design and alloy

bns454

Active Member
Fiver,did you mean measure the groove diameter of that slug,I wasnt sure if you were referring to my pound cast or not.Or that picture after mine.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Your pound cast has a long, obvious throat taper and a clear step at the end of the chamber. The taper is obvious by the slight contact points on your two-diameter bullets, which I circled in red.

Draw a picture of your rifle's chamber neck, throat, and bore/groove, and grid out the whole thing. You can take diameter measurements of the pound cast along where I drew the green lines. The purple line is where I think the throat taper terminates, but you'll have to measure to be sure, in the rifling impressions. Caliper jaws inserted into the land impression of the slug from the front will show you where they start to taper.

Once you map a scale drawing of your throat, you can get an idea of angle (red lines) of the throat, and then can compare that to a bullet drawing, or just make a new drawing, indicating the number of Loverin bands and the diameters of every portion of the bullet.

454s pound cast.jpg
 

bns454

Active Member
Ok,I understand,your saying the smooth part of the cast might be tapered as it gets farther from the case neck.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
yep.
it's usually something slight like just a few degrees of taper but that little bit is what makes a mold work.
think about just a straight 90* step no throat is shaped like that.
but many molds are.
so you end up taking that major drive band diameter and shoving it into the funnel [soup can into the funnel thing] this just tears the front end up and pushes it into an unsupported nose base with a bunch of air there to support it.
 

bns454

Active Member
So when I choose/design a mould it needs to be smooth no square bands but matching the throat taper.How accurate are pin gauges in the muzzle end to find bore diameter.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
they ain't, your trying to match the throat not the muzzle.
you can stick all kinds of things in that end of the barrel but really unless it's bugled out or has a jacked up muzzle it tells you nothing.
 

bns454

Active Member
Ok,so I dont care about bore diameter on the bullet design,It will squeeze down where it wants.I will draw out a diagram of the throat and try to post it here.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
not so much.
but the nose is gonna get there if it's close enough for it to reach, so you have to know what it is.
the shape is the important thing to begin with, then the diameters are fit to that.
you'll know the bore and groove diameters from the slug.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Something like this. I have no idea what your actual diameters will be, but you can do scale drawings off this. Also, Tom can cut the bands at a taper in the throat area so they don't stair-step in parallel jumps. I made the grooves narrower in the front for more support in the throat, they are just there for crimp and displacement grooves as you will only need to lube the bottom two.

The diameter of the body bands inside the case neck should be pretty much the same size as your throat entrance diameter, as measured from the pound cast.

32-180D redraw.jpg
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
you can also take out a drive band for less weight to better fit the throat area.
I know most like a bit more weight for cast bullets but I don't get so wrapped up about that.
I would rather have a little less bore ride, or weight in front of the transition area of the bullet as it were.
 

bns454

Active Member
Something like this. I have no idea what your actual diameters will be, but you can do scale drawings off this. Also, Tom can cut the bands at a taper in the throat area so they don't stair-step in parallel jumps. I made the grooves narrower in the front for more support in the throat, they are just there for crimp and displacement grooves as you will only need to lube the bottom two.

The diameter of the body bands inside the case neck should be pretty much the same size as your throat entrance diameter, as measured from the pound cast.

View attachment 5375
That will fit right in my gun as is,I looked at that on his site an hour ago thinking it will work.
 

Ian

Notorious member
I think the nose is too small and there's no taper as drawn where your throat tapers. The base band is also a lot bigger than you probably need. Do some measuring and compare to the drawing I modified and see how that goes. The big gap between the bands in the middle and nose as the 180D is drawn won't do you any favors, either.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Looks like my guess is pretty close. The bands as I drew them are .050" wide and the micro-grooves are .030" each, so you can plot it out with your measurements and see where it ends up, maybe shorten the bullet if you'd like it lighter, and see what you have there. It's only a suggestion to illustrate my idea, you need to figure out for yourself what you think will work best.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
you can also double or triple up the bands.
that will make it look a lot more like the mold I pictured earlier.
you want to get the drive bands up in the 60-65% area to help with the weight balance [center of gravity] being a little to the rear.
 

bns454

Active Member
I got that design program to play with,even though its too complicated for me and makes me crazy.I have 2 molds to play with now.so I wont rush it.If my bore is .312 what should my nose shape be.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
it kind of depends who is cutting the mold.
if it's an accurate you don't have a lot of choice because of the meplat. [that 180 I show is about right]
if mtn. molds is doing it, I would emulate the XCB type nose because your gonna be jumping to the rifling with a 313-314 diameter.
if you go with a loverign design then the rounded one shown above is correct with just a slight amount of 312 on the side it will give you the most length to fill out the taper.
the shape will also dictate the powder speed you'll want to use, and the alloy to a point also.
it's kind of a package deal
 

Ian

Notorious member
You could do a tapered-nose silhouette style bullet, but that throat will move a lot of metal you're going to have to figure out where it wants to go and work with it, which will also lock you into a certain powder speed and alloy, or at least a combinations of powder/alloy which only work together just so at certain speeds. The Loverin is an age-old solution to big throats, but the design has quirks. Hell, they ALL have their quirks.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
yes they do.
it's taken me quite a while to figure out that there were/are even different systems, never mind how to work with them.
I still get it wrong, and have to a little searching for the best combination for each rifle.