Roger Allen
Active Member
Do these just split by nature or is there a way to prevent this madness???
Thinking future tense of getting one
Thinking future tense of getting one
Savage 99 stock splits
- Thread starter Roger Allen
- Start date
Ian
Notorious member
Are you referring to the chip behind the tang? I've been researching this, too.
The draw bolt fastens to the bottom receiver tang, almost in-line with the receiver, so recoil forces tend to compress the top tang into the top of the stock. Due to the shape of the stock and common layout of the grain in the upper tang area, the forces tend to pop out a chip. My suspicion is that careful skim bedding of both tangs and the side slabs of the stock at the front edge would equalize recoil force, stabilize the flex/compression when firing, and prevent the chipping.
The draw bolt fastens to the bottom receiver tang, almost in-line with the receiver, so recoil forces tend to compress the top tang into the top of the stock. Due to the shape of the stock and common layout of the grain in the upper tang area, the forces tend to pop out a chip. My suspicion is that careful skim bedding of both tangs and the side slabs of the stock at the front edge would equalize recoil force, stabilize the flex/compression when firing, and prevent the chipping.
fiver
Well-Known Member
funny how a lot of guns have a similar issue.
rem 3200's like to take a nick out of the stock on the bottom edge right next to the trigger.
model 120's like to take a chunk out of the toe right at the bottom 1/2" of the stock quite often without even breaking the plastic butt plate.
some split the stock right behind the top tang, I think those ones need a sleeve bedded in the action around the through bolt.
usually they have a little tab of metal for the screw to come up and tighten into and that little tab rocks back and forth splitting the grain apart like a wedge.
a little bedding around the tab and some around the tang along with sleeving the through screw usually stops the movement.
rem 3200's like to take a nick out of the stock on the bottom edge right next to the trigger.
model 120's like to take a chunk out of the toe right at the bottom 1/2" of the stock quite often without even breaking the plastic butt plate.
some split the stock right behind the top tang, I think those ones need a sleeve bedded in the action around the through bolt.
usually they have a little tab of metal for the screw to come up and tighten into and that little tab rocks back and forth splitting the grain apart like a wedge.
a little bedding around the tab and some around the tang along with sleeving the through screw usually stops the movement.
RicinYakima
High Steppes of Eastern Washington
I do exactly what Ian states, except if a used stock I dry all of the cleaning solvent and oil out of the wood, drill 0. 100" shallow holes into the wood, then skim coat it. The little fingers of bedding compound help hold the wood on the ears together.
oscarflytyer
Well-Known Member
basically glass bed the butt stock around the tang. Forget where I saw it. Go just inside the inside the stock match line with the tang, relieve some wood (ie - make a small inletted channel) and acraglas it. It gives the tang a solid bed to recoil against, hopefully eliminating the split.
can't find it specifically for the 99 in McPherson's Accurizing the Factory Rifle, but it does discuss it. And I have seen it discussed elsewhere on the interweb, but danged if I can find it tonight...
ps: MIGHT be in one of my pdf Rifle magazines. There is a gunsmith article each month. If you want me to go thru them and check, let me know.
can't find it specifically for the 99 in McPherson's Accurizing the Factory Rifle, but it does discuss it. And I have seen it discussed elsewhere on the interweb, but danged if I can find it tonight...
ps: MIGHT be in one of my pdf Rifle magazines. There is a gunsmith article each month. If you want me to go thru them and check, let me know.
earlmck
Member
That's how you know it is an authentic Savage 1899 -- either a chip out back of the tang or a split coming back from the receiver at the side. Or both if it is really authentic. I have done a couple like I believe oscarflytyer is suggesting -- go below the visible part of the stock and relieve a space and fill with glass bedding. Seems to be working so far...
Bret4207
At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
This issue has been in discussion forever and a day. As far as I've read, the ideas above are the common fix. I've never had a lot of luck repairing pre-existing chips and splits, but I've seen other examples that appear to work pretty good. I've also seen them pinned and glued after spliting.
Somewhere in one of Brownells "Gunsmith Kinks" there are some recommendations on this. Also on bedding the forearm, which is said to increase accuracy and stop the "wild shot" some guns tend to throw.
Somewhere in one of Brownells "Gunsmith Kinks" there are some recommendations on this. Also on bedding the forearm, which is said to increase accuracy and stop the "wild shot" some guns tend to throw.
Ian
Notorious member
Drilling a small hole through the cracks, filling with Gorilla glue, and forcing the glue the length of the crack with a dowel rod sized to fit the hole and act like a piston is one way to repair cracks and splits.....after you get all the old lubricating oil soaked out of the wood with acetone.
JonB
Halcyon member
One of my first gun repair project, was a Rem 870 wingmaster 12ga. with a crack, (vertical) in the butt stock just behind the receiver. I was just gonna replace that old worn wooden factory stock with some black zytel stock, but a friend talked me into repairing it. Cleaned up the oil/grease off the wood best I could, drill a couple 1/8" holes into and through the crack, epoxy and "shish kabob" bamboo skewers.