Lyman ( or any other ) mould tune up.

[Ben]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2plYcBUNcB2RXFuYXRvSmRqQUE/view?usp=sharing

 

[Brad]

Now those are instructions anyone could follow, even Bubba.

 

[RicinYakima]

Nicely done.

 

[Ian]

Pin it please.

 

[fiver]

I wonder how Ben feels about those lock washers.

nothing better than getting a mold nice and warmed up only to have the washer grab the hold down screw so it starts swinging back and forth with the plate and getting looser and looser.

 

[358156 hp]

Very nice Ben!

 

[Brad]

That post is now in tips and tricks for future reference.

Great write up Ben and the photos make it even better.

 

[Ben]

Many thanks Brad ! !
It is my hope that something in the article will be a help to a fellow caster.

Ben

 

[Canuck Bob]

Wow! Thanks very much.

 

[Kevin Stenberg]

Ben In one of the captions. You said to use 0000 steel wool to clean up any rust in the cavities. How do you get the wool into the cracks and crevassas, without removing excess material from the smaller diamaters of the mold ?

 

[Ben]

Kevin,

I have been known to take a long tuft of 0000 steel wool and stick as much as a can down into the mould cavity. I also pack it with a small wooden dowel.

I take the " tail " of the steel wool that protrudes from the mold cavity and chuck it in a slow speed variable drill.

Spin the steel wool slowly ( about 30 - 40 rpm ) . Stop and check your progress. It is my opinion ( on a steel mould ) that you will not change any of the dimensions of the mould if this is done slowly. Aluminum is very soft and you could change mould dimensions with this method on an aluminum mould.

If the corrosion doesn't come out with this method, it may be time to consider spinning a bullet with some very fine abrasive compound on it.

Ben

 

[Kevin Stenberg]

Thank you sir