat to keep the temperature constant or rising in the pot.)

Of course you could always buy a cheap Bunsen burner as a pilot light. You'll still need a T fitting.

I would assume this would be used outdoors, I do not think that thermocouples or other safety control features are needed.