311413

RBHarter

West Central AR
If my reading was correct and I remember it correctly . Pope was affiliated with the Squibb fellow and his method of use was to chamber a charged case with a powder card in place or a means to keep the charge in the case . Then he pushed the bullet down the barrel into the case mouth but fully in the barrel and preengraved with only the bottom band in the partially to fully in the case . If I understood it correctly his match rifles loaded as such had a neck ID the same as the groove dia with no leade or throat .
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I've never seen the Pope/Squibb relationship before, but it's certainly possible. I'm not sure when Pope died, but it was after the Krag period for sure. There were a mess of really strange ideas tried out in the Krag/Springfield era. Scraper grooves and 2 diameter designs with PB seemed a popular theory at the time. After the '06 came on the scene it looked like everyone was trying to mimic the service load bullet in lead and then trying to push it at 2500fps. It's kind of sad that all the ideas and theories and work that got to where we are now has been lost to time.
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
Pope died October 13, 1950, at the age of 89. Ninety percent of it is in: The Bullet's Flight, Handloading Ammunition and The Reloader's manual.
All three have been reprinted in the last 25 years.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Thanks for his date of passing. 90% of what is in those books? I have 2 of the 3 IRIC.
 

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
The interesting side is reading old "Arms and the Man", "Fish, Fur and Game", "Furs", et al. There were arguments from 1890 to 1914 about cast bullets. A lot of those are online now.
 

Rally

NC Minnesota
Bret,
I know several of the folks writing for FFG. Bob Gilsvik lives by me and has rode with me to trappers conventions where he mans their tables. I always thought it was a down to earth magazine, not over advertised like most rags.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
No kidding! Well if you see him, tell him one of his readers sends his best wishes and thanks for many years following his advice please. FFG has been a staple at my house since the early 70's.
 

Ben

Moderator
Staff member
Years ago, I took a single cav. IDEAL 311413 and removed the gas check shank rendering the mould to make a plain base bullet. This has worked wonderfully. I don't think I've ever fired this bullet out of a 30-30, 308 or 30-06 in the 1050 - 1250 fps speed zone that it was not superbly accurate.

My idea was two fold :

(1) Move the center of gravity more to the rear of the bullet
(2) Do away with the $$ cost of pesky gas checks

The idea has worked well for me.
However, I've stayed in the 1050 - 1250 fps speed zone.

Ben

QQOekm2.jpg
 
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Brother_Love

Well-Known Member
Ben,
I like that! Were you able to “de-gascheck” yourself or did you have it done. I have a pristine example of that mold that I would love to remove the check base on. I haven’t ordered a GC mold in sometime. Even though I can make the checks myself I have so much enjoyed not having to go through that step. I don’t believe the deer I’ve taken knew whether the bullet was checked or not.
Thank you, Malcolm
 

Brother_Love

Well-Known Member
Well,I did it. I’m happy with it. These are sized .309” lubed with Carnuba Blue and will have a light bath in BLL. No one should ever use my name in the same sentence with machinist! Although the noses of these bullets appear crooked they are not, I guess it is the camera.
B5C2C0B1-5762-40FC-A2AD-08CA5FE2CEBC.jpeg8DC2D261-1750-4CDF-AEA4-3F1C71215069.jpeg
 

Gary

SE Kansas
What happened to the bottom lube groove? I assume you used a base first lube sizer instead of a star, ect. I have a couple of molds I'd like to try that gas check removal trick. Wish I had a Mill NOW!!
 
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Ian

Notorious member
Use your lathe to turn out gas check shanks. Piece of cake to bump the blocks around in a 4-jaw or on a face plate until the face is true and the test indicator is running true with the rear driving band. Then just shave it out with a boring bar. Need to get the rear band true to a couple of tenths so your base isn't catty-whompus.