WANTED: Ideas for a HP

[Gary]

Not looking for a HP mold, looking for a mold that would lend itself to boring the cast bullet after it's cast to make a HP bullet. More precisely, a mold for a 458 Socom load. I'm thinking the NOE 460-350RF PB. Open to suggestions.
Gary

 

[fiver]

if it is for hunting a cup point would be my preference.
if it is for target shooting then I would run the slender H-P back to the crimp groove or front drive band area.
if it is for shooting water jugs and making your buddy's go wooooaw?! then a wide, open, deep point, the depth of the nose would be in order.

 

[Gary]

Thanks; that's kinda what I thought. I plan to hunt hogs with the HP with WD COWW 350 gr bad boys and maybe even some of the 500 gr. I'll be shooting into water jugs to get a better idea of expansion.

 

[Brad]

I have an NOE 460350 RD with one cav HP. Mine is gas checked.
Make sure you balance alloy to velocity and HP cavity shape/size if you want ant controlled expansion. Mine is wide and deep and with any hard alloy the entire nose blows off.

 

[freebullet]

Just having a nice meplat should work in the Socom.

I'd go with an iron mold if your looking to have one hollow pointed. It will be more consistent & last longer.

If your thinking of hp'ing a cavity yourself I'd warn the casting process is mighty slow with those types & might not net any real performance increase.

 

[Ian]

Just having a nice meplat should work in the Socom.

Just being heavy and .45 caliber is enough. Any meplat you add helps exponentially. After all my trials making HP moulds for the Socom (granted, it was for heavier, sub-sonic bullets) and actually killing a pig with a solid I'm convinced the HP is pretty much un-necessary, particularly if you're going lighter and much faster, like 16-1800 fps.

If you do choose to HP the mould, follow the excellent advice already given.

 

[Gary]

The NOE 460350 looks like what we're looking at for now. Thanks.

 

[freebullet]

You looking at this one- http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product_info.php?cPath=42_138&products_id=3414

If so I'd pass. I don't like those thin drive bands just above the check. It's a design weakness imo. Not that they can't shoot well but, that they can be an issue in some instances.

If your looking to potentially hollow point it I'd get iron or brass. They last forever & hold heat better.

This one looks like a better way to go.
http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=46-325S-D.png

Or this one.
http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=46-350S-D.png

Those are both made for your intended caliber & are of a design that may lend itself to being shot unchecked. Maybe 2 birds 1 stone deal.

Sadly looks like Lee don't make a good one for that.

In iron or brass 2 cavity is my preference for weight & speed.

 

[Gary]

I really like the second one, the 46-350s. Thanks for the info.

 

[Ian]

I don't like those thin drive bands just above the check. It's a design weakness imo. Not that they can't shoot well but, that they can be an issue in some instances.

Same thoughts here.

I won't say those dual-purpose cherries don't make good gas check bullets, because the NOE 30-170 RF has shot some unbelievable groups from my Marlin .30-30, but the same bullet wouldn't shoot straight out of any .308 Win. I tried, and often lost the check. Lack of any real bearing surface for 1/4" forward of the check can cause problems if the case neck is short or there is a lot of loaded chamber neck clearance. That was enough for me to steer clear of those types of bullet moulds.