Pistolero
Well-Known Member
Ok, it is a simple tool, and I almost just scrapped the original thing, but I decided it was handy enough
to keep and make a handle for. Serious overkill, but I had fun and validated my knurling,
and extended it to a long part for the first time. Going to make a S&W revolver rebound
spring tool, next.
The original problem was a new to me very early Kimber 1911, a "Clackamas" gun, first year
of production, Custom Classic. It had been shot very little but I decided to tear it all the way
down to inspect it and check a few things, like extractor tension and set up the hammer and
sear properly. In any case, I tried to remove the firing pin stop, normally no big deal. This one
wouldn't move, even with a small screwdriver prying on the bottom rear of the sight
(it overhangs on this model). Hmm. never saw this before. After trying a 1/8" punch to
depress the FP and push down with my hand, quite hard, nothing. So, I went to the
lathe and turned a 5/16" rod down to make a tip which perfectly fits the FP stop, just the
correct length to depress the FP to release the stop. With the slide in a vise it took three
good hammer blows on the rod tool to drive the FP stop out of the slide.
That is way out
of line!
Turns out the FP stop was about .002 interference fit on thickness and about .008"
interference with the extractor cut, although alright on slide width (once the thickness
was filed down a hair) without the extractor. I deepend the extractor slot a bit, until it
was about flush, then fitted the width a hair. Now it all goes in and out smoothly. The extractor
was acting like an extremely strong leaf spring, jamming it in, plus the thickness
interference.
I was looking at the rod and almost just faced it back off. But I decided that it would be
a nice, quick tool for disassembling 1911s, which I do frequently for cleaning.
I decided to make a nice handle. I dug out my knurling size spreadsheet and .490 was
the first size under .500 stock I was using. So, I turned it down .010" and set up to knurl.
This was going to be the first time to knurl wider than the wheels, so I set up the automatic
feed to 96 TPI, started knurling.
Once I had the depth working and the piece well oiled, I engaged the feed lever and
watched. I made a video of the process, although you can barely see the feed rate. Once
I figure out how to post it, I may put it up.
The knurling turned out well, and I drilled and tapped - first time with my spiral point tap.
It really did make it easier. Still reserving judgement for after I tap some steel.
But, I had good results from parting off with a very thin parting tool I found in my stuff and
had to use a 1/4" tool bit as a spacer in the QCTP holder. I ran it at 70 rpm and it just cut great
and was stable all the way to breakoff. I set it up very accurately on center, had it as short
an overhang as possible, and the tip was slightly angled, left to right. It is only 1/16" thick
HS stock, with a slight taper to give clearance on the sides.
Here is the final result. I think it is a nice looking tool, although a bit of overkill, it will
make popping out the FP stop a breeze. I left the steel shank long in case I need to hit
it with a brass hammer some time for another recalcitrant FP stop.
to keep and make a handle for. Serious overkill, but I had fun and validated my knurling,
and extended it to a long part for the first time. Going to make a S&W revolver rebound
spring tool, next.
The original problem was a new to me very early Kimber 1911, a "Clackamas" gun, first year
of production, Custom Classic. It had been shot very little but I decided to tear it all the way
down to inspect it and check a few things, like extractor tension and set up the hammer and
sear properly. In any case, I tried to remove the firing pin stop, normally no big deal. This one
wouldn't move, even with a small screwdriver prying on the bottom rear of the sight
(it overhangs on this model). Hmm. never saw this before. After trying a 1/8" punch to
depress the FP and push down with my hand, quite hard, nothing. So, I went to the
lathe and turned a 5/16" rod down to make a tip which perfectly fits the FP stop, just the
correct length to depress the FP to release the stop. With the slide in a vise it took three
good hammer blows on the rod tool to drive the FP stop out of the slide.
That is way outof line!
Turns out the FP stop was about .002 interference fit on thickness and about .008"
interference with the extractor cut, although alright on slide width (once the thickness
was filed down a hair) without the extractor. I deepend the extractor slot a bit, until it
was about flush, then fitted the width a hair. Now it all goes in and out smoothly. The extractor
was acting like an extremely strong leaf spring, jamming it in, plus the thickness
interference.
I was looking at the rod and almost just faced it back off. But I decided that it would be
a nice, quick tool for disassembling 1911s, which I do frequently for cleaning.
I decided to make a nice handle. I dug out my knurling size spreadsheet and .490 was
the first size under .500 stock I was using. So, I turned it down .010" and set up to knurl.
This was going to be the first time to knurl wider than the wheels, so I set up the automatic
feed to 96 TPI, started knurling.
Once I had the depth working and the piece well oiled, I engaged the feed lever and
watched. I made a video of the process, although you can barely see the feed rate. Once
I figure out how to post it, I may put it up.
The knurling turned out well, and I drilled and tapped - first time with my spiral point tap.
It really did make it easier. Still reserving judgement for after I tap some steel.
But, I had good results from parting off with a very thin parting tool I found in my stuff and
had to use a 1/4" tool bit as a spacer in the QCTP holder. I ran it at 70 rpm and it just cut great
and was stable all the way to breakoff. I set it up very accurately on center, had it as short
an overhang as possible, and the tip was slightly angled, left to right. It is only 1/16" thick
HS stock, with a slight taper to give clearance on the sides.
Here is the final result. I think it is a nice looking tool, although a bit of overkill, it will
make popping out the FP stop a breeze. I left the steel shank long in case I need to hit
it with a brass hammer some time for another recalcitrant FP stop.
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