Powder coat varieties

Hawk

Well-Known Member
I've seen a lot of recipes with 800-X. The problem seems to be it is too bulky, does not meter well, so each charge must be weighed when loading high end loads.

I carry the 10MM on the deer lease, because they have reintroduced black bears to that part of the country and I'm retired and often on the lease alone.

Due to medication I take, I can't afford to be racked by a bear. Got to either scare them off or stop them quick, so I carry pretty high end loads.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
What we need is a long term test. Load ammo like 45 ACP with new, factory fresh, single lot cases. Use a couple types of powder coat. Load with Titegroup as it seems to be a prime offender for attacking some powder coats.
Load enough ammo for firing 10 rounds at time zero, at monthly intervals for 6 months, then annually for a few years. By shooting 10 rounds we can eliminate some variation in velocity round to round. Compare average velocity and extreme spread to see if any degradation of powder seems to occur.

Like so many of these studies it is the time frame that makes it difficult to follow thru on.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
OK I did a terrible thing in my "Book" and PC coated for the first time for my impossible 1916 Spanish Mauser which is really a 7.45 MM caliber.
My home brew .297" plain base was totally lead coating the bore in plain base with a FPS of about 1000 fps.
Bought some HF red and winged it and got the dang thing to shoot accurate and clean....but with globby bullets I had other issues.
First off I'm using HF PC which is Epoxy! But it is cheap & it works great ....just got to get it coated more even on the bore riding noses so my bullets will load without being off center!
Dang I live in an area where Airstoft is forbidden! So I'm winging it. I know I'm cheap so I'm not mail ordering Airsoft BB's
Have been now using poyprop chips cut from containers. Plenty of static.
Do I shake off excess powder and drop on parchment paper or do I have to stand them up like soldiers?
 

gman

Well-Known Member
JW,
You would probably be okay laying them down since your shooting them slow. I have to stand any bullet I PC because I'm anal that way! If the bullets touch each other it leaves bare spots. Drives me nuts!
 

waco

Springfield, Oregon
Standing them up will give better all around coverage. Smoke on the other site sells great powder and air soft bb's for cheap. I have pulled them from the powder with tweezers and tapped off the excess powder with good results. A much faster way that works just as good is to wear a blue Nitrile glove and just pick them up, roll the bullet between your fingers to knock off the extra power then stand them up on your tray.
 

Ian

Notorious member
I never thought about PP chips, but it ought to work great.

I grab the bullets with skinny nodlenese pliers and tappy tap tap the plier tongs downward on the top edge of the container, and set on their bases.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
I dump mine from the shaking cup into a little metal pan I drilled holes in the bottom.
this lets the excess powder and BB's fall through into a catch bowl.
I then dump the coated bullets into another tray.
[I do all of this pretty gently]

I pick them out by hand wearing a pair of nitrile gloves and stand them up on a tray covered with parchment paper.
for the tall ones I'm using a piece of hardware cloth bent down and out to fit the trays.
this keeps the tall ones from falling over. [sometimes I get a little line on the nose]
I don't use it for the short stubby ones.
 

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
I use the BBs because they seem to help keep a more uniform coating on the bullets, at least most of the excess powder is peened fairly uniformly to the surface. I bake on non-stick baking mats now. As far as quality of coverage goes, it's hard to beat smokes clear powder. It does leave you with shiny bullets, but they look right. I also use nitrile gloves, and drop the coated bullets about 1/4 inch or so on a piece of hard plastic to knock off any stubborn excess before baking.
 

RKJ

Active Member
I've used the blue & yellow BB's that you can buy at any sporting goods store and had good results with HF red and decent with their black. I started using Smokes Signal blue & Jet black with and without the BB's and find I get consistent coverage either way. I've pretty much quit using them for my PC'ing. I've also quit using the HF powder as it doesn't do as well as the powder from Smoke.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Not sure how much I will pursue this because I really have no need to bring this into my normal cast bullet reloading ( Only did this to satiate this old over worn sewer pipe bore mauser and it appears that it helps) I will run a new batch and stand them up this weekend. I actually did that on my first attempt but got "flow skirts" on the bases so I guess I did not tap off all of the excess powder.
that is why on my second batch i layed them down
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
the glove thing helps that too much issue.
I pick mine up and give them a little twist between thumb and fore finger.
this seems to give me a better [more even] coat.
I think the tap Ian uses does the same thing as my rolling them into the pan it gets the powder [chunks] out of the lube grooves.
 

Ian

Notorious member
The only problem I have is when I put too much powder in the container and get powder clumps adhered to the bullets in spots about the size of the end of a toothpick. Those spots melt and flow in when the bullets are heated, but can leave little bumps which can be an issue on the noses sometimes. Gloves work great if you pinch and rub powder between thumb and forefinger to coat them well before touching the bullets.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Well I did my third batch last night and I have to say ( unfortunately from a tradionalist perspective:rolleyes: ) I'm getting pretty good at it! I got nice bases and a nice even coating wIth nice clean grooves......and no clumping. Thanks to reading the recent post here ( much easier to understand here then reading in other places on the net )!
Ian, yes those little tiny spots that don't seem to blend in I have also....
Will try to use less powder next time ( I have one more batch of those "7.5 Mauser " bullets left to coat. I may try the nitrile glove idea too.
This may just be the ticket to get my two old wore out and rough mausers ( @ 7.5 & 8.5 mm's) to shoot reliably
 

popper

Well-Known Member
Been using HF red & white, 4895, 335, 231, 296, levereE that are several years old, no problem. Some of Smokes gloss black with 296, no problem, only ~ 8 mo old. All ESPC & all stood up. Been testing DT this week with varying temp/humidity. Got ~ 5-600 to coat, all H.T.d prior to coating (some are BLLd). Conclusions so far, preheat to dry naked ones, keep powder dry as possible, use as little as possible (easier to keep dry) and for me, wear gloves when shaking. Don't know why the gloves work but I know my skin conductivity is quite high. Oh, I use hemostats to pick up & place on hot plate. No domino problem. Just turn it to high for an hour and dump in cold water. Hint for new gus trying - don't forget to wash bowl with Dawn & hot water - before using first time.
 

Reloader762

Active Member
I do my coating usually outside in my building but sometimes I have to do it in the house if the humidity is too high an bake on the back porch, I like the humidity to be around 40% or lower as it helps create static when the air is dry.

I start off with a container like this one, as I've found it works the best for me. They are just recycled #5 plastic containers and lids that we get takeout in from the Chinese restaurant, or you can just pick some up at the restaurant for about a quarter each.

UIOcZfm.jpg

I filled the container about 1" deep with these plastic beads, you can get these at any Walmart or craft store cheap. You can wash them off and reuse again and again if you want to switch colors, or just buy enough for all your tubes.

44 - xG3GprZ.jpg

I put about a 1/2 tsp of powder in with the beads and shake it up for about 30 seconds to get everything mixed well, you may need to add more powder, but I only add about half as much 1/4 tsp as too much can make the powder clump on the bullets, you just want a fine coat. As you can see, the powder is already clinging to the plastic bowl.

47 - QhiBSUa - Signal Blue PC in bowl.jpg

I hold the container like this in my hand and swirl everything around for about a minute, sometimes less. Once coated, I stand them up on the base on parchment paper and bake them for 20 min. at 400 degrees.

50 - gTFahNj.jpg

And if all goes well, I end up with this, which it usually does. Powders that I get excellent coverage with are Smoke Yellow Green, Traffic Purple, Carolina Blue, Clear Coat, I also like Eastwood's Maroon Red and Medium Green.

45 - WOVOFd2.jpg
 
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358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
I've been putting the gaschecks on before coating. I discovered by accident that the powder usually creeps in between the bullet & the check, making the installation somewhat permanent.

358156hp, hmmm? It seems like I've heard of those somewhere before.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
But those are imposters. That is the NOE version. I bet you prefer the "real" 358156 HP
 

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
But those are imposters. That is the NOE version. I bet you prefer the "real" 358156 HP

I've always believed that the original 358156HP was "Ideal" :D.

A pic of dinnertime at the Keiths, when the Thompsons come to visit.
38hp.jpg