Lessons with a scale

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freebullet

Guest
Well, uh, they're mostly all keepers for 9mm plinkers but, if it matters more than that is the test for each loading you make.

In other words -it only matters as much as it does.

Linking the pots could help maintain more consistent fill pressure. Mold temperature must stay consistent. If that isn't monitored it could be a contributor. With pid control your getting near the best bottom pour can offer.
 

300BLK

Well-Known Member
Good for you. And that helped this thread just how?????

As Rick was alluding too, more consistent weight during a casting session, and cleaner bullets. Introducing a ladle into the pot frequently ensures that the mixture remains stirred, but also requires more frequent fluxing. Casting with a ladle isn't necessarily slower either. I was using a 4 cavity NOE 311008 last week and running right at 400/hour, and my favorite single cavity Lee runs right at 180/hour. It IS my preference is to concentrate with a single mould, and I have a small fan on the bench to enhance cooling of the mould when it seems appropriate. I have also used wet sponges or towels to cool sprues or moulds.
 

Mike W1

Active Member
T----T
it's like this.
you can actually flip the plate around and it works either direction on the mold.
both screws have set screws in from the side of the mold to lock them in place.
you just run a wave washer on the swing/pivot screw.
the plate has a notch cut in it to swing in place under the back screw.

Is something on this order what you're describing? And of course the set screw to lock the 2nd one from
the side. Kind of what my Lyman DC sprue plate looks like from the top!
vlUdvjc.jpg
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
yep that's it.
if you take the time to set the two properly they will allow both a free swing and a locked down no moving plate that gives clean straight cuts.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
NOE, Accurate, and MP all use a similar style. Maybe they are onto something?
 

Ian

Notorious member
The MP moulds I've had had a roll pin on one corner, which has always been one of my biggest complaints about them. I fixed the only MP mould I kept with some hardware store parts and a couple of drills and taps. Buy and Accurate or NOE mould and this work is already done for you.

As for finding consistency in bottom pouring, once I figured out how to control temperature and flow, my bullets are as consistent as anyone has reported using a ladle. I also use a ladle, and prefer it for a couple of things, but have never found it indispensable. One caveat on the ladle: Don't waste your time on the Lyman jobbies, they hold too little metal, cool off too fast, and hold too little metal. Did I mention they don't hold enough metal? A 2# Rowel is the way to go or stick with a bottom pour of at least 20# capacity. If you can't use either tool to match-quality effect, it isn't the fault of the equipment, so I find the arguments of "Ladle always casts the best bullets" fairly invalid, depending of course upon the skill of the user.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
You are correct on MP Ian, I looked at the wrong mould.

I agree on ladles. Use a ladle, not a glorified spoon.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
IMO the Ladle is at it's best and is the best tool when you get up over about 400 grains in bullet weight.
now having said that.
I still use it in many instances.
pouring 22 cal cores is one place, and single cavity molds without venting [think Ideal] is another.
 

Mike W1

Active Member
Took some playtime today and modified a mould. Not a machinist by any stretch but drilled out the stop pin for the sprue plate and then drilled and tapped that for a 10:24 screw. Did a drill and tap (6:32) for the set screw and then made a new aluminum sprue plate of which I've come to favor. Seems to adjust pretty easily but will double check when it comes off the hot plate. I'm hoping this mod will alleviate the success rate difference on the 2 cavities but may not get that done if the sun shines tomorrow and dictates about 6+ acres get mowed. Wet as it is here I'm thinking I'll get to play in the shop. That long set screw on the front is for the thermocouple, just never bought a shorter one.
oNmNWib.jpg

tq8m6eB.jpg

uy6s51u.jpg
 
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Ian

Notorious member
Nice work, Mike. I really like those generous sprue wells and the thickness of the plate.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
That is a good looking modification. I like the plate and adding that screw can only help keep the plate flat.
 

Mike W1

Active Member
Mod looks promising! Cast a few last night and got much better results than I've had with the front cavity before. 91.5% were ± 1 grain of average weight. Extreme low was 1.56 grain below average and extreme high was 1.94 grain above average. Never had that good results with the front cavity before. Bottom pouring I can live with those results on a Lyman DC #452374 bullet. It's better than I can shoot! I strongly suspect if I could come up with an adjustable flow for a Lee 10# that might be a big help too but the only way would probably be to link the pots and I have a feeling that would get one into the area of lead supply not keeping up which is why I use a feeder pot in the first place. Have gone to not filling the pour pot as full as I used to nor emptying it as far down either which does help with the feel somewhat. But it's still easier to maintain a slower steady stream when the pots on the lower side of fill than it is with about 4 more pounds on top. Time will tell I guess. Don't really need any more bullets made up but will have to make a few small runs this summer just to see if results remain consistently better with the mod than before.
 

myg30

New Member
I found the best part of casting is if you don't like the results you can melt em down and start again. Time is important but your goal for quality vs quantity is important too.
I bottom pour, lee 20# pot. I find every mold has its own special requirements to cast quality boolits. The height of the mold vs spout, amount of flow from the spout, the lead temp., etc... For pistol boolits I cast em as best I can and as consistent I can. Cull out the odd heavy ones during the sizing, lube, inspection process. They all put holes in paper as expected and where they should. I'm not a competition shooter.
My rifle casts being mostly heavier weights then pistol, I try my best to keep a steady pace and consistency at casting. Cull out the odd balls same as pistol during lube sizing. Does it make any difference ? In my mind it does because I try to keep all my reloading process as constant as possible.
When asked at the range... hey .. what are you shooting ? What Ammo ? That's when my cast loads mean more to me than ever. Some don't believe cast can shoot as good as factory jacketed.
Last outing with my mini14 and ar15 the range guy asked me what Ammo I'm shooting. My own reloads with lead cast boolits ! WHAT .. ! LEAD boolits in .223 ???
Yup I smiled, he didn't think shooting lead was possible in .223
He had to load and shoot some to believe it himself in my rifle.
Did I just recruit a new caster ???? Funny how things can work out.
Mike
 

Mike W1

Active Member
Old thread I realize but did cast some the other day and am convinced it took care of my erractic bullets out of the front cavity. I'd probably do it again but sooner if I'd had a clue how well it'd work.