Need advice on a lawn mower

KeithB

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
If things go as planned I may soon end up owning 4.6 acres of gently rolling industrially zoned real estate. The property is basically rectangular with one corner cut off and is 320' wide and averages 633' deep. One rear corner (about 20% of the property) is in the local flood zone and also has a water/sewer easement so I can't build there anyway. It is all trees so there is no mowing there.

About 1/3 of the property is being used by a local to grow hay. I don't mind continuing this practice. And I/m going to put up a 26-2800 sq ft metal clad building for a shop. Throw in a little area for a gravel drive from the road to the shop and I will still have a LOT of lawn to mow.

Since nowadays I'm in the step thump category I'm sure not going to push or be dragged behind a walking mower.

Any suggestions on size, brand, etc for a mower? I don't plan to do anything with it besides mow, I'm not planning on digging trenches or scooping manure or anything like that. Would a riding mower be enough, or should I look for a small tractor? Never had to face this problem before so I'm hoping you guys with experience can help.

By the way, with 200+ yds downrange on the property and no other dwelling within 700 yds in that direction I will probably get back into archery. The property is in the heart of the city so no firearms but I'm sure I could get in some outdoor target practice with an airgun.
 
Gary

Gary

SE Kansas
Get a Zero Turn mower in the 18 - 25 hp size. Orchelins has a Snapper that size for $4995 in 25 hp. I am navigating on a Snapper ZTR that I bought new in 1995 and have only had routine maintenance and a couple of Quill bearings and belts. Very dependable and I mow about 3 acres.
 
shootnlead

shootnlead

Active Member
^^^^Good advice!

Zero-turn...all the way...and the only way.

Down here...Hustler zero's are king...that is what I have and it is about the best money that I have ever spent. Took me WAY TOO LONG to make the investment, have had it almost 10yrs now and I, very often, wonder why I waited so long before doing it. It was taking me almost 6hrs to cut my grass with the tractor style mower...the Hustler cut that to 2.5hrs...burns less than half the gas of the tractor style, per mowing and does not wear me out.
 
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Rick

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Absolutely zero turn. I've got a 48 inch cut 24 horse Husqvarna riding mower and it does a good job on 1 acre for 3 years now but lordy I wish I had gotten the zero turn.
 
JWFilips

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Exactly what We cut! (In the suburbs with rolling hills ) My son bought a Cub Cadet 22 hp 0 turn with the Yamaha engine!
48 " Very efficient!
 
oscarflytyer

oscarflytyer

Well-Known Member
1 1/3 acres and a big rider is BARELY enough. I would def endorse the big zero turn option, unless you have other uses for a tractor
 
F

freebullet

Guest
I run a 30-32" 10hp craftsman traditional rider on our 1/3acre city lot. It does just fine even when tall but, I'd go zero turn even for my small yard next time around.

If you can hire it done that would be best. I hate mowing even on a rider it just seems like such a waste of time.
 
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KeithB

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
Well, I'm hoping I can hire it done but I need a backup plan. Since it's in the city limits I can "garden" the property but otherwise I will have to keep it mowed. I never really liked cutting the grass.
 
JWFilips

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
We also Have a 20 HP Yanmar diesel tractor with 48" woods deck.......... Just too slow! ( does a nice job though)
 
Brad

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
A couple factors. One, the entire backyard and one side are wooded. No grass to mow. Other side has little grass and neighbor takes care of it when he does his side which is larger. Front has maybe 500 sq ft of grass. It is heavily shaded by a large tree and therefore grows slowly.
I wanted to remove all grass but wife didn't agree. That was when she decided to take over the mowing.
 
fiver

fiver

Well-Known Member
hay cutters can cut tall grass too.
we used to just let our pasture grow and have it cut and baled once a year.
there's a pretty good market for field grass,,, especially in the winter.
I'd talk to the guy running the alfalfa, he might cut and bale and haul it away for an even deal.
 
Pistolero

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
We have two mowing machines. The wife runs a Deere 425 with a belly mower, that has a 22hp (IIRC) two cyl water
cooled Kawasaki. Good motor. I run an old Great Dane Super Surfer stander zero turn. You may not want a stander with your foot,
but I prefer the stander, it keeps my back from a pounding that I get in the tractor, sitting. My knees take the shocks
like springs, seems better for me, but may not be for you. It had an 18 hp Kaw which I wore out, and replaced with a
brand new 20 hp Kaw with 1/3 more displacement, I think it will last better, although I got it pretty used and got 8
seasons out of it. We mow about 6-7 acres, lots of trees and two creeks running thru it, so need to maneuver. Zero
turn is better, but the JD425 has done real well. I added a hydraulic blade for winter, I have a 900 ft drive and
about 40x50 concrete pad to clear of snow. The blade is real good, a plus for the big yard tractor class of machine. The
GD is a real commercial class machine, will never wear out, just keep feeding it engines,
around a decade each, may eventually need pumps or hydromotors replaced, but they seem just fine now, and it is probably 15 yrs
old. Basic frame and wheels, mower deck are really just fine, running smoothly and reliably.

Bill
 
I

Intheshop

Banned
The zero turns are GREAT at mowing,pretty much useless for anything else.Only the end user can answer that question.

I will say,get water cooled engine over air cooled.....and a spin on oil filter....and a 4" angle grinder......and a good grease gun.....and if you plan on really running it hard,a nice 220 wire welder.
 
Pistolero

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
A lot of the lawn tractor and zero turns that I see have stamped steel sheet formed into a 3D
structure for the main frame. The JD425 has good big frame rails like a real tractor, structurally
solid. It also has a real clutched PTO shaft and shaft drive with slider and two Ujoints to a gearbox with
90 deg drive direction change to run the belly mower. Belt on the deck takes the power from the center
out to the three blades from the shaft/gearbox. My Super Surfer has the mower deck belt running directly
on the engine shaft with PTO clutch, vertical shaft motor. Simple and reliable. Look closely at how
the power gets to the mower deck, some use some pretty mickey mouse drive systems with
belts running in ways that look destined for short life. Super Surfer frame is folded 1/4 and 3/8 steel
sheet, welded and braced. Front frame is big square tubes. Real commercial structure.

Look hard at frame structure and drive train, both wheels and mower deck. The good stuff costs
about $8K and up, new. IMO, find a good used unit. We paid $4K for our 425 in excellent condition
with about 450 hrs on the motor. Is well over 1000 hrs now, running fine although I had to replace
a head when a spark plug blew out, then helicoil failed, too, as did a homemade steel insert I made. Finally
found a pair of used heads on eBay for $75 and that has held for two seasons. The upper end
JDs seem solid. I am less impressed with the real lawn tractor grade of any of them. Try for a
commercial grade machine, and look at used stuff. If you look hard at new surplus outlets a new
engine can be had for far less than the $1000-1500 that most replacement Kaw 20 hp range
motors are sold for. Replaced the worn out motor on the Super Surfer with one I picked up, new in box
from surplus outlet for just under $400, bolt on, perfect fit - although had to fiddle the oil
drain system a little bit, add some wiring for the starter system since original was pull start.

Depending on what your time is worth, a commercial unit with a high time engine can be a good deal
if you can find a new surplus motor. Not difficult to swap motors and a dealer
would charge $1500 for motor and $500 labor or more to swap. So, if you find a $500
surplus motor and swap yourself, big savings. But, you may be looking more to trade some
money for a 'no sweat' machine rather than sweat equity. I am leaning more in that second
direction as I get older.

If you have mostly open ground, a tractor type is fine, with lots of trees, the zero turns
come into their own. I still prefer the stander, and you might notice that a lot of commercial
mowing services still use standers. I think for long sessions it is easier on the back. You
have to decide on your foot situation, I imagine that it may be best to stay off of it. I have
a bad knee but somehow the stander doesn't affect it. Very individual preference.

Bill
 
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KeithB

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
Made offer an hour ago for property and just found out it was accepted so now I can get going with building plans. Talked to realtor about mowing issues. Property used to be horse farm and my realtor used to show horses and is familiar with horsey things. For example, there is a large round bare area where nothing grows, realtor says it was probably an arena with a different soil mixture than the surrounding area that was treated with something to kill vegetation. I thought it was trucked in dirt to fill a hole, I never would have thought it was a exercise/show arena for horses.

Apparently there is enough local demand for hay that she thought I could go to the local Farm Bureau Co-op and post a notice there. She thought it would be reasonable to let somebody farm it for the hay for free in return for mowing the rest. If I can get somebody else to mow the grass that would great, even if I had to buy a small walk-behind mower and a string trimmer to tend a little lawn around the building.
 
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