30xcb molds in stock at NOE

Reloader762

Active Member
using ww's ain't ya.
yours from the mold weigh about 1/2gr more than what mine do after checking and lubing.

Well actually my mix is 50/50 with a bit of tin quenched out of the toaster oven. My bullets always cast on the heavier side of the mold spec. but thats fine as long as there consistent an shoots straight. It's the same alloy I cast the Lee 170 gr. FP bullets from that I shot in the 06 with an average MV of 2295 fps.so though I would start with what worked last time around and go from there.
 
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waco

Springfield, Oregon
What powder/powders were you using? I had some good results with IMR4831, H414, and RL15
 

Reloader762

Active Member
Working with some H-4198 right now till I see where that ends up, I also have some H-4895, IMR-3031 an RL-15. I don't have a lot of extra money to spend on different powders to test so I like to work with what I have on hand an see what I can do with it. I have some data I can use with the 4895 an 3031 but nothing for the RL-15.
 

waco

Springfield, Oregon
With a COL of 2.760", Brad ran some Quick Load numbers for me using the 30 xcb using RL15.
41gr-2270fps
42gr-2328fps
43gr-2385fps
44gr-2446fps
45gr-2505fps
46gr-2565fps
47gr-2625fps
Anything higher than this is approaching max. This was based on the H2o volume of my brass(commercial not military) so YMMV.
 

L Ross

Well-Known Member
Why so, it's just another way to lube a bullet and it not that hard if you just follow some basics that have proven to work and use a good powder to start with. The powder is probably the most expensive part starting out but you can get 3 1/3rd lb. color samples from Smoke over on Cast Boolits for the price of 1 single color an Eastwood has sales on occasion.

For equipment, I just use any old recycled #5 plastic container we use around the house that would normally go in the trash. My convection toaster oven which also came with a tray was a recycle from the thrift store for a few dollars. You can use parchment paper or non-stick Reynolds foil to line your tray with, others use silicone mats which ever you prefer. I like the foil best as I get more uses out of it that the parchment and when it gets some buildup from the powder I just throw it away an get a new piece.

I use the shake & Bake method along with some black air soft BB's or pony beads to kind of buffer the bullets, it's a personal preference whether to use them or not and I stand all my bullets up on their bases, others just shake off the excess powder and dump them on the baking sheet. Again it's justa personal choice as to how you want to coat your bullets.
Here is my rationale. I load and shoot reduced velocity loads at mild steel targets at 80, 160, and 210 yards here on my own personal range. Once velocity hits 1,800 fps I start to get serious dimpling damage to my targets. Most of my rifle loads fall in the 1,200 to 1,600 fps range. They are easy on my ears, shoulder, rifles, and targets. I am getting very good, useful accuracy of just less than 1 moa to no more than 2 moa. If I need to shoot something at full velocity, (i.e. a deer or two per year, I'll use jacketed). Even then, I usually just shoot deer with cast at 1,800 to 2,000 fps with conventionally lubed and tumbled bullets with ACWW and a bit of tin.

I am interested and applaud the efforts of those of you attaining jacketed bullet performance with cast projectiles and I believe that powder coat jacketing is a break through in cast bullet technology.

I see no use for powder coating whatsoever in handguns as I can usually just tumble lube in BLL and shoot them as cast. It hardly gets any faster or easier than that.