Graphite Spray

[Jeff H]

So does a pencil.

.....

Or a welder's soapstone. I used a soft carpenter's pencil for years until I ended up with a fistful of soapstone markers. I can't say they're better, but just as good and they are a lot wider and easier (quicker) to get coverage on 6C sprue-plates without losing heat.

Pencil does work wonders though.

 

[Jeff H]

After reading all of this, I'm thinking maybe I need loto tickets if I'm lucky enough to get nice bullets using the stuff.

Ben

By the looks of your targets, Ben, I think maybe the rest of us should AVOID loto tickets!

It'd be a tough sell with me to convince me that you need luck casting and shooting.

 

[358156 hp]

I found mine has use as a lube on the plate the primer slide rides on for my Dillon.
I may try it on top of a mould with bullets inserted in the cavities to see how well it prevents lead smearing.

I've been avoiding it, but I think I'll go ahead and get a bottle of Neolube just for this very purpose.

 

[Bret4207]

My spray is SUPER THIN.
May very well be the reason that I had good luck with it today.

Ben

My can from probably 20 years back spit gobs of the gunk all over the place. Maybe they improved it?

 

[RicinYakima]

I still have a little of the Midway stuff from 20 years ago, and use it to lube the locking mechanism on the 5th wheel hitch. Water proof and doesn't seem to wear off over a summer's camping.

 

[fiver]

soapstone should work too as mentioned.
i use it on the ramp for my shot maker, the lead doesn't stick to it's fairly rough surface, but still has just enough gription to make the drips roll.

 

[CZ93X62]

Lee moulds IME do better more quickly with a bit of carbon from a wooden kitchen match's smoke in their cavities. My theory is that the very light ablative coating slows heat transfer a bit to the aluminum mould block, Curiously--Walt's NEI moulds--NOE's aluminum moulds--and Tom's Accurate Moulds don't seem to need smoked cavities.

 

[RicinYakima]

Lee moulds IME do better more quickly with a bit of carbon from a wooden kitchen match's smoke in their cavities. My theory is that the very light ablative coating slows heat transfer a bit to the aluminum mould block, Curiously--Walt's NEI moulds--NOE's aluminum moulds--and Tom's Accurate Moulds don't seem to need smoked cavities.

Not made out of the same alloy and have different porosity. Lee's are made out of recycled soda and beer cans. Which is the purest of aluminum.

 

[Rockydoc]

I smoked a mold once, but I didn't inhale.

 

[CZ93X62]

You miscreants.

 

[Mitty38]

Proof is in the pudding' .

I say, if you get a good casting session with a mold-mould then keep it as it is.
Most of my moulds are used. So they have been figured out by a previous owner.

Some have a coating of some kind. As long as they cast the bullet I want. Good enough.

Most of my steel moulds get stored soaked with Kroil when put away. Then wiped down leaving a bit on it to burn off with about 10 cull casts. This is my main method, for steel and Iron. Works for me. Not going to change it.

I have a wore out Ideal iron mould, that was coated with something??? kinda like graphite from Brownells, according to the previous owner to make it smaller. Defiantly visible and thick. It works well, makes bullets the exact size I want. So I kept it dry, do not touch the cavities and leave it that way. And dread the day the coating wears off or I need to clean the cavities.

I have an old Lee Mold that gets sprayed down with Napa Graphite spray and another that gets candle smoked. Because the original owners told me they cast best that way.

Most of my newer aluminum get nothing at all but desiccant in the storage bag and chain saw oil under the sprue plate.
But if I had one that was getting a bit big or rough. I would probably go with Graphite.

 

[fiver]

burnt off Kroil is a release agent.
i have purposely sprayed iron molds down with penetrating oil while hot to test the theory.
it is a meh,,, maybe, sometimes, might help thing.

 

[462]

Back in my newbie bullet casting days I followed the Great Kroil Controversy. (Man, that topic sure upset a lot of hornets.) I had an old and troublesome two-cavity Lyman mould of forgotten number, that I Kroiled and bullets jumped out upon mould opening.

Thank you, Fiver, for the memory jog.

 

[Mitty38]

462
The old Lyman 358311 you gifted me stuck a bit.
Now gets stored soaked in Kroil between every use. With the Kroil burnt out at the start of every cast. After the first 5 casts or so. Perfect .359 Bullets just pop right out everytime.
One of my most pleasurable moulds to cast with.

 

[Mitty38]

 

[462]

462
The old Lyman 358311 you gifted me stuck a bit.
Now gets stored soaked in Kroil between every use. With the Kroil burnt out at the start of every cast. After the first 5 casts or so. Perfect .359 Bullets just pop right out everytime.
One of my most pleasurable moulds to cast with.

That's who the mould went to. I'd disremembered, too, applying the Kroil or I would've mentioned it. Glad you discovered the trick and it's working for you.

By the way, have you cast any Lee 358-158-SWCs?

 

[Mitty38]

That's who the mould went to. I'd disremembered, too, applying the Kroil or I would've mentioned it. Glad you discovered the trick and it's working for you.

By the way, have you cast any Lee 358-158-SWCs?

Not yet, but that one is next in line.
Just waiting for a nice cool day when my plate is clear.