1903 Springfield stock refinish

Snakeoil

Well-Known Member
My 03 is far from a collectible. It still has it's original barrel, screwed on in 1921 at the Springfield Arsenal. But the old straight grip stock was replaced at some point by what appears to have been a used C stock with the full pistolgrip. I say used because there are some relieved areas that my action does not use and the fit at the rear of the action looks like a blind beaver did the inletting. The rifle is drilled and tapped for both Lyman 48S and Unertl type scope blocks. It's my go-to rifle for shooting silhouettes at Wilton.

The finish on the stock was some old glossy finish. It was scratched, gouged, dented and worn. The stock had been relieved for a bent bolt handle (same beaver did the work) and I cleaned up that area when I first got the rifle. But the relieve was too tight to the bolt handle and when I closed the bolt, it would often grab a chunk of my palm and pinch the bejezus out of it.

So, last Sunday, after the match, I decided to fix "jaws". I faired that relief cut back and blened it back towards the wrist. Then I got out my leather dye and sand paper to "blend" in the repair. Well, one thing led to another and before I knew it I was sanding all the old finish off the stock.

I used Feibing's Medium Red leather dye to stain the stock and give it that French Red look of the old Winchester wood. I suspect that I did not wait long enough after staining to apply the True Oil finish. The first coat was still sticky after 2 days and a heater blowing warm air acrossed it. I also noticed that the hand guard had oil oozing out of it with the heat. The stock had also turned a very dark brown, with most if not all the grain disappearing. I bit the bullet and got out the 0000 steel wool and went at it. It was like cleaning off cosmolene. The semi-dry finish cleaned off and revealed a gorgeous wood color underneath. I did the entire stock and the hand guard. I then packed the handguard in desiccant to see if it would suck some of that old gun oil out of the wood.

Then next hand rubbed coat of True Oil actually dried on the stock. Not so much on the hand guard. But it was better. I lightly steel wooled the two pieces and applied another hand rubbed coat of Truel Oil. Stock dried well but hand guard still so-so. So, I hit both with steel wood until I had a nice satin finish on both and called the job done.

It looks 100% better than it did before. I can always get another hand guard from Numrich and replace my oily one. What I like about the oily one is at some point rather than scrap a part, whoever made the hand guard put 4 dutchmen across the grain, probably to prevent or repair splitting. It's a neat little personality feature that I'd really like to keep with the rifle.

Anyone have any tips on getting old gun oil out of walnut? I suspect that once the wood is oiled, there is no getting it out.
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Whiting and alcohol. Make a paste and paint it on the stock. It will pull he oil out of the wood. Steel wool it off when dry. Repeat as needed to get rid of all the oil.

Whiting is essentially powdered calcium carbonate- limestone. It is easy to find at stained glass shops.

My 1917 Enfield needed 3 treatments before the stock was mostly clear of oil.
 
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RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
First, do not use lye or oven off cleaner. In the summer, you can wrap it in several layers of paper towel, put it in a plastic garbage bag and leave on the dash of your truck while in the sunshine. Then I use whiting and cheap isopropyl alcohol like Brad. While this is a longer process, you will not screw anything up or or make the wood fibers break off.

I restored or de-sporterized about 20 1903 and 1903A3's since they were released from CMP. Patience is your friend. FWIW
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Yes, heat will speed the process. Ever notice how oil soaked stocks bleed oil in the summer?
I agree with Ric on lye or oven cleaner- not a good thing for this situation,
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Lacquer thinner applied heavily and wiped off, 3 days in a row will take out most of it so you can re-finish!
If you do not care about liver damage and brain damage you can do it in your shop ( like me)
But better done outside! Toluene penetrates deep into the wood and pulls it out!
( I buy Lacquer thinner, Acetone, & Naphtha by the gallon ...I have to sign a paper for the acetone)
 

Snakeoil

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys. Knew about whiting from that product they sell in the spray cans for removing grease stains on fabric. Never knew where to get just the whiting.
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
Lacquer thinner applied heavily and wiped off, 3 days in a row will take out most of it so you can re-finish!
If you do not care about liver damage and brain damage you can do it in your shop ( like me)
But better done outside! Toluene penetrates deep into the wood and pulls it out!
( I buy Lacquer thinner, Acetone, & Naphtha by the gallon ...I have to sign a paper for the acetone)
I have a real problem with using these on hundred year old stocks from the desert out here. It may work for you in high humidity, but those tend to leave cracks with the moisture content is low.
 

Charles Graff

Moderator Emeritus
Formbys Antique Furniture Refinisher will remove any varnish or lacquer finish quickly. It won't remove oil. Tru-Oil is not an oil.