Only those containing beeswax. The whole point of crash-cooling (invented by JonB by the way, out of kindness to the work of the bees when he added a portion of beeswax to SL-68.somethinoruther, and he used his readily-available copious quantities of snow for cooling) was to prevent the scorching of the beeswax.
Scorching beeswax has haunted me with the soap lubes since I began trying to make it. I was told beewax, soap, Vaseline, and a dab of castor oil and that's it, heat carefully and don't burn it. Well, that AIN'T it and it took about three years and SL-1.0 to about SL-50 something just trying to crack that nut, then I finally learned how to make the stuff backwards by adding beeswax after I'd made soap/vaseline/castor grease at full temp and cooled it about 200 degrees while stirring. This made an opaque, lumpy goo but with enough stirring and re-heating at relatively low temperature it came out ok and shot reasonably well. THEN I figured out the beeswax wasn't beeswax, and that whole drama started and I began experimenting with microwax...which lead to SL-67 and on up because the petro waxes can withstand the 460° liquidus threshold of the soap, no crash-cooling needed, and you can even make fabulous hollow sticks with it if you use metal tubes and rods, just pour the liquid into moulds and let it cool naturally into a nice, translucent, homogenous, waxy grease.
Now here's a real kicker of a truth dart: It doesn't matter if you scorch the beeswax a little. It smells horrible, and keeps smelling horrible for a long time (burnt, SOUR smell, imagine if you will putting a rosebud torch to a gooey, house cat turd and you're most of the way there) but I'll be danged if lube made suchly doesn't shoot quite well. Sure, it's dark reddish-brown like Chicory coffee and raises stench to the heavens but actually the scorching doesn't seem to affect the chemical properties of the beeswax negatively, at least not for the purposes of bullet lubricant.
I still think it's a good idea to pre-melt the beeswax and dump it in liquid near the end to minimize the scorching, and crash-cooling will nearly stop the scorching altogether, but more important in my mind's eye is how does it shoot and how hard is it to make. Your call.
If you don't need a hot-weather lube I'd give Pete's 4Q a try, if he says it's good you can take that to the bank. Soap wasn't for accuracy, it was for durability and being able to make a more versatile, functional, soft lube for both hot and cold weather which would also withstand extreme pressure in the barrel without blowing the obturation and still jettison at low pressure. Universal lube for hunting and self-defense ammo in Texas weather conditions was the main goal, not everyone needs those qualities.
