Noe 311299

[Roger Allen]

jist got my 2x 4 cavity molds!!!

Cleaned w a tooth brush and denatured alcohol so I'm pretty much ready now!!!

Prob should be in the mould section yikes!!!

Real nice quality again. It's hotter than I care to cast in but I gotta do it when I get a new one. Will make some and test in my chamber to find out if it will work

 

[Roger Allen]

Well i could do the heat cycling w the mold but bullets came out wrinkled bad.

No brake cleaner equals using alcohol to remove machine oil and not getting it all out.

Heat cycles needed to happen anyway.

 

[300BLK]

If you're experiencing wrinkled bullets from you aluminum NOE on the first session, its normal. Set it aside for a few days and try again. Once the cavities have some oxidation in them, it will cast beautifully. I never smoke cavities or use mold prep, mold drop-out or anything else. If cleaning is necessary (always with a new mould) I use Dawn dishwashing liquid, hot water, and a toothbrush.

 

[Roger Allen]

Yeah you know your right about wrinkles. Every noe mold I ever got wrinkled bullets first one or two cast. I normally clean them w denatured and cast about 100 bullets and give up then try again later and they are way better.

My last noe mold I used/bought was the 360-200 fn. I cast on a Friday and was like ehh these are ok...Saturday I was like wow these are great! Took Fridays bullets and melted them down and remade on Sunday. I'll clean w brake clean tonight and try again.

My wife said she'd help me make 20-40 lbs

 

[Kevin Stenberg]

Roger you can speed up the surface cure on the molds. By putting the molds on the stove top heating elements heating the blocks to close to casting temp. and letting them cool slowly to room temp. I do this 3 times. And between heatings when cool enough. I clean all surfaces on the mold with regular dish soap and a toothbrush.
If you try this method it is important to not have the mold faces close together. You want air to get at all surfaces.

 

[Brad]

I just cast thru it. I have never done the heat cycling other than thru normal casting procedures. My newer NOE moulds didn't seem to be the problem children my early NOE moulds were. Those early moulds were a pain for a few sessions then just fine. The last couple I got were good right off.

 

[Roger Allen]

Yeah my first noe mold (50 cal 4 cavity) did great right off the batt after cleaning once and no heat cycle.

Second noe was a 311-198 couldn't get a good nose w out a bubble of lead missing til my second pot.

Third Noe and my fourth and my fifth required some sort of clean, heat up, reclean and recast

Not to make a science out of it but maybe the oil migrated from part of the mold I didn't clean good and the lead acted like flux chasing into solder. Just a guess. I'll prob do the dish detergent since that's gentle and water. Heat it up and use it tonight.

 

[quicksylver]

Well .. to each his own ..this is how I treated my last 12-14 al molds...

Took them out of the box and wowed over them...

Then scrubbed them with a tooth brush and Dawn (Blue) in hot water, dried them off with a paper towel, installed the handles, ran them through 3 (three) heat cycles on a hot plate while I was waiting for the pot to heat up..

Once the alloy was up to tempt and fluxed...I LIGHTLY smoked the cavities with a propane lighter (if you don't do this the first couple of sessions you WILL get wrinkles) and started casting , I've gotten beautiful keepers from the get go..no waiting...ditto for molds from Tom at Accurate...

OH and don't forget the sprue plate lube ...(might want some on the screws that attach the mold to the handle as well)...a little bottle of 2 cycle oil from your local whatever will do for some time..
I apply mine sparingly with a Q-tip to the underside of the plate when it's hot.....

That's a great bullet and mold you're going to enjoy it a lot...Dan

 

[RBHarter]

I didn't follow the wash , heat/cool , heat/cool ,heat/cool on the first NOE , 287-150 hunter ........ I ran 3/5 and 1 of those wrinkled for enough runs I was about to sell it off . The last time I got it out 5/5 with 2 throw back casts and about 5 rejects of 150 or so bullets .

The last 3 moulds 454424 copy, 358-228 and 225-37 wash , cycle , pre heat , pour good bullets . The 225 37 is a little particular about staying hot but not bad once I found the groove . I try to order them so they come in on work nights , that way I don't get in a hurry and skip the steps .

 

[Roger Allen]

I'll wash w detergent and brush and try the lighter trick.

Thanks guys

 

[quicksylver]

PS...with that bullet design and others with along nose you might get a "smile" on the side of the nose... if it starts to happen (if at all) knock of the little drip that remains in the spout of the pot...you know that little silver thread that hangs down sometimes....

 

[Roger Allen]

I ladle pour by chance

 

[Roger Allen]

Went w the advice of wash w dial detergent and toothbrush, heat cycle and cast

Very happy w my results.

These prob cannot be powder coated as the body dia is .302 w all five of my tested bullets see Picts for details

Note rifling engagement of the nose body when seated to the crimp groove (assembled cartridge fits just fine...bolt closes perfectly thank god)

 

[JWFilips]

Well .. to each his own ..this is how I treated my last 12-14 al molds...

Took them out of the box and wowed over them...

Then scrubbed them with a tooth brush and Dawn (Blue) in hot water, dried them off with a paper towel, installed the handles, ran them through 3 (three) heat cycles on a hot plate while I was waiting for the pot to heat up..

Once the alloy was up to tempt and fluxed...I LIGHTLY smoked the cavities with a propane lighter (if you don't do this the first couple of sessions you WILL get wrinkles) and started casting , I've gotten beautiful keepers from the get go..no waiting...ditto for molds from Tom at Accurate...

OH and don't forget the sprue plate lube ...(might want some on the screws that attach the mold to the handle as well)...a little bottle of 2 cycle oil from your local whatever will do for some time..
I apply mine sparingly with a Q-tip to the underside of the plate when it's hot.....

That's a great bullet and mold you're going to enjoy it a lot...Dan

Well this is spot on to what I do and seldom have issues (including the "wowwing!"

 

[quicksylver]

"Note rifling engagement of the nose body when seated to the crimp groove (assembled cartridge fits just fine...bolt closes perfectly thank god)"

Looks like you're off to a fairly good start...

That bullet BTW doesn't have a CRIMP GROVE...if you need to you can seat the bullet deeper unless you are concerned about the base being below the base of the neck..that bullet being of a plain base design doing so should be fine.....

From what I can see in the photo it doesn't look like you've got lube in the upper groove...that may or may not help...but I'd put it in there...

 

[KHornet]

Have always followed Al's direction, and have had no problems.

Paul

 

[Roger Allen]

Yeah, your right about the crimp groove being a lube groove teehee. I use it as a superficial crimp location like a base line location for final seat.

Your correct in saying and I didn't think about it either as I could prob bring the bullet down a touch more past that lube groove, powder coat potentially or just consider the fact I'll never have to worry about a renegade bullet that troubles my feeding.

I got some pondering to do about my seat depth (I'll prob look into how much space my powder occupies and then evaluate my seat depth).

I have no lube on this bullet in particular . It was kind of a rush job from making the 20 lbs of bullet or so to making a dummy round to try so it's as naked as the day the thought of using this mold was concieved. If I use lube it will prob be a 40-40-10 alox jpw mineral spirt mix.

My alloy I believe is 50-50 ww and range lead.

 

[Roger Allen]

Just looked into how much of the bullet will be in the casing

311198 sp (fav bullet right now) .542
Seated to its actual crimp groove (not a lube groove haha)

vs

311299 rn(my new prospect) .435 (seated just foward it's front drive band and I can give back the lube groove)

Looks like there will be no conflict w bullet seated to deep to interfere w powder to bullet spacing

 

[Roger Allen]

Went ahead and loaded up tonight

Rcbs full length sized brass
Noe 311299 202 gr rn (210 avg gr)
2x coated 45-45-10 lube

9.0, 9.2, and 9.4 gr h110 federal primers small rifle

 

[300BLK]

Are those going in an AR or something else?