Rifle stock paint job.

waco

Springfield, Oregon
So my brother and I were trying to come up with a good effective desert camo paint job for some of our rifles. We had used some donor stocks that came with the factory rifles to practice on and this is what we came up with today using sponges. 37766A16-791F-46A7-AE8D-6B0F0F583444.jpeg
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Quite impressive but don't set it down out there, you'll never find it. :cool:
 

waco

Springfield, Oregon
Quite impressive but don't set it down out there, you'll never find it. :cool:
Don't laugh. Leaned a rifle against a tree once to go take care of some business and had to look around for a couple minutes to find it again!
 
F

freebullet

Guest
Lookin good. I like the top one better but the bottom one would disappear in most nearby fields.
 

waco

Springfield, Oregon
Lookin good. I like the top one better but the bottom one would disappear in most nearby fields.
The top one is mine. We were trying a few different things to see what works best. To be honest, both will work well out in the high dessert of Oregon.
Thanks Freebullet.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Thats actually very clever. Fhe 3d effect of the high-contrast speckles is verry effective.
 

Intheshop

Banned
From the,probably more than you want to know files,haha.

"If it's a floater,use promoter" is a time old saying in auto collision paint world.The notion is,slice a pce of plastic off the part,toss it in a glass of water.If it floats,use an adhesion promoter.

Another technique,paint plastic with an epoxy primer.... Then proceed as normal.

Another,mechanical bond by sanding....

And one of my favs..... on certain "slick" plastics,the only way to glue them is to wave a propane torch over the plastic.The specifics gets too involved for me to explain(sumthin I'm not good at anyway) but it is the only way you can glue certain varieties.Well,painting is a first cousin to glue,and the torch technique is a bonafied way to get the plastic "prepped" for paint.But there's a short window of time for the glueup or paint.....15 minutes to maybe a 1/2 hour.

If I remember,will take a pic or two of a pretty easy to make fixture/jig for holding stocks for spraying.
 

Ian

Notorious member
A base coat of Krylon Fusion works pretty well for budget home-gamers. Topcoat with matte acrylic to melt in and level the surface (especially if masking and spraying multiple colors/layers). Two coats minimum, three is better. If you want permanent use two-part urethane.