6-6-6-1 lube

Rcmaveric

Active Member
I am behind on the lube articles then. Didn't even know there was SL-71B. I just copied that to my Lube Cook Book. I have a batch of SL-68B i made that's been sitting on the bench for a few weeks waiting for the sizer to empty. Didn't expect the smell of that to permeate the house so well and quickly.
 

KHornet

Well-Known Member
The only lube I have cooked up in probably the last 25-30+ years has
been Ben's Red, just out of my respect and faith in Ben's testing. Other
than that I have ignored the mess, and gone with commercial lubes,
primarily with LAR's formula. They are reasonable, and I have no mess.
However even in using them, all the bullets I cast and lube are given at
least one coat of BLL, and I am a firm believer that Bll is truly a gift to
all casters who use it.

Paul
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
666+1 lube is soft and sticky like felix lube is.
you can squish it in your hand like a soft clay.
it's sole purpose was/is to get the first shot out the barrel and on a game animal in the winter.
usually the first shot is repairing the wax haze in the barrel from it drying out or oxidizing, and is why the shot generally goes a bit higher.
the lube being soft and slick overcomes that 'repair' by lowering the friction in the barrel to what a second or third shot would normally be.

one of the interesting things that come out of the lube quest was in finding that you could lower the first shot's powder amount by about 4% and it would go in the group.
 

Elkins45

Active Member
666+1 lube is soft and sticky like felix lube is.
you can squish it in your hand like a soft clay.
it's sole purpose was/is to get the first shot out the barrel and on a game animal in the winter.
usually the first shot is repairing the wax haze in the barrel from it drying out or oxidizing, and is why the shot generally goes a bit higher.
the lube being soft and slick overcomes that 'repair' by lowering the friction in the barrel to what a second or third shot would normally be.

one of the interesting things that come out of the lube quest was in finding that you could lower the first shot's powder amount by about 4% and it would go in the group.
Not it’s sole purpose to me. To me it’s my baseline testing lube for a new rifle bullet. When I get a new mold and I want to see if a rifle likes it I will use 666+1 as the testing lube. Unlike some other experiments I have tried, it seems to have never had a negative effect on accuracy. I keep my 45 filled with 666+1, my 4500 filled with Felix and my LAMII has whatever is my latest experimental goop. I generally test the new goop against the other two known lubes. And 666+1 is generally what all my handgun bullets are lubed with these days.

Now if you’re looking for a lube to turn a 2” rifle into a 10” rifle then boy do I have a formula for you...
 

Volume One

New Member
Hello,

If you re-melt the 666-1 blocks in a pot at a low temp, does the ivory separate out of the mix?

I'm wondering if 666-1 blocks could be stored and then later used as a pan lube.

Thanks.
 

OFFSHORE

New Member
I would not pan lube with it or remelt it once made.

I have started using this lube in my Star sizer and melting it in order to fill the unit. Why shouldn't it be re-melted? Just wanting to know because if that is the case, I'm done fooling with it. . .it is to much of a PITA to get all the air bubbles out and get good fill in the lube grooves any other way.
 

Barn

Active Member
I pour all of the lube that I make into a foil lined cake pan with a thickness of about 1/4" to 3/8" thickness. I then cut the lube slab into 8 pieces. To put it into my Star I set a piece on the top of the tube and press down on the lube. I do this until I have the fill desired. I have not had much of a air bubble problem using this method.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
you can over fill that star slightly to extrude that ribbon of lube and it will generally push the air pockets out of lube also.
then you return that extruded lube and overfill with the next batch of lube just to let it extrude out the hole also.

I do that on purpose with my moly complex lube.
the extrusion seems to help it settle down and combine all of the ingredients better than heating and cooling does.
 

Will

Well-Known Member
I have started using this lube in my Star sizer and melting it in order to fill the unit. Why shouldn't it be re-melted? Just wanting to know because if that is the case, I'm done fooling with it. . .it is to much of a PITA to get all the air bubbles out and get good fill in the lube grooves any other way.

I can’t see the whole mix actually melting down and staying together. There’s way to many different melting points in this lube. The beeswax is going to scorch long before you get the hot enough to keep everything mixed.
 

Volume One

New Member
I have started using this lube in my Star sizer and melting it in order to fill the unit. Why shouldn't it be re-melted? Just wanting to know because if that is the case, I'm done fooling with it. . .it is to much of a PITA to get all the air bubbles out and get good fill in the lube grooves any other way.

This is an interesting remark. Some lead alloys contain antimony, which has a much higher melting point than does lead, yet antimony melts a a low temp if it has already been alloyed with lead.

I guess it takes experimentation to know if 666-1 might behave the same way if it is remelted.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
it should be homogenous.
but what happens is if the soap isn't incorporated at high temperatures it fails to form a cross linked Gel with the oils in the lube.
so it stratifies in the mix floating around instead of becoming part of the whole.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Pariffin is the reason it stratifies when remelted. I have made soap grease with every pair of waxes and oils and added different pairs together to see what happens and the only time separation is really a problem is when paraffin is added to bw and petrolatum.

If you remelt it and pour it in a tube, it will layer with most of the soap separating and floating to the top.

I do what Barn does, pour it in a lined pan where it can solidify before it separates, then cut into strips and pack in the reservoir by hand.
 
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OFFSHORE

New Member
Alright, well here is another question for you. How do you know that the soap or any other ingredient has separated? I just dug a section out of my soup can and "visually" can not see a difference or any layers between the multi-melted batch and my cut strips. I too make a big batch and pour into a 9"x9" pan then cut it into strips. If that is the case, then I need to discard what is in my lube sizer and melting can and clean off all the boolits that I sized/lubed yesterday - yes/no?
 

Ian

Notorious member
If yours didn't separate, then don't sweat it. Every time I melted Gulf wax and Ivory soap with other waxes, even at low percentages of soap, the soap wanted to float out.