Evapo-RUST

[CWLONGSHOT]

Any one tried it??

I have been using it for years. Its Awesome stuff. One think I have learned is it will remove bluing. ( bluing is rust)

Here is my plyers. They cleaned up right nicely!!

CW

 

[STIHL]

Know some folks that have used it and seen the results. It’s some good stuff, just have to remember to fully submerge what your cleaning or you can tell the areas that were done at a different time. It will eat the rust away though.

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

YES, if ya look at the plyer grips in the video, ya can distinctly see a rust line!!!
Love the stuff!!

CW

 

[Ian]

Been using it a long time. I have a tall olive jar full if it for soaking pliers and other hand tools.

 

[Tomme boy]

I like electrolysis better. Not as harsh as the acid.

 

[Missionary]

Well that is shocking to read that !

 

[CWLONGSHOT]

One of evaporusts claims is very safe no harsh chemicals. Super safe, Non toxic.

The Best Rust Remover | Quick & Easy with CRC's Evapo-Rust®

CRC's Evapo-Rust® Heavy Duty Rust Remover will remove rust to bare metal in minutes without scrubbing. It is also biodegradable and reusable!

www.evapo-rust.com

 

[fiver]

it does the job for sure.

 

[Ian]

It makes my skin sore so I avoid getting it on me.

 

[RicinYakima]

"Environmentally safe" means things like sodium hydroxide, sulfuric acid and many others. That means exposed to the weather for 30 days, it has all reacted away. As opposed to MEK, acetone and benzene that stay that way for years.

 

[oscarflytyer]

Def works. AND DEF removes bluing too!

 

[JimmyDee]

Wonderful product. Easy to use, works quickly and well.

 

[Wasalmonslayer]

Love the stuff fix and restore many farm tools with it!!

 

[358156 hp]

Most used moulds I buy end up spending a day or two in the Evaporust can. I keep a quart-size paint can from the hardware store with Evaporust for such projects. Everything goes in, hardware and all. Then I rinse the mould and scrub it with Barkeepers Friend to remove the stubborn parts. After the final rinse the parts go into the oven to thoroughly dry while the lead pot heats up. The parts get a short soak in light oil, and then float atop the molten lead in an old LEE pan lubing tin pan until nicely blued. Then the mould is ready for use, or storage. After the first two steps, the moulds are completely "in the white", and must be oiled, blued, or both.

 

[Tomme boy]

The reason I like the electrolysis better is it will not remove that black patina that steels get over time. Any of the chemical ways remove everything.

I was selling a bunch of axe heads on eBay. I always got more out of them because of the black patina that was still on them. Most of the old axe heads I find around here are rusted up pretty bad. Usually takes a couple days to get them clean. I use a power supply I built when I went through college for an electronics degree. And rebar from home depot. The rusty ooze collects on the rebar. Just wipe it off and it is good to go again.

 

[RicinYakima]

What are you using for an electrolyte? I would like to learn how to do that for some old reloading presses I have.

 

[JustJim]

I use electrolysis to de-rust some tools. For an electrolyte I've been using as much baking soda as will dissolve in the volume of water I'm using. (First tried it when I got bored while snowed in, and never changed.) Most folks recomend a similar solution of washing soda.

 

[Tomme boy]

Washing soda. You can use salt and other things. You just need to make water conductive. Water does not conduct electricity. The minerals in the water does. Pure water is an insulator.

 

[RicinYakima]

Oh yes, the sodium carbonate vs sodium bicarbonate. Seems like either would work as long as you rinse it well.

 

[todd]

i really like evapo rust. i used it to get the rust off of my krag.

rusted 1898 spr srmory

oxpho blue