Zinclettes ?

RBHarter

West Central AR
Several yr ago I absorbed a dozen or so threads and waded through the boredom of repetition in different phrasing of the information and the threads that just ended about the time the shooter was getting to the good parts ........

What I got out of it ,
Use iron moulds , zinc doesn't play nice with aluminum .
Copper laden zinc works best . Zamak 3 ?
Lead contamination below 5% removes the piping issues .
No need for checks , coating or lubes .
Way lighter than lead .
Use a separate dedicated pot for zinc alloy .

I have a couple of candidate bullets I'd like to try .
A 27-135F . Should come in 89-91 gr if math and memory serves , 65-70 if my second guessing is right .
There was some talk about about weight vs case intrusion for extracting load data , so what start with the slowest powder at a start charge for an X bullet halfway between what the zinclettes weigh and what they were cast as ? If a lead 27-130 weighs 135 and it's zinker weighs 90 gr try 4198 for a 115 gr Barnes X in a 6.8 SPC and see what happens ?

I've thought about paper patched in zinc but it seems counter intuitive . So maybe a straight wall cartridge would be a better starting place . How fast would a 300 gr 405 design go with a 50kpsi limit ?
Will the "free" velocity offset the lost mass ? I don't care for my intent because I don't intend to use it on live targets in fact just as light short range training ammo . Look , feel , rapid energy loss .
 

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
I'm working on sorting a few buckets of wheelweights, and have been debating keeping the zinc weights and setting them aside for a rainy day. I really don't want to risk getting zinc ingots confused with regular WW, so I haven't gone to that point yet.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
you have light weight which means speed.
you lose all of that speed rapidly but 100yd target shooting at or near jacketed velocity's are possible.

what is gonna happen is your going to lay down a coating of zinc in the barrel.
it will look like the barrel is frosted. [or an alligator skin]
don't panic and don't try to get it out, work on getting it down all the way to the muzzle.
if/when you go to another type of projectile it won't hurt anything and will [possibly] be a help in gaining velocity and holding lube.

now...
now that it's in there your in good shape and thing will start to come around and work better.
just work with bullet data for the bullet your using.
that will give you a starting point and you can just keep on moving forward from there.

mold pre-heating is a good idea and don't be loafing around waiting to open the sprue plate.
 
F

freebullet

Guest
Never went down that road yet. Will look forward to your results.
 
F

freebullet

Guest
With the hardness of zinc I reckon they might could go through thin mild steel but, not thicker or harder steel.
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
I've been thinking on the iron moulds I have .
45-200 SWC .454 w lead
310291 .308 with my rifle alloy
A couple of 6.5s that go 267-8 in my alloy .
It seems like the 45-200 might be the best place to start .
The 120 gr 6.5 will tip in at like 70gr , I can't wrap my head around the WM and a 70 gr bullet , muzzle poof I'd guess at full tilt .