Ladles best not so secret
- Thread starter Roger Allen
- Start date
358156 hp
At large, whereabouts unknown.
I think bottom pour pots just don't put enough lead through the nozzle in most cases. My drilled out RCBS ladle can really dump lead when I want it too. I tried drilling out the BP nozzle in my MAG20 pot, but I find myself pulling away from trying to get really great flow through the nozzle. I think it might have something to do with not wanting to spill lead under the pot. I get brave as hell with the RCBS ladle, or sometimes even my #2 Rowell when I know the lead will just go back into the pot. I know it sounds silly in a way, but I do hate cleaning up lead spills on the bench, and I don't always feel like I'm in total control with BP.
Ian
Notorious member
Bottom pour furnaces tend to inject a stream under pressure, and that causes turbulence which can generate porosity in the castings if the operator doesn't manage the tendency through technique and flow adjustment. Ladles work of of a more natural flow rate and flood lots of volume without lots of pressure, but will still trap a bubble if you're not careful. Both systems work just fine and I think a person should master both, since developing one technique helps the other.
KeithB
Resident Half Fast Machinist
Since I don't cast any bullets over about 350 grs and I get good results using my BP furnace I've never felt the necessity of using a ladle. Probably should try it just for the experience. To each their own!
Of course you can't cast well with a BP if you let the nozzle get clogged up.
The biggest aid to my casting consistency was to instrument/PID control both the furnace AND the mold temperature. Use good clean alloy, hit the right temps, all comes out well.
Of course you can't cast well with a BP if you let the nozzle get clogged up.
The biggest aid to my casting consistency was to instrument/PID control both the furnace AND the mold temperature. Use good clean alloy, hit the right temps, all comes out well.
Ian
Notorious member
Pete, you know....
That controlled and rapid flood of metal gets the cavity full before any part of the casting begins to freeze. That way the dendrite structure will form evenly throughout the bullet and the bullet will shrink evenly as it cools, and further, the bullet will "flow" consistently when it is fired and resist un-even slumping and collapse when pushed to the plastic state.
If you cast so a big slash of alloy goes up the side of the nose, freezes, and then gets filled over as you dribble alloy in the rest of the way, the bullet will not have a homogenous structure. Of course the mould and sprue plate have to be kept at optimum temperature for any hope of consistency of structure to occur.
That controlled and rapid flood of metal gets the cavity full before any part of the casting begins to freeze. That way the dendrite structure will form evenly throughout the bullet and the bullet will shrink evenly as it cools, and further, the bullet will "flow" consistently when it is fired and resist un-even slumping and collapse when pushed to the plastic state.
If you cast so a big slash of alloy goes up the side of the nose, freezes, and then gets filled over as you dribble alloy in the rest of the way, the bullet will not have a homogenous structure. Of course the mould and sprue plate have to be kept at optimum temperature for any hope of consistency of structure to occur.
Roger Allen
Active Member
Or me drilling my ladle out just accomplished what I needed it to do.
Sometimes people can do mechanism maint on a switch gear in 3 days if they leave the mechanism in the cabinet....sometimes people need to remove that huge mechanism out of the cabinet and take it to a garage to get it done in 3 days.
I prefer to leave it in the cab but it's your mechanism maint job.
My ladle ended up working for me by drilling it out.
Sometimes people can do mechanism maint on a switch gear in 3 days if they leave the mechanism in the cabinet....sometimes people need to remove that huge mechanism out of the cabinet and take it to a garage to get it done in 3 days.
I prefer to leave it in the cab but it's your mechanism maint job.
My ladle ended up working for me by drilling it out.
Roger Allen
Active Member
Well the one I tore apart w my bud was a 80's era Siemens puffer breaker w a "SA7" mechanism
Roger Allen
Active Member
We use ge as well. We buy based off of duty rating/price.
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