How to secure a set screw?

[Mike W1]

Actually asked this question somewhere, some time back, and it was suggested to try a piece of copper wire in there to hold the sprue plate screw. Finally got around to it today and either I didn't use a big enough piece or it really doesn't work that well. I do tap my mold handle hinge pin to assist in freeing the bullets.

Any suggestions?

 

[Brad]

Mark where the set screw hits the sprue plate pivot screw. Remove the pivot screw. File a small flat on the pivot screw where the set screw hits it. That should keep things from moving.
Most of the time the set screw does not impact on threads so filing a flat doesn't harm anything.
I reserve the lead shot or hunk of wire for items when the set screw impinges on threads to prevent damage to the threads.

 

[Mike W1]

That could be my morning project. Thanks.

 

[RicinYakima]

What Brad said, even if it hits the threads it only needs to be in one place (just make sure it is the right one!).

 

[fiver]

run a nut up the bolt then file the flat, put some anti-seize on the bolt, then unscrew the nut.

 

[AMTom]

If the set screw has been slipping for a while, remove the pivot screw and you'll probably find that the threads, at point of contact with the set screw, are gone. The set screw needs a flat on the pivot screw to be effective. That flat happens when the set screw is first installed, buffer or not. The pivot screw's thread gets crushed a bit, making a flat. No threads, nothing to grip.
File a flat and then everything works fine. But clearly mark first where you want the flat!

 

[Ben]

Tom,

So good to have you on the forum.
My Accurate moulds are the " BEST " !!!!!!!!!!!!

Ben

 

[Mike W1]

Wanted to wait till I'd cast a few more to see if my "fix" worked. It did! Looking through the archives of another forum a fellow mentioned Lyman doesn't bottom tap that set screw. He hit that on the head. 5 Lyman molds and all 5 needed that little extra thread tapped so you can actually put a bit of pressure on the sprue plate bolt. That's probably what the lead or copper piece would accomplish I suppose. Don't know why it didn't occur to me as I remember drilling a bit deeper on a couple mods so the set screw would go clear into the hole. That was before you guys educated me on tap types. Didn't know there were more than 1 type prior to that. Thanks.

 

[waco]

My Accurate moulds are the " BEST " !!!!!!!!!!!!

I have to agree Tom. I like my NOE molds but my Accurate molds are on a different level. Top notch.
I don't even consider the big box names anymore. You guys make too good of product for a fair price with custom options to boot.
Why even chance it with the "other guys"?

 

[Mike W1]

As a much later followup I haven't had the heart/skill to file a flat but have since put a toothed washer in the hole and that seems to do the trick OK. Just widened out the center hole of the washer with an awl enough for the set screw to go in.