300 BO Mold

CWLONGSHOT

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
Morning gents, I've been on the search for a 300 blackout bullet and so far, I really like this Lee 312-155 2R made for the 762x39.

The mold I have is borrowed and although I can keep it as long as I want I just assume by my own. Anyone know if one of the better mold makers offers a comparable mold same style shape approximate weight?

Lee molds are passable but Innoway accurate arsenal mountain moles they're all just superior.Lee molds are passable but NOE, Accurate, Arsenal, Mountain Molds There Old your superior superior. I just as soon have one of theirs.

appreciate the help

CW
 
Joshua

Joshua

Taco Aficionado/Salish Sea Pirate/Part-Time Dragon
Is the one you are using a two cavity or a six cavity??I find the six cavities to be a much better quality product. I’m planning on picking up this mold in a six cavity.
I have a single cavity 312-160-2R-TL that I have had good results with recently in my 30-06. I’m on the fence about wether I should buy the 155gr or the 160gr. But either way it’s gonna be a six cavity.
Josh
 
Intel6

Intel6

Active Member
I have the 6 cavity version of that mould and I use it for making bullets to use for plinking loads for my 300 BO pistol. It is a decent weight and shaped great for the BO. I PC and GC them and load quantities of them for plinking with the BO.
 
Ian

Ian

Notorious member
As was said get the six-cavity Lee version if you don't have it already.

Accurate and Mountain don't do pointy bullets. NOE makes the 30-165 which might do well for you like RB mentioned.

What we need is a 140-grain BLK bullet that is pointed, has a two-taper, concave nose, a series of microbands, some space above the straight .284" gas check shank, and to cast at about .309".

Like this, but with more GC shank:

20200119_211153.jpg

20200119_211234.jpg
 
Last edited:
CWLONGSHOT

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
Im wanting a good sized mold for certain!! Im borrowing a 6 cav now. (312-1552R). I have a few BO firearms to feed. :p

Im not completely opposed to just buying the LEE. I agree they have been good for the $$ spent. Probably just what I should do.

i shot my 3031 Load withbthem today in three different rifles with good accuracy and perfect function.

CW
 
Bliksem

Bliksem

Active Member
2 of the better designs that I use are the 31-142D & 31-155W from Accurate. The 31-142D works well in the 7.62x40WT too. I prefer this style of bullet as they perform better when hunting than the pointy designs. What I did in the past is to modify a Lee 312-155 mold to drop flat pointed bullets. These work well if conventionally lubed but the noses are too thick if powder coated. Attached are images of the 2 Accurate molds mentioned.
 

Attachments

  • 31-142D-D.png
    31-142D-D.png
    19.8 KB · Views: 14
  • 31-155W-D.png
    31-155W-D.png
    22.1 KB · Views: 14
P

popper

Well-Known Member
312-155 That nose too big? 142C&D work well for me, nose deliberately made smaller for PC. Likewise the GC shank. Similar to 165B that I modded (C) for the 308W AR. Been using the 168C for heavy in the BO with good results. Runs good @ 900 but hits harder @ ~1400.
 
Bliksem

Bliksem

Active Member
popper said:
312-155 That nose too big? 142C&D work well for me, nose deliberately made smaller for PC. Likewise the GC shank. Similar to 165B that I modded (C) for the 308W AR. Been using the 168C for heavy in the BO with good results. Runs good @ 900 but hits harder @ ~1400.
Click to expand...

I misspoke somewhat in that the 312-155 with PC the nose is too fat for the 7.62x40WT, it works just fine in the 300BO.

I must admit that I have been favoring the 40WT and 300HAMR more lately than the 300BO. The 300BO works as long as you respect it's limitations but since I don't care for cans and subsonic the other 2 beats it when you want to speed things up.
 
Hawk

Hawk

Well-Known Member
BliksemE300,
I'm loading for the 7.62x40WT, also.
I've got the 31-155W mold, but health issues have prevented me from wring it out and working up a good load.
Also, I changed from LC brass to PPU brass and have had to start over with working up loads, because the PPU brass is thicker.
Had to turn the necks and slightly reduced case capacity, from the heavier brass, has made me have to start from scratch.
I never would have thought heavier brass would have made that much of a difference, but it does.
I did find the double PC coating the bullets causes the nose and ogive not to work in my Wilson's barrels throat.
 
Bliksem

Bliksem

Active Member
Hawk said:
BliksemE300,
I'm loading for the 7.62x40WT, also.
I've got the 31-155W mold, but health issues have prevented me from wring it out and working up a good load.
Also, I changed from LC brass to PPU brass and have had to start over with working up loads, because the PPU brass is thicker.
Had to turn the necks and slightly reduced case capacity, from the heavier brass, has made me have to start from scratch.
I never would have thought heavier brass would have made that much of a difference, but it does.
I did find the double PC coating the bullets causes the nose and ogive not to work in my Wilson's barrels throat.
Click to expand...

Yep, thick brass is a PITA. When I started out with the 300BO a few years ago I did not realize this and went down some rabbit holes before somebody pointed out the different thicknesses. Blown primers are no fun... Now I use LC brass for all conversions.

I never double coat due to the trouble with fit in a number of my rifles, I prefer to use a ES gun when coating as I have better control and don't coat the GC shanks this way.
 
Hawk

Hawk

Well-Known Member
Yes, that is the problem I am having with the 31-155W.
It was designed specifically for the 7.62X40WT chamber, but with powder coating, it makes it a little tight and needs to be seated deeper.
 
Jack Swilling

Jack Swilling

New Member
I went round and round on this issue
I recollect that the nose has to be sub .305"
Could be way off
I have blocked my memory, but my uppers are telling me what is what
But I got tired of arguing the point in Dante's Inferno
 
P

popper

Well-Known Member
I made the nose on the 142C&D 297 for this reason. Size the drive band to whatever (fit the throat) and nose fits even with PC. I don't need over 100 yds with it, WT40 & Hamr have shorter throat IIRC.
 
Ian

Ian

Notorious member
That's the best solution IMO, Popper. Problem is that many mould designers and most handloaders still think in terms of bore/groove when fitting a bullet, guess at how much over groove to size (instead of measuring things other than a barrel slug), and TOTALLY ignore the throat diameter/shape/length.

I propose two solutions: one is for low-node shooting with Barlow bullets which won't engrave properly due to powder coating. A two-diameter, nose-first H-die with ejector which will squeeze down the nose slightly to fit the lands at their origin with only slight interference, and size the body to the desired diameter (throat entrance) at the same time. This die will require pre-sizing the body to within .001" of final diameter in a push-through die. The other solution is similar but will instead bump a two-angle taper on the nose starting at (for .30-caliber) .298" or so and tapering to .302" at about 1⁰ included angle, then become more abrupt (3-4⁰ included) up to body size. This will not work with all bullets, especially not with "silhouette" bullets with long, parallel noses, but the two-diameter die would be the best solution for those anyway.

Except for exceptionally long/large/worn throats, i find that .30-caliber powder coated bullets really shoot well sized at .3095-.310", particularly if they have a tapered nose and are seated off the lands a bit, and the loader isn't turning their case necks and fireforming for maximum concentricity with the bore.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.