Grizzly G0765

Gary

SE Kansas
I found one on Craigslist that's been unboxed but never used setting in a commercial business that's downsizing. They're asking $500. Only catch is shipping is another $90. I live about 3 hours drive from them and I'm thinking about offering them a little less and see if they will sell. It looks like a good deal and everything is included, even the manual.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Grizzly will ship you a new one to your door for $706 including truck freight w/o liftgate and with that you get their outstanding warranty, customer service, and the latest upgrades.
 

Jeff Michel

Member
I had a 13.5 Grizzly years ago, good lathe for the money. I would imagine that you could do some good work with it in spite of it's size. FWIW, Grizzly has the identical lathe on sale right now. 615.00 plus 89 to ship. Maybe you could use that as a bargaining incentive. Good luck
 

Gary

SE Kansas
Ian; Jeff; I know this Lathe hasn't had the serial # registered with Grizzly and that would make the warranty new when I register it, no? Also, Jeff, the seller sets 30 miles from Grizzly in Springfield MO. He did however budge a little and if the warranty thing is good to go, I'll probably get it this weekend.
Thanks guys
 

Gary

SE Kansas
That's a good question Keith, I really don't know. About the warranty; Grizzly states a one year limited warranty for THE ORIGINAL OWNER. Not a deal breaker but good to know. I have several Grizzly tools and never had one bit of trouble or warranty work necessary.
 

Gary

SE Kansas
It found out the Lathe is about 1.5 yrs old. Told the gentleman I was going to pass on his offer based on Grizzly's warranty terms (warranty ONLY applies to original owner) and advice from members here.
 

Gary

SE Kansas
Well, I went ahead and bought the lathe I spoke about in the opening post. I know I'm taking a risk, but I got it for a 1/3 off retail price, and it is new. I pick it up on Wednesday. Bought a bench off Craigslist and got it home today. Top is an inch thick MDF and I'm going to glue another inch piece on top. It's a Craftsman bench and isn't the most sturdy of bench's, but with a little angle iron around the top, I think it'll be OK.
I'll post some pics when I get it set up. BTW, with the money savings from not paying retail for the Lathe, I ordered a QCTP from LMS so I can at least make things a bit easier. Also have a local machinist friend that is helping me with tooling and stuff.
Gary
 

Ian

Notorious member
Get your tailstock drill chuck from LMS, too, they have the correct one for this particular tailstock, assuming yours has the same upgraded tailstock that mine has. Consider sealing that MDF with a few coats of thinned polyurethane sanded between coats, or at least brush some paint on it so it doesn't become an oil sponge. You can mount the lathe to the bench from below using M6x200mm studs and nuts. Run an old tap through the holes in the feet to clear out the sand, grit, and chips before installing the studs. Use the chip tray for a template to drill from the top, and use a drill with an accurate bubble level to make sure the holes are plumb.

You can put the rubber pucks under the chip tray or leave them out. Put a bead of good, oil-resistant silicone around each hole between the lathe feet and the tray before you bolt the lathe down to prevent oil leaks.

Let us know how that QCTP works out, it's on my short list of things to buy next.
 

Gary

SE Kansas
Thanks for the help Ian. I already have a chuck and a live center + a Indicator. The Indicator is a quality tool but it indicates .0005", I think that's a wee tiny for my needs. It's a Mitutoyo or something like that, think I'll have to get a different one.
BTW, already have two coats of Lacquer on the top, get a couple more on tomorrow. Keep the tips coming, I appreciate them.
Gary
 

Jeff Michel

Member
Congratulations on your new lathe. Sounds like your off to a good start for tooling. Though it sounds small, .0005 is exactly what you need. In time, your skill will enable you to work to limits that small, even though that's seldom necessary, your going to want too. Keep an eye on Ebay for tooling, especially for micrometers, calipers and find a tool supply book, Travers has a good one, find out what stuff costs and that will reduce the chance to get eaten alive if you bid on an item. One item (my opinion) is invaluable is the book "How to run a lathe" it was produced by the Southbend Lathe Company and is crammed with stuff you will need to know as you go along. They have been printed forever, mine is 1934 edition. Have your machinist friend help you to level your lathe, this is probably one of the most ignored aspect of machines I've ever seen. It's not so much level as your removing twist while your bolting it down. If you fail too, your ability to crank out any decent parts will be hindered e.g. cutting tapers. And, you will accelerate the wear on your lathe. I check mine frequently and usually have to make some adjustment once or twice a year and my stuff is bolted to a six inch concrete floor. If you need the loan of any specialized tooling to get a project moving, don't be afraid to ask. Good luck.
 

Ian

Notorious member
I found out how important a level bed is when setting up long pieces in the steady rest.
 
F

freebullet

Guest
Congrats, Gary!

Hope to see some project details when you get her going.

Talk about enablers y'alls freaking killing me.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Hey Gary, welcome to the Club. Pull up a chair and let's talk outboard spiders and making a tailstock alignment bar :cool:

After that we'll have a round of carbide insert tooling and maybe a boring bar chaser. Oh, and let me share the racy photos of the Marlin I just threaded for a suppressor....
 

Ian

Notorious member
Marlin muzzle threading setup.jpg

The barrel was too small and out of round for a mating shoulder, so I carefully faced the muzzle square and true and faced the inside of the brake square so they mate up nice and true.
Marlin muzzle threads.jpg

Let's see your machine setup, Gary! You'll be making all sorts of cool stuff in no time.
 

Intheshop

Banned
I don't think you're going to have any warranty issues.Some nut and bolt stuff may be a little (lot) cheesy but it's easily replaced.

I would spring $ for a sheet metal pan to go on top of the wood though.Find a real sheet metal,roofing co.Mine has been there from the mid 1800's and those boys could NOT be more accommodating.Paint grade(you are set up for spraying right)24g is less than 1.50$ a sq ft.

You want to contain the mess,not having it soak into wood or worse,running on the floor.Turn up the pans edges about 1-1 1/2".The especially inlightened would fab in a chip drawer.....just sayin,laziness matters when hosing down the equipment.A few hours spent designing during the setup phase saves grief down the rd.

Be safe,no loose clothing or jewelry.Read the manual.
 

Gary

SE Kansas
Thanks ITS, all good points and great recommendations. I've got a little time before my tooling arrives and sheet metal pan just sounds right.
 

Ian

Notorious member
The sheet metal pan that comes with the lathe will catch drips and chips..and funnel oil underneath the headstock end where you can't get to it very easily. The chip guard on the back side is about 2" too short to keep chips from flying over the top, but I wouldn't want to put anything permanently-mounted behind it because of needing to access screws to remove the motor cover occasionally. I found a small, rectangular, aluminum cake pan that fits under the bedways and catches most of the oil, if not all the chips. The corner of the pan is just visible in the photo I posted up a couple of posts. A bucket vac from the home store with the hose extended with another from a junk vac makes short work of cleanup. A universal polycarbonate garden chemical hand pump spray bottle has been serving me as a solvent sprayer for years and the seals are still good, it's fantastic for flood-rinsing parts and if you use good solvent it will evaporate 100%.