Deep hole drilling a coolant manifold

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
We recently built a multiple tool holder setup for our CNC lathe. The apprentice joked at the time that with only one coolant nozzle he was working too hard moving it from tool to tool. That's sort of our in-joke, he complained when I switched him from the manual lathe to the CNC that he had to change tools too often. (Truth is he'll do anything he is asked to do and does it well with no angst.)

Anyway, he made a good point. With tools of different lengths and in different positions there is always some fidgeting around getting consistent coolant flow to the tool point. So we decided to make a coolant distribution manifold the next time we had some slack time.

This was not really much of a design challenge but the resulting design was a manufacturing challenge in one respect. It would require accurately drilling a 7/16" hole 12.5" deep. The only machine we had available that had the clearance, range of travel, and accuracy needed was our manual lathe, a 15 x 50 Clausing.

The manifold required a 2" x 2" x 13" aluminum bar, a long 7/16" drill, and several packs of plastic valves, fittings, nozzles, and hose pieces.

The first step was to lay out the end of the bar and drill a center hole. Our drill press is a floor mounted type with lots of clearance so it was used to drill the center hole.

The piece was then chucked up in the four jaw chuck and the tailstock center and an indicator was run down the sides. It was very easy to get the sides parallel within a few thousandths.

With the piece supported by the tailstock center a turn was made on the end, just enough to get a full diameter. This turn was then used with the steady rest to support the piece while drilling out of the tailstock.

An 18" long 7/16" drill with 15" of flutes was ordered from drillsandcutters.com. A short drill was used to spot the hole and then the long drill was used thereafter. After drilling a couple inched deep it became a process of drilling .2" deep, unclamping and pulling the whole tailstock back to clear the chips, sliding the whole tailstock forward, locking it down, drilling another .2" deep, rinse and repeat... Oh well, I needed some upper body exercise anyway.

With the hole drilled to depth the part was put on the manual mill and a shelf was cut on one side. Six holes were drilled in the top and tapped. The end hole was also tapped. One of the ratchet wrenches in my set fit the pipe tap perfectly and that made tapping very easy in the aluminum.

After cleaning up the piece the plastic ball fittings were screwed into the holes, the shutoff valves were popped onto the fittings, and the piece was mounted to the CNC lathe cross slide using some of the accessory holes. The coolant hose was hooked up, and a full array of hoses was snapped into place. (By the way, buy the tool, it makes snapping together the hose pieces real easy.)

We don't keep all the hoses in place all the time, but the flexibility this gives us is very useful. Having multiple distribution points is very handy. We can use a zip tie to hold down a hose to a long drill to get fluid all along the length, and with a little replumbing we can accommodate thru-tool cooling.

I thought this solved our problems, but now the apprentice complains that he has to shut off and turn on too many valves. Looks like some solenoid valves wired to the I/O board are in order...

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Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Now that is a project that makes sense. Your apprentice sounds like a guy who likes to solve problems, not just find them.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
if that was made out of pipe fittings it would look like the air manifold for my star bench.
 

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
Well, I really didn't want an array of pipe fittings to have to deal with.
 

Ian

Notorious member
I'm still scratching my head over the 12 point Gearwrench fitting the square tap shank. 3-6-9-12, ok I get that there's a square form in there somewhere, it just looks odd and I never tried it that way due to having a tap socket set and a set of 8-point shallow sockets for all the taps that nothing in the tap socket set will fit (an annoyingly large percentage).
 

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
I think I just got lucky on that one Ian. I used to have a set of 8 point sockets that I bought so I could use a ratchet instead of the open end wrenches that were used on the square head screws on most of the older machine tools where I used to work.
 

smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
Band-aid solutions are a pet peeve of mine and finding ways to improve efficiency a bit of a side-hobby.

Just as you are lucky to have a good apprentice, he's lucky to have you mentoring him. You don't just look at what will produce the most today, but how to make the most of time and machinery (resources) next week, month and year. That outlook is rare in the vast majority of machine shops.
Although I've spent most of my time in studio and film lab machine shops which are the farthest environments from a job-shop as you can get, I've also spent enough time in aerospace and mom & pop job-shops to know this is true.
In a job-shop on a 0700 to 1530 shift, when the second hand passes the 12 you yank up on the jog handle on your lathe and if you aren't up to your ankles in chips by 0730, pack up your tool box and get the hell out, cuz we have a half dozen guys waiting to take your spot.
I've only known three other bosses that looked past today with regard to efficiency and productivity, and one of them was me.

With regard to your coolant manifold project, the only part I didn't understand was why you had to unlock the tailstock every time and slide it back to clear chips, instead of just cranking back on the tailstock quill and unlocking and moving the tailstock just when you had exhausted the quill travel.
 

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
Once I got 4+" into the hole, just retracting the quill wasn't enough to clear the chips out. I've got 5" of quill travel. I just lubed the bedways thoroughly and got into a rhythm of locking the tailstock, crank the quill handle a turn and a quarter (.250") and then back a quarter (-.050") to break the chips, then unlock tailstock, pull back until the drill point clears, slide forward until the drill bottoms, lock the tailstock, do it again. Do that forty or fifty times and you know you got in your cardio for the day.

I'm tickled pink that I've recovered enough physically to be able to stand and run a lathe for several hours at a time.
 
F

freebullet

Guest
Spectacular! Very professional work.

Thanks for sharing & nice pics.
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
Interesting project, and it is good to hear that you are able to stand and work for hours on end.
That is great.

Always interesting to see what you are doing, and learn from it.

Bill
 

smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
Once I got 4+" into the hole, just retracting the quill wasn't enough to clear the chips out. I've got 5" of quill travel. I just lubed the bedways thoroughly and got into a rhythm of locking the tailstock, crank the quill handle a turn and a quarter (.250") and then back a quarter (-.050") to break the chips, then unlock tailstock, pull back until the drill point clears, slide forward until the drill bottoms, lock the tailstock, do it again.

OK, got it now.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Lubing and sliding the tailstock was one of the big "Ah-HA!" moments I picked up from a utoober who sort of mentioned it in passing.