9 mm with BLL
- Thread starter Brad
- Start date
I have given up on BLL for the 9 mm for the time being. My SL68 variation seems to be doing much better at both preventing leading and giving good accuracy.
In time I will go back to BLL for the 9m. But I need to do some alloy tweaking and see what size will do best with that lube system. No time for that right now.
I have no doubt BLL is a very good lube, I just haven't found out how to make it work in my 9mm. Yet.
In time I will go back to BLL for the 9m. But I need to do some alloy tweaking and see what size will do best with that lube system. No time for that right now.
I have no doubt BLL is a very good lube, I just haven't found out how to make it work in my 9mm. Yet.
9
9.3X62AL
Guest
The 9mm Parabellum is ANYTHING BUT a lead-friendly handgun caliber. Given its usual environment--high pressures, over-fast rifling twist rates, and poetic adherence to dimensional "standards"--the caliber can be a daunting challenge with poured bullets.
Mine seems very prone to leading in the first 1/2 inch of the barrel. I have tried harder and softer bullets. Different lubes, different sizes. So far softer bullets, air cooled range scrap, and a traditional lube seem to do best.
I refuse to let this thing beat me.
I refuse to let this thing beat me.
I got it figured out, finally. Shot some bullets that I cast from the HM2 mould you designed. These had been coated with Hi-tek a year or more ago. I decided to size then to just over .358 and lube them with the SL68 variant I made. After 200 rounds I ran a dry patch thru the bore and no lead.
I think I was sizing them too large before. The Lee 120 TC casts a bit too small and it leads.
I was tickled pink to get something that worked.
I think I was sizing them too large before. The Lee 120 TC casts a bit too small and it leads.
I was tickled pink to get something that worked.
It really isn't so bad. For simple storage a single coat would work. With a couple racks it goes fast. I can get 200-300 on a rack for 9mm. At 10 minutes it isn't too bad. I use the down time to get the next batch ready. Figure a couple hours to do 3-4000 with no trouble.
The coating does stop the oxidation. I think for storage it would work very well for that. With a traditional lube on top of it it shoots very well.
With a single coat a "kit" that runs 70 bucks or so will do 30K + bullets. Cost really isn't an issue.
The coating does stop the oxidation. I think for storage it would work very well for that. With a traditional lube on top of it it shoots very well.
With a single coat a "kit" that runs 70 bucks or so will do 30K + bullets. Cost really isn't an issue.
fiver
Well-Known Member
that reasonable cost and such is why I keep looking at it.
if I could get the oven in the garage/shop [which I can't] I'd then have some minor incentive to try powder coating too and I just can't bring myself to do that.
I'm to the point of realizing what the term 'set in your way's' means.
it just means YOU HAVEN'T LEARNED ANYTHING ABOUT WHAT YOU BEEN LEARNING ALL YOUR LIFE.
if I could get the oven in the garage/shop [which I can't] I'd then have some minor incentive to try powder coating too and I just can't bring myself to do that.
I'm to the point of realizing what the term 'set in your way's' means.
it just means YOU HAVEN'T LEARNED ANYTHING ABOUT WHAT YOU BEEN LEARNING ALL YOUR LIFE.
I bought a small counter top convection oven at Menards on sale for 40 bucks. It does well for this sort of stuff. Get rid of some fishing stuff and you would have room!
Powder coating doesn't interest me much. Seems that some of the coatings can vary in thickness a bit from bullet to bullet. The ones I had a guy coat sure did. The different colors also shows a huge difference in ease of running them thru a sizer.
Powder coating doesn't interest me much. Seems that some of the coatings can vary in thickness a bit from bullet to bullet. The ones I had a guy coat sure did. The different colors also shows a huge difference in ease of running them thru a sizer.
Ian
Notorious member
I just went through the Goldilocks routine a while back with my DI-45. Macon cuts the chamber and throat with a boring bar and it's great for cast bullets (actually HAS a throat) but won't take a .4525" cast bullet loaded in a typical case after a few shots worth of fouling accumulates. Plus, it leaded the throat and gas system to buggary due to lead scraping off on the sharp, .4517-ish throat entrance. Being a unique chamber cut and having a long, tapered throat, I'm not inclined to try to monkey with the throat diameter. Finally went all the way down to a .451" die and size all the bullets within a couple days of casting to get them to about .4513". ALL leading stopped and I can go hundreds of rounds between cleanings with no malfunctions. I'm using SL-68, through, BLL goobers the gas system up when the gun cools off and makes the next first few rounds short-cycle. SL-68 shoots clean and dry so no problems there.
Ian
Notorious member
Rub it in, Pal.....
Fired 200 rounds in my CZ75 today. With BLL and a bullet, cast from range scrap, sized .358 I had minimal leading. Most of the lead was pushed out with a damp patch. I have had far worse with regular lubes in this gun.
I want to heat treat some of these bullets and see what difference that makes. Might be better, might be worse. I will find out.
I feel encouraged by what I saw today.
I want to heat treat some of these bullets and see what difference that makes. Might be better, might be worse. I will find out.
I feel encouraged by what I saw today.
Winelover
North Central Arkansas
Use to use NRA 50-50, then switched over to Carnuba Red....less tacky. I own two 9's.....Browning HP and Beretta Nano. Never slugged either one. Use same loads for both without any leading. I own exactly two moulds for 9mm.......RCBS 125 RNGC and Lyman 356402 a 120 TC. Powder is either 5.0 grs of Unique or 4.0 grs of Bullseye. Not exactly light loads, but required for 100% reliability.