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Firelap & try .312....?
Savage Model 99
- Thread starter Ian
- Start date
Bret4207
At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I think Earl is right, the magazines will tolerate more than some think. No, you probably aren't going to get a 25-35 spool to work great with a 38/55, but they aren't "go/no go" precisely. You can always make up a few dummy rounds and try it before you decide. If the mag doesn't take them freely and feed them at all then you know it's not gonna happen.
FWIW- I've had a number of the spools in my hand, out of the rifle, and I've placed cartridges in them to try and figure just how they sit and feed. It's not as simple as you'd think.It's a pretty clever invention. Anyone who can design something like that has a lot more smarts than the average bear.
Ian
Notorious member
"Just". Yeah. We covered that bit in another thread recently.
So it goes like this:
Check headspace with gauges prior to disassembly.
Turn, taper-bore, and split aluminum rod to fit barrel contour @ chamber and Brownells bench-mounted barrel vise.
Turn plug gauge to fit new barrel's bore dimension.
Strip rifle to bare receiver/barrel.
Fabricobble receiver vise.
Crank the old barrel out of the action.
Check barrel threads, grind tool.
Check barrel contour and cut new barrel to length.
Set up barrel between chuck and tailstock center and profile barrel to match original. Can't do between centers due to lack of bed length.
Set up and indicate barrel through headstock to turn tenon, cut thread relief, and face shoulder and end of barrel to match original exactly.
Cut and skim threads until snug fit in receiver.
Ream chamber. Ream, install receiver, check headspace, remove receiver, rinse and repeat until correct headspace is achieved without removing barrel from lathe.
Mark and cut extractor and top bolt guide slots in barrel.
Turn threads and shoulder on muzzle, cut/lap crown (heheh!)
Polish and acid-color receiver, trigger, and lever. Polish bolt, maybe jewel it?
Cold-blue barrel (or Duracoat blue)?
Install barrel w/threadlocker, verifying indexing and torque. Check headspace (again).
Reassemble rifle minus forearm and sights.
Test fire and check brass dimensions.
Turn forearm mount stud, drill barrel, press and solder in place.
Cut dovetail for rear sight, D/T for front sight ramp.
Install sights.
Fit new stocks to rifle, fit buttplate and forearm escutcheon, and finish with hand-rubbed BLO.
Oil and put in safe with other four .30-30s
So it goes like this:
Check headspace with gauges prior to disassembly.
Turn, taper-bore, and split aluminum rod to fit barrel contour @ chamber and Brownells bench-mounted barrel vise.
Turn plug gauge to fit new barrel's bore dimension.
Strip rifle to bare receiver/barrel.
Fabricobble receiver vise.
Crank the old barrel out of the action.
Check barrel threads, grind tool.
Check barrel contour and cut new barrel to length.
Set up barrel between chuck and tailstock center and profile barrel to match original. Can't do between centers due to lack of bed length.
Set up and indicate barrel through headstock to turn tenon, cut thread relief, and face shoulder and end of barrel to match original exactly.
Cut and skim threads until snug fit in receiver.
Ream chamber. Ream, install receiver, check headspace, remove receiver, rinse and repeat until correct headspace is achieved without removing barrel from lathe.
Mark and cut extractor and top bolt guide slots in barrel.
Turn threads and shoulder on muzzle, cut/lap crown (heheh!)
Polish and acid-color receiver, trigger, and lever. Polish bolt, maybe jewel it?
Cold-blue barrel (or Duracoat blue)?
Install barrel w/threadlocker, verifying indexing and torque. Check headspace (again).
Reassemble rifle minus forearm and sights.
Test fire and check brass dimensions.
Turn forearm mount stud, drill barrel, press and solder in place.
Cut dovetail for rear sight, D/T for front sight ramp.
Install sights.
Fit new stocks to rifle, fit buttplate and forearm escutcheon, and finish with hand-rubbed BLO.
Oil and put in safe with other four .30-30s
Ian
Notorious member
Couple of revisions.
Looking pretty hard at trying my hand at slow rust-blueing the barrel, and also the receiver, trigger, and lever screw. Lever will still be case hardened, since that's the way they were done originally.
May not dovetail the sights, thinking more about a tubular front ramp from Brownells, tall enough to facilitate use with suppressor installed. I might also skip the rear barrel sight and only use an aperture sight mounted on the receiver tang. Still thinking on this.
I call it fun, or maybe a fun adventure since this sort of work is basically new to me. Should have a barrel after Christmas, no idea when Brownells is going to get the reamer and stuff here.
Looking pretty hard at trying my hand at slow rust-blueing the barrel, and also the receiver, trigger, and lever screw. Lever will still be case hardened, since that's the way they were done originally.
May not dovetail the sights, thinking more about a tubular front ramp from Brownells, tall enough to facilitate use with suppressor installed. I might also skip the rear barrel sight and only use an aperture sight mounted on the receiver tang. Still thinking on this.
I call it fun, or maybe a fun adventure since this sort of work is basically new to me. Should have a barrel after Christmas, no idea when Brownells is going to get the reamer and stuff here.
Bret4207
At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I have a tang sight on my 99x303. It's the more or less current Marbles version IIRC. The sight itself is nice. It does get in the way a bit. If you can find a nice old Redfield or Lyman recvr sight that mounts on the side of the recvr they work a hair better in real world terms, ie- they don't get in the way of your hand. If your's isn't drilled and tapped for that type, then go with the tang.
Ian
Notorious member
I was thinking the marbles one designed for the 99's tang. Spendy but appropriate. Since I don't wrap my thumb around the wrist of my leverguns, the tang sight shouldn't be too much of a problem. Safari express sights would be neat, but on a short barrel/long receiver and barrel having an abrupt taper directly forward of the receiver ring which might not look very good with a tall rear sight block.
fiver
Well-Known Member
put a 1913 rail on it then drill the cheek piece for a rising comb.
might as well go full tacticool.
I seen a pretty neat product for re-bluing guns it's kind of a ceracoat type thing but without the cooking.
you spray the bluing on in coats from a 2 part mixture [mixed right in the aerosol can] and let it dry.
might as well go full tacticool.
I seen a pretty neat product for re-bluing guns it's kind of a ceracoat type thing but without the cooking.
you spray the bluing on in coats from a 2 part mixture [mixed right in the aerosol can] and let it dry.
Ian
Notorious member
That's the rattle-can Duracoat stuff, they sell it in a bunch of different "blue" sheens and tints, I was considering it for the barrel but had a lot rather do rust blue. The Duracoat stuff would be perfect for an AR-15 done in the walnut/blued steel look.
Do you think I need a dedicated bipod stud and flashlight mount? What about welding a single-point sling cup onto the receiver?
Do you think I need a dedicated bipod stud and flashlight mount? What about welding a single-point sling cup onto the receiver?
Pistolero
Well-Known Member
I really like the function of tang sights, but they are a bit of a PITA when handling and carrying
the rifles. Look at WGRS-Savage, $40 seems like a deal.
https://williamsgunsight.com/produc...ceiver-sights-for-rifles-savage-rifle-sights/
I have purchased the rust blue accelerator, and a ultrafine wire wheel....looking for a round tuit
to do a Browning HP that has the original yechh paint in bad condition, traces of rust everywhere,
will need about 240 grit wet or dry on a surface plate to clean up and reflatten sides of receiver,
and then polish the whole thing clean and up to 320 grit. Apparently going better than that is
pointless with rust bluing because the rusting puts a fine matte finish on the surface. Also a
Rem copy of Brownig Auto 5 in nice "very used" condition. Just a nice rebluing would dress
up the old girl.
Seems some of us mentioned that you really needed to get a lathe. Lots of cool stuff suddenly
opens up.
Bill
the rifles. Look at WGRS-Savage, $40 seems like a deal.
https://williamsgunsight.com/produc...ceiver-sights-for-rifles-savage-rifle-sights/
I have purchased the rust blue accelerator, and a ultrafine wire wheel....looking for a round tuit
to do a Browning HP that has the original yechh paint in bad condition, traces of rust everywhere,
will need about 240 grit wet or dry on a surface plate to clean up and reflatten sides of receiver,
and then polish the whole thing clean and up to 320 grit. Apparently going better than that is
pointless with rust bluing because the rusting puts a fine matte finish on the surface. Also a
Rem copy of Brownig Auto 5 in nice "very used" condition. Just a nice rebluing would dress
up the old girl.
Seems some of us mentioned that you really needed to get a lathe. Lots of cool stuff suddenly
opens up.
Bill
Ian
Notorious member
Williams doesn't make a tang sight for this old trigger-safety 99 anymore. The Marbles sights are expensive and mount in a place I can only describe as "stupid", considering they don't have to clear the bolt throw. I had considered that my "go to" but had the Marbles and Lyman 1A confused... Lyman sights are ok, but out of production and most of them have somewhat of a Marbles Syndrome except for the 56S. The 56S looks like a Swiss watch with no case stuck on top of the receiver. So I'll either have to make a proper rear-receiver peep or just put one on the barrel like normal people do.
I needed a lathe since I was a kid, but money was always the issue. Took me a year to save up for the little bench lathe that I got, and so far it's been quite useful, though I've had to get pretty creative at times to figure out how to work around or with its limitations.
I needed a lathe since I was a kid, but money was always the issue. Took me a year to save up for the little bench lathe that I got, and so far it's been quite useful, though I've had to get pretty creative at times to figure out how to work around or with its limitations.
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Ian
Notorious member
Bill, I had found some photos of exactly one rifle having that sight previously, and none of them show a brand. That sight pictured has a large, globe insert supported by three legs and looks like it will let through plenty of light and give a good sight picture for hunting. It would be great if I could find one, but I didn't see anything like it on the Williams link. All Williams has is that gawdawful side-hanging abortion that's all sharp, square edges and a whole bunch of bulk that it doesn't need; IMO a poor adaption of their standard Marlin side-mount sight but instead made to fit the late-model 99s having the tang safety and scope base holes already drilled in the rear top of the receiver.
Got my barrel, nice and wet from where the kind, loving hands of the union pendejos at UPS had thrown it into the bar ditch by the highway in the rain. My wife had even left the gate open for them. Oh well, it's fine. I'll have to do some serious figuring here in a minute to see if it has enough meat on it to handle a re-chamber.
Also got my hands on a fresh Clymer 30-30 reamer and gauges...and a couple days off work.
Got my barrel, nice and wet from where the kind, loving hands of the union pendejos at UPS had thrown it into the bar ditch by the highway in the rain. My wife had even left the gate open for them. Oh well, it's fine. I'll have to do some serious figuring here in a minute to see if it has enough meat on it to handle a re-chamber.
Also got my hands on a fresh Clymer 30-30 reamer and gauges...and a couple days off work.
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