32-20 Revolver - Experience/Recommendations Pls

Rally Hess

Rally Hess

Well-Known Member
Might look at the NOE 314-115 (311316 clone). Mine drops at a full .314 + with some tin. I'm shooting it sized .313 in my Marlin 1894 and .312 in my single six .32 mag. I got the rg4 mould with two cavities GC and two PB. My Marlins like fat and shoot the DP's best.
 
oscarflytyer

oscarflytyer

Well-Known Member
quick NOE mold question - will Lee handles fit them? Specifically 4-5 C molds? I have an extra one. Don't want to have to buy a new handle if don't need to.
 
Glen

Glen

Moderator
Staff member
4-cavity moulds will accept RCBS handles (and I think Lee as well). 5-cavity moulds will accept Lee 6-cavity handles.
 
H

Harry O-1

Member
I have been reloading the 32-20 for a revolver since the mid-1960's. The length of brass varies all over the map. Trim ALL you have to the length of the shortest one and adjust the dies for that length. Also, adjust the dies to turn the flare just back straight when seating the bullet (not crimped) and get a Lee Factory Crimp die to crimp it. If you have more than one 32-20, the chambers will probably vary, particularly in the location of the transition. That means you will probably have problems shooting cases from one in the another. In that case, shorten the sizing die slightly, until the resized case fits in all of your 32-20's. It doesn't take much. Check the diameter of the barrel and chamber throat. Size the bullets accordingly. Doing these things will GREATLY reduce any problems you have with reloading the 32-20.

0.314" is necessary for pre-WWII guns. Most newer ones will take 0.312". Of course, the Thompson Contender is 0.308". I got rid of it for that reason. Almost any bullet will work. I like the RCBS 32-098. However, I have used the 311 008, 311 316, a similar Modern-Bond mold, and a few others I don't remember right now. I have used several powders. Bullseye, Red Dot, and Unique work well, but could be double (or triple) charged with them. I now use Trail Boss for light loads for my old revolvers and the last of my supply of SR 4756 for higher loads. For my Marlin rifle, I use 2400. I use different bullets for each powder so even if they get separated from their marked boxes, I will know what is in them. Anything that cannot be identified is shot in the Marlin.

My favorite gun in 32-20 is a S&W NewModel 16 that I had rechambered from .32 Magnum. Have fun.
 
oscarflytyer

oscarflytyer

Well-Known Member
Well... major bummer tonight. Got the gun, cleaning it and something just did not feel right as I ran the patches down the bbl. Tight at the muzzle and as approach the forcing cone. But in the middle of the bbl, almost no resistance at all - certainly NOTHING like both ends of the bbl. Ran a number of patches down the bbl - all same feel to them. So started looking very close in bright light and sliding my fingers down the length of the bbl. I firmly believe the bbl has been ringed. Going to have a gunsmith check it out tomo.

IF it HAS been ringed, it is a damned shame. While the gun shows its age for being what I think is ~110 yrs old, it is very tight. (Another odd finding... Import marked on base of grip. Pretty sure this one cycled through Mexico.) My very limited research says that barrel ringing/bulging wasn't unusual in the old 32-20s. Not sure why that would be.

Update - emailed seller. Said if it is a problem, he missed it (just took a pic of the bore). I completely understand, as I only found it with patches. He is willing to refund if it is a problem. Stay tuned, and wish me luck!
 
Last edited:
RicinYakima

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
Shooting post-WWII jacketed bullet ammo that was loaded to 725 f/s and 8500 cup pressure specifications. Doing research for an article in this years Fouling Shot, I stuck a bullet in a like new Colt Army Special. When it didn't register on the Chrony, I knew what the issue was. NEVER shoot jacketed factory ammo. IMHO, but experienced, opinion. A .3105" bullet going down .314" cylinder throat into a barrel with .010" cylinder gap makes problems.

HOWEVER, all is not lost, shoot soft bullets, cast .314", with not less than 3.0 grains of Bullseye or Titegroup. It may just be fine.
 
oscarflytyer

oscarflytyer

Well-Known Member
RicinYakima said:
Shooting post-WWII jacketed bullet ammo that was loaded to 725 f/s and 8500 cup pressure specifications. Doing research for an article in this years Fouling Shot, I stuck a bullet in a like new Colt Army Special. When it didn't register on the Chrony, I knew what the issue was. NEVER shoot jacketed factory ammo. IMHO, but experienced, opinion. A .3105" bullet going down .314" cylinder throat into a barrel with .010" cylinder gap makes problems.

HOWEVER, all is not lost, shoot soft bullets, cast .314", with not less than 3.0 grains of Bullseye or Titegroup. It may just be fine.
Click to expand...

Ric - GREAT advice, and I get it. If it were a high pressure rifle, I DEF would not shoot it. But... I intend to only shoot cast, .314 (NOE mold), 20/30:1 or scrap + tad tin, ~850-950 fps. Should not stick a bullet, but not push pressure either. Bore is only fair, so know I need fat bullet. This gun is VERY tight for what I THINK is a 110 yo revolver! Not been abused (or again, a No GO), although thoroughly used. If it doesn't keyhole and 'smith gives a thumbs up, it stays. Thanx
 
Bret4207

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
I've seen a few barrels with the dreaded "loose spot". Some shot fine, others didn't. Try it and see is all you can do.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.