oscarflytyer
Well-Known Member
Good Luck. Neither HD or Lowes had it when I looked. HD was supposed to get some in a few weeks. But apparently only in gallon form now.
Old Craftsman Benchtop Drill Press
- Thread starter Gary
- Start date
Good Luck. Neither HD or Lowes had it when I looked. HD was supposed to get some in a few weeks. But apparently only in gallon form now.
Gary,in no way am trying to advise you on a finish "schedule".You need to figure out how you want to proceed.There's a dz ways to approach just about any finish,be it gun stocks,automotive,or equipment.
Just some general ramblings from decades of painting equipment.
Most...say 90% of old equipment never saw a lick of "primer".It's direct to metal enamel.Hardeners (catalysers) started showing up after WWII.But not everyone used them...
One thing that most manufacturers did and it works today just as well is.....preheat on the part.Metal is cold.Take a pce of CI(cast iron) that's in your 70* shop,and shoot it with a temp gun.Also,notice the difference in temp your shop is with a shot at the floor,then your workbench,now the ceiling.
Heating the part to the upper end of the paints "window" is where it will perform the best.How you achieve that is up to you.But remember the part is going to start cooling as fast as the heat is removed,so be ready.
Attic,your wife's car with the windows rolled up in August,cheap big pancake griddle,small closet with lamps....all will get it done.The paint can be brought up to temp,CAREFULLY in a pot of water on a griddle.
The griddle is really nice.....can be used for bullet moulds and sprues.We take pipe clamp mounted vertical,with another one clamped to it,going horizontally.Using S shaped hooks(fashioned from coat hangars),and suspend the parts a foot or so above the electric griddle,pre and post heat.
Heck,90% of our CI welding is done right ON the griddle.Pre heat part,ramping up over an hr or so to get it up to about 500...weld the pos,then ramp down over a cpl hrs.Start looking for a griddle or two at yard sales,the bigger the better.Get a cpl.
When matching paint,we just look under or at any easy to remove unfaded part...take it to Sherwin Williams or Ben Moore and get them to scan it.We use both of their top of the line enamels with a shot of Isocynate(kill you dead)hardener.No real reason to spend more because the factory sure as heck wasn't using anything better.
Be careful with "fillers" on raw castings.Factory rarely used them.....and when they did it was this black goo that is asphalt based.But way more often than not,they shot extremely heavy coats of warmed up enamel to fill pinholes/flaws.It dries pretty durn quick when hot.
From a restoration standpoint,these are not "perfect" paint jobs from the factory.Orange peel was/is a desirable trait.The pebble is what gives protection from scratches.Just sayin,it's somewhat incorrect to try to get a perfect finish on these pcs.It isn't a car.
Good luck and thanks for sharing pics!
BW
Just some general ramblings from decades of painting equipment.
Most...say 90% of old equipment never saw a lick of "primer".It's direct to metal enamel.Hardeners (catalysers) started showing up after WWII.But not everyone used them...
One thing that most manufacturers did and it works today just as well is.....preheat on the part.Metal is cold.Take a pce of CI(cast iron) that's in your 70* shop,and shoot it with a temp gun.Also,notice the difference in temp your shop is with a shot at the floor,then your workbench,now the ceiling.
Heating the part to the upper end of the paints "window" is where it will perform the best.How you achieve that is up to you.But remember the part is going to start cooling as fast as the heat is removed,so be ready.
Attic,your wife's car with the windows rolled up in August,cheap big pancake griddle,small closet with lamps....all will get it done.The paint can be brought up to temp,CAREFULLY in a pot of water on a griddle.
The griddle is really nice.....can be used for bullet moulds and sprues.We take pipe clamp mounted vertical,with another one clamped to it,going horizontally.Using S shaped hooks(fashioned from coat hangars),and suspend the parts a foot or so above the electric griddle,pre and post heat.
Heck,90% of our CI welding is done right ON the griddle.Pre heat part,ramping up over an hr or so to get it up to about 500...weld the pos,then ramp down over a cpl hrs.Start looking for a griddle or two at yard sales,the bigger the better.Get a cpl.
When matching paint,we just look under or at any easy to remove unfaded part...take it to Sherwin Williams or Ben Moore and get them to scan it.We use both of their top of the line enamels with a shot of Isocynate(kill you dead)hardener.No real reason to spend more because the factory sure as heck wasn't using anything better.
Be careful with "fillers" on raw castings.Factory rarely used them.....and when they did it was this black goo that is asphalt based.But way more often than not,they shot extremely heavy coats of warmed up enamel to fill pinholes/flaws.It dries pretty durn quick when hot.
From a restoration standpoint,these are not "perfect" paint jobs from the factory.Orange peel was/is a desirable trait.The pebble is what gives protection from scratches.Just sayin,it's somewhat incorrect to try to get a perfect finish on these pcs.It isn't a car.
Good luck and thanks for sharing pics!
BW
Gary
SE Kansas
Good advice, thanks. Well, I got her taken down and it was actually quite easy. Very simple machine with few parts. I'm not so sure I want to strip and repaint, after all, I'm looking for a working machine not a show piece or a flip machine. In taking the tube off the other parts, I encountered some surface rust which will be an easy fix but the table has me a little concerned. It appears to have a small crack in the cast along one of the long slits. I saw somewhere that to stop a crack in a piece of iron, that one should drill through the apex of the crack (actually just above) and that would stop the crack from spreading. I don't know if that's the case or not, I'll research it thoroughly before attempting that maneuver. Motor appears to be OEM, has a Craftsman label. Here's a couple of pics:
Attachments
Ian
Notorious member
Friend of mine has what looks like a museum of painstakingly and accurately restored antique shop equipment, not me, I use my stuff and it gets dirty and worn. The big chunks get raked off once in a while, only stuff that gets spit-shined is woodworking machine tables, those get waxed before and after every use.
Don't sweat the crack, I don't even see it in the pic. Probably from someone getting horsey with bolts holding down a milling vise or foot clamp. Use a square of 1/4" plate with hole in middle as a backup washer if you do same in area of crack. Chemical de-rusting the crack, blow dry, and JB Weld may keep if from propagating if you don't overstress it again.
Don't sweat the crack, I don't even see it in the pic. Probably from someone getting horsey with bolts holding down a milling vise or foot clamp. Use a square of 1/4" plate with hole in middle as a backup washer if you do same in area of crack. Chemical de-rusting the crack, blow dry, and JB Weld may keep if from propagating if you don't overstress it again.
Couple VG reasons for having "clean" paint on equipment.Generally,anything that's getting sloshed with coolant and cutting fluids is kind of a waste of time....but even then,there are exceptions.
Nope,one aspect of snagging classic old iron at bttm feeder prices is the,more often than not.....previous duffus let his 7 y.o. brush paint it with leftover porch paint.
Don't know about ya'll but,I have certain levels of tolerance for having a pce of equipment,"looking the part".
Nope,one aspect of snagging classic old iron at bttm feeder prices is the,more often than not.....previous duffus let his 7 y.o. brush paint it with leftover porch paint.
Don't know about ya'll but,I have certain levels of tolerance for having a pce of equipment,"looking the part".
Ian
Notorious member
Nope, not kidding. Wear a particle mask. 5K cfm blower on 8" steel duct pipe with a box shroud closed on 5 sides wasn't enough to keep a 12" compound miter from dusting the whole works at the cabinet shop that used to sign my checks, so I don't even try at home, I don't even have a shop vac hooked up to it. It's just nuisance dust anyway, I don't work with toxic stuff.
RBHarter
West Central AR
I know this old plumber pipe fitter turned A&P painter . He used to quip " yea that dangerous lead based paint will kill you in 20-30 yrs but this nice safe polyurethane requires positive pressure to use and a respirator to open the can ".
It's not the wood it's the glue that'll get you . As much as I hate all the BS California has generated I don't have the post plywood cutting party cough and sinus issues I used to have , so there is some good ........
It's not the wood it's the glue that'll get you . As much as I hate all the BS California has generated I don't have the post plywood cutting party cough and sinus issues I used to have , so there is some good ........
OK,I'm gonna go as "positive" flow as possible with this,completely tangent response.
Something as seemingly simple as a reducer in a DC system.Lets say the noob is looking to transition his chickenpoop PVC duct from a 4-6".First off,you're using f'n drain pipe which it's flow is pretty much,NOT what we're trying to accomplish here.That reducer is about 20% effective.A proper DC transition needs to be at least 6-1 on its length.And 10-1 is that much better.
Next up is gravity....meaning a "centered" transition may be ok for HVAC folks but we're transferring chips and particulate.So by rolling your own SHEET METAL transitions,not only do you get to extend the aspect ratio,but it's offset in considering the weight of the particulate.Meaning,most of the transition is at the top of the duct.Yes,laminar flow enters,and we can get all mathematically correct but come on,think about it......the particulate is traveling in the bttm 60% of the duct.
Looked at from a hillbilly standpoint,when you(because the designer is an idjit)gets a "clog",is it on the top or bttm of the duct?Obviously on the bttm....so,when you roll a transition,offset it so the floor is smooth,having the change of diameter at the top.
Look at a typical CNC machine ,enclosure....for guidance in that....they're creating a "room" for the nasty's.Ideally introducing make up air,which needs to be adj...to balance the environment/flow...but it is an enclosure.
Respirators are 3rd level protection,at best.Get a positive flow of air,first and foremost.But don't settle (HA) for having the downstream just "dumping" VOC's.Instead,have the exhaust side drive or help the system.
Something as seemingly simple as a reducer in a DC system.Lets say the noob is looking to transition his chickenpoop PVC duct from a 4-6".First off,you're using f'n drain pipe which it's flow is pretty much,NOT what we're trying to accomplish here.That reducer is about 20% effective.A proper DC transition needs to be at least 6-1 on its length.And 10-1 is that much better.
Next up is gravity....meaning a "centered" transition may be ok for HVAC folks but we're transferring chips and particulate.So by rolling your own SHEET METAL transitions,not only do you get to extend the aspect ratio,but it's offset in considering the weight of the particulate.Meaning,most of the transition is at the top of the duct.Yes,laminar flow enters,and we can get all mathematically correct but come on,think about it......the particulate is traveling in the bttm 60% of the duct.
Looked at from a hillbilly standpoint,when you(because the designer is an idjit)gets a "clog",is it on the top or bttm of the duct?Obviously on the bttm....so,when you roll a transition,offset it so the floor is smooth,having the change of diameter at the top.
Look at a typical CNC machine ,enclosure....for guidance in that....they're creating a "room" for the nasty's.Ideally introducing make up air,which needs to be adj...to balance the environment/flow...but it is an enclosure.
Respirators are 3rd level protection,at best.Get a positive flow of air,first and foremost.But don't settle (HA) for having the downstream just "dumping" VOC's.Instead,have the exhaust side drive or help the system.