Improved bolt on my custom .358Win mauser

wquiles

Well-Known Member
Although I really like my custom .358Win mauser, I have always hated the bolt - specifically the bolt head. A couple of weeks ago, when myself and others got to shoot it with subsonic loads (my cast Lee 200gr PC load), everyone included myself had a hard time operating the bolt - not only that, but being it was so close to the scope and mounts, about 1/3 of the folks got cut/scraped while operating the bolt. Now that I am vacation, and had time to think, I decided to "fix" that bolt for good.

Before pictures:
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I browsed the internet on and off for several days looking at pictures to get ideas/inspiration, and then decided to call my mentor and long time friend for advice. He recommended oxy/acetylene to bend it and possibly remove the "ball". I settled on bending like he suggested, and then making a threaded stem to then manufacture a suitable bolt head.


I followed my mentors advice to setup the right tip on the gas welding torch, and had plenty of soaked rags to prevent over-heating the bolt body itself:
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Once at temperature, and by trial and error (3x tries on the rifle), I was able to get it bend "just right":
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I then took a bolt as a guide, and I ground down the ball until it was "close enough" to start threading by hand (using a tap):
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wquiles

Well-Known Member
I then using sandpaper, molded the stem until it was ready to tap. Yes, slow process, but worth it doing it right:
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Now I had to make a bolt head. Al, steel, or ..., why not Titanium? Found a rod of CP, and realized it was bent - oh man, that took a while between centers to get straight:
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Put on a new insert face before getting to the target diameter before knurling:
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Once straight, I looked at my Savage 308 police rifle with the large bolt for "inspiration":
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wquiles

Well-Known Member
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The bolt head's OD was right at .885"
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Using the online-calculator for knurling diameter gave me a target of .879"
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I got close enough, I think:
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Right about .878"-ish:
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wquiles

Well-Known Member
Then mounted my Dorian cut knurler and went to town:
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Yes, made this portion twice as long in case I messed up:
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Then the 2nd most hated part about working with Titanium - drilling
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and the #1 thing I hate the most about working with Titanium - threading:
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As always, so nice when things work out with threads:
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wquiles

Well-Known Member
Then started work shaping the bolt handle to make a "long" taper to clear the scope:
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I did it 3x times, at 20deg, then tried 10deg, and finally settled at 5deg. Once I had the right taper, I gave it some grooves:
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Then parting off:
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Mounted on the original bolt I used as a guide while grinding the stem, so that I can clean up the back side:
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Then finally tried it on the rifle bolt itself:
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Then on the rifle to make sure:
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wquiles

Well-Known Member
Then sandblasted the bolt - still with the original bluing left from 20 years ago:
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And gave it a couple of coats of thermally cured Molly Resin:
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And then using red threadlocker, threaded the new bolt head into the bolt, finished assembling the bolt, and put back on rifle:
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As expected, using/operating the bolt now is not only easy, but far from any sharp edges, while still having lots of clearance. Look forward to trying it out at the range soon :)

Will
 

Ian

Notorious member
Beautiful and meticulous work as always, Will.

Titanium is an excellent choice for a knob. Some of those Savage tacticool bolt handles require a strong arm just to lift the weight.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
You have inspired me!!

I have a Savage WSM I added a aftermarket bolt to some years back. While I like it I dont like how it hits my index fingers knuckle.

I need to remove it heat it red and tweak its bend. Unlike you I neednt need worry about heat as I can remove the handle to heat it.

I use the rifle exclusively for Coyotes aftwr the new year. So nows a good time to fix it up. Im gonna be reachin for it soon!!

Very Jealous of your abilities a d equipment. Good job!

CW