longhunter
Member
I am wanting to add a little Lyno to my WW. What would be a good ratio?
Lyno ratio
- Thread starter longhunter
- Start date
longhunter
Member
Well I guess I opened up a can of worms.
I have some lino, not a ton of it and wanted to harden up my COWW and make a good casting aloy.
Im shooting mostly rifles theses days but this will be shot in hand guns as well.
I quench harden from the mold and don't have a problem with leading.
Thanks.
I have some lino, not a ton of it and wanted to harden up my COWW and make a good casting aloy.
Im shooting mostly rifles theses days but this will be shot in hand guns as well.
I quench harden from the mold and don't have a problem with leading.
Thanks.
Ian
Notorious member
No, you asked a question that is too vague to answer.
Most of the casters I know don't add anything to their alloy to make it cast better, they learn to cast good bullets with the alloy their system needs to work the best. If you don't know what alloy your guns need, we can make suggestions based on answers to the questions Rick has been asking.
KeithB
Resident Half Fast Machinist
Just my experience (and I won't compare anything I know about casting bullets to some of the experts here) but I found that using straight clip on WWs to make handgun bullets for standard velocity/pressure cartridges works fine. I don't cast for any rifle calibers so no help there. I found out that temperature control of both the furnace and the mold has made the biggest difference in casting good bullets. I agree the alloy has an effect and that sometimes a little 50/50 solder or lino can help make an alloy cast better.
The fit of the bullet to the gun and using an alloy appropriate to the pressure/velocity characteristics is the key. The best casters here know that and want to help you by encouraging you to define your parameters better.
The fit of the bullet to the gun and using an alloy appropriate to the pressure/velocity characteristics is the key. The best casters here know that and want to help you by encouraging you to define your parameters better.
fiver
Well-Known Member
not really a can of worms.
adding more stuff to an alloy can have more than one effect.
knowing what the end goal is would then make the results more predictable.
if you need another .0005 for better nose fitment.
or just want a little more hardness.
or if you want to lower the melt point of the alloy.
the answers would be different.
adding more stuff to an alloy can have more than one effect.
knowing what the end goal is would then make the results more predictable.
if you need another .0005 for better nose fitment.
or just want a little more hardness.
or if you want to lower the melt point of the alloy.
the answers would be different.
quicksylver
Well-Known Member
For rifles ..here's a suggestion 10#'s COWW - 1# Lino - 2 oz Pewter or Tin for fill out....(roughly 2-4-94)
This will give you a BNH of about 12.7 air cooling, it will also give you slightly larger bullets if you are using Lyman and other molds that were made for #2 alloy
It will work for plain base rifle bullets as well as gas checked ones....
Not saying it's the only alloy out there ..it's close to what I use in my mill surps (I like my bullets to drop at least .312)...
It's one way to use the Lino..
Another and better way is to mix it with straight lead...a much better use of it IMO...
10#'s Lead -5#'s Lino yields an alloy approximately the same as above air cooled 12.7 BNH - 1.3 - 4 - 94.7 again slightly more pewter or tin will help with the fill out..
BTW ..this alloy will cast easily...
It's not the only answer to your guestion, but one that will get you going..
How do they shoot ..OK.. here's a couple groups.. PLEASE NOTE SOME GUYS GET GROUPS LIKE THIS WITH ACCOWW + SOME TIN ADDED..as I said I like bigger bullets with bigger noses..
This will give you a BNH of about 12.7 air cooling, it will also give you slightly larger bullets if you are using Lyman and other molds that were made for #2 alloy
It will work for plain base rifle bullets as well as gas checked ones....
Not saying it's the only alloy out there ..it's close to what I use in my mill surps (I like my bullets to drop at least .312)...
It's one way to use the Lino..
Another and better way is to mix it with straight lead...a much better use of it IMO...
10#'s Lead -5#'s Lino yields an alloy approximately the same as above air cooled 12.7 BNH - 1.3 - 4 - 94.7 again slightly more pewter or tin will help with the fill out..
BTW ..this alloy will cast easily...
It's not the only answer to your guestion, but one that will get you going..
How do they shoot ..OK.. here's a couple groups.. PLEASE NOTE SOME GUYS GET GROUPS LIKE THIS WITH ACCOWW + SOME TIN ADDED..as I said I like bigger bullets with bigger noses..
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Not so much a can of worms as what is really needed. Quite possible depending on what your shooting to save the lino for something later on where it's addition would be put to better use. CWW +2% Sn all I use in top end magnum handgun and rifle to 2000 fps. The magnum handgun I heat treat, everything else is air cooled.
As for the original question "What is a good ratio". There is no one size fits all, it all depends on what your shooting and trying to accomplish.
.
As for the original question "What is a good ratio". There is no one size fits all, it all depends on what your shooting and trying to accomplish.
.
longhunter
Member
Happy Independence Day to all of you. Less we forget.
Thank you for all your answers.
It has given me a lot of info and to better think where I want to go with shooting cast.
I shoot a lot of Mil rifles. Springfields, I have a couple of Mausers and a M39 Finn. along with a Jungle carbine.
So a lot of my casting is for these rifles.
I also shoot a few hand guns. 1911 45 colt and 44mag/special 38 special.
Its good to be retired! ha
I would love to shoot groups like yours Quicksylver. Rick thank you for the input.
I keep looking for help in this journey of fine shooting.
Thanks again
Jon
i
Thank you for all your answers.
It has given me a lot of info and to better think where I want to go with shooting cast.
I shoot a lot of Mil rifles. Springfields, I have a couple of Mausers and a M39 Finn. along with a Jungle carbine.
So a lot of my casting is for these rifles.
I also shoot a few hand guns. 1911 45 colt and 44mag/special 38 special.
Its good to be retired! ha
I would love to shoot groups like yours Quicksylver. Rick thank you for the input.
I keep looking for help in this journey of fine shooting.
Thanks again
Jon
i
quicksylver
Well-Known Member
Jon...retirement or semi-retirement does afford the opportunity to catch up on those things we have put off in the past..
For rifles I too shoot primarily mil surps ..Springfields mostly..my "shooters" included 2 , '03 Springfields with four groove barrels , one has Lyman 48 rear sights and a Lyman 17 A front,
the other is scoped..2, 03 Springfields with two groove barrels again one with Lyman sights ,the other scoped..1,US 1917 with Parker Hale sights installed..of course I have the mandatory M1 Garand, I also have an early '03 (1926) sporter with Lyman sights and one original Smith Corona 03A3 with a 4 groove barrel..not to mention a 1936 Winchester Model 54 in 30-30 and my other commercial rifle a Remington Model 700 VS in .308...oh and a 1917 Winchester 94 full octagon in 30-30... with Lyman tang sights..the rest in the safe are "teasers" for trade at some point if and when something better comes along..
These rifles just love cast bullets..but not all love the same ones...or the same diameter bullets...or the same alloy for that matter, they all shine when fed their preferences even the "shot out" barreled ones.
Bullet diameters run from .310 to .313 with noses from .301 to .304..a crucial note here the nose size does not necessarily coincide with the bullet diameter...for example one may like a .310 bullet with a .304 nose..strange but true....just ask my M1 Garand..and then the 1917 will take a .313 but the nose better be around .300 or it won't chamber..or use a soft alloy so the nose will easily engrave..
So what does this have to do with alloy?..well adding Lino and or pewter/tin will allow you to "tweek" the size of the bullet to the guns preferences....and to the condition of the rifling ( shallow/deep)...cool uh...
So like the man said "no can of worms"...just no single answer..except maybe "too hard and/or too small of a diameter definitely won't get you anywhere...
So Keep 'em flying and enjoy !...Dan
For rifles I too shoot primarily mil surps ..Springfields mostly..my "shooters" included 2 , '03 Springfields with four groove barrels , one has Lyman 48 rear sights and a Lyman 17 A front,
the other is scoped..2, 03 Springfields with two groove barrels again one with Lyman sights ,the other scoped..1,US 1917 with Parker Hale sights installed..of course I have the mandatory M1 Garand, I also have an early '03 (1926) sporter with Lyman sights and one original Smith Corona 03A3 with a 4 groove barrel..not to mention a 1936 Winchester Model 54 in 30-30 and my other commercial rifle a Remington Model 700 VS in .308...oh and a 1917 Winchester 94 full octagon in 30-30... with Lyman tang sights..the rest in the safe are "teasers" for trade at some point if and when something better comes along..
These rifles just love cast bullets..but not all love the same ones...or the same diameter bullets...or the same alloy for that matter, they all shine when fed their preferences even the "shot out" barreled ones.
Bullet diameters run from .310 to .313 with noses from .301 to .304..a crucial note here the nose size does not necessarily coincide with the bullet diameter...for example one may like a .310 bullet with a .304 nose..strange but true....just ask my M1 Garand..and then the 1917 will take a .313 but the nose better be around .300 or it won't chamber..or use a soft alloy so the nose will easily engrave..
So what does this have to do with alloy?..well adding Lino and or pewter/tin will allow you to "tweek" the size of the bullet to the guns preferences....and to the condition of the rifling ( shallow/deep)...cool uh...
So like the man said "no can of worms"...just no single answer..except maybe "too hard and/or too small of a diameter definitely won't get you anywhere...
So Keep 'em flying and enjoy !...Dan
fiver
Well-Known Member
Dan hit on it pretty well.
I bought a mold for my 1917 and it hated the mold, my measurements showed the shape was correct but the rifle flat out didn't like it.
so I tried another mold I already had.
which was basically the same shape just it had a slightly fatter nose, a little more bearing length, and weighed about 30grs. less.
instant winner.
when I got my 03A3 I figured I would just shoot up the rest of the test batch of ammo from the 1917.
this would at least give me some fire-formed cases for the rifle and I could function check it before digging out the slugging and impact tools.
well,,,, those tools never got dug out.
they shot on top of the front sight at 100 yds and was holding groups in the 1 to 1-1/2" range just like they should have in the 1917.
I bought a mold for my 1917 and it hated the mold, my measurements showed the shape was correct but the rifle flat out didn't like it.
so I tried another mold I already had.
which was basically the same shape just it had a slightly fatter nose, a little more bearing length, and weighed about 30grs. less.
instant winner.
when I got my 03A3 I figured I would just shoot up the rest of the test batch of ammo from the 1917.
this would at least give me some fire-formed cases for the rifle and I could function check it before digging out the slugging and impact tools.
well,,,, those tools never got dug out.
they shot on top of the front sight at 100 yds and was holding groups in the 1 to 1-1/2" range just like they should have in the 1917.
longhunter
Member
Thanks Dan
You gave me a bunch of info in this one post.
I know my 311284 is a bore rider and shoots quite well. I am going to be measuring bullets a little closer now.
I will use your rules on Alloy and try to get some good lead made up.
Thanks again.