9mm case length, how crucial?

I found your comments regarding S&B brass interesting. Using my Dillon 550B I get primers that are not fully seated or are difficult to seat/ This experience includes primers from all the domestic and foreign makes. Given the present primer shortage and being forced to use Bosnian made primers that are consistently difficult to seat in Win., Rem, and Federal brass I am now seating primers using a RCBS bench primers seating tool that works perfectly. I could go back and use S&B brass. I have probably two life times supply of Win,Rem and Fedral brass so there really is no need. Good to hear though you are able to use the S&B without issue.

Take Care

Bob
 

JonB

Halcyon member
I don't trim pistol brass.

As to 9mm Luger, I do sort by headstamp, just like all other calibers I load. I don't crimp 9mm because they headspace off the case mouth mostly. If I ever had some 9mm brass that wouldn't chamber due to brass being too long, I'd just cull them. Now is as good of a time to mention, I cull certain 9mm headstamps when sorting them: AMERC, S&B, ARMSCOR, A USA, all the NT flavors as they have larger flash hole, and any with the internal ledge. Those may be successfully loaded, a certain percentage anyway, but I find they give me more problems than the other brands.

Speaking of cases and trimming of other calibers ...Once, I ran across some 41 mag cases that were too long to crimp properly, I believe they were WW Super. So I ordered a Lee case gauge (for trimming), but decided to not trim them, and save them for use in a loading shot experiment, which will probably never happen, LOL.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
Bob, I don't own a progressive press. Most all my hand loading is done on a single stage using the batch loading method. Even my turret is set up that way, for rifle cartridges. I normally install primers with a RCBS bench mounted tool. This last batch of 9 mm were loaded with Tula SP primers. Usually stick with CCI SPP, when given the choice. Tulas go bang, most of the time, and are sometimes tight in American manufactured brass. I probably won't purchase them again. In 38 Special, I average one in ten FTF with the Tulas. It doesn't matter which of the multiple 38's I'm shooting.
 
Winelover if you are experiencing light strikes with your revolvers (S&W?) you should check the mainspring screw if you have not already. I have the mainspring retaining screw loc tightened with blue loctite and ensure your primers are firmly placed. I know folks claim the Tulas are harder to set off but that has not been my experience. Now I use most in pistols rather than revolvers but even there my GP-100 has no issues using them with very light springs. The gun is set up for IDPA competition with a lighter than factory trigger pull. One in ten failures is really outside the norm for even Tulas.

For some reason the European primers often hard hard to seat. I know the Bosnian marked primers (I think they are Russian and are marketed through Bosnia to evade import restriction on Russian products) are difficult to seat see my post above.

Merry Christmas

Bob
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
My Tula primers,large at least, are a snug fit in 45 acp. Oddly they are fine in 45 Colt and 44 special.
 

dale2242

Well-Known Member
I might mention that I am a little anal.
I do separate my pistol brass by headstamp.
I decap and SS pin tumble them.
My pistol ammo is loaded on a P200.
Not exactly a progress but faster than single stage.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
Bob: Yes, some are S&W J-frames. However, when an occasional Tula primers doesn't fire after two strikes, I try them in a different revolver. Usually, another brand, like my Python or LCR. Still FTF with significant indents from repeated firing pin strikes. I chalk them up to bad primers. CCI primers are known for hard cups and that's pretty much all I use. Only time I ever had FTF were with the Python, after it was about 20 years old. Changed out the weak V spring and all was good again. Thought I'd try the Tulas during the last shortage. Won't be purchasing them again.
 

popper

Well-Known Member
Think about it. Rifle bottleneck cases grow from pulling the expander OUT. Pistol cases get the expander pushed IN. If you crimp and the neck needs to be in the same place each case, trim. Simple.
 

RBHarter

West Central AR
Not long ago I saw an article that used 45 ACP as a guide looking for the shrinking case answer and where the metal was actually going .
In the 45 ACP it would appear that the extractor groove collapses , not all at once , but it does .

I don't remember the last time I had brand new 9mm brass , maybe 13-14' for some WW PD stuff . Maybe tomorrow I'll dig out one of those and one of the cases that is getting short on head stamp and stand them up SxS for a picture .

Really that's the thing isn't it , if we have a case under or even right at max length and it gets shorter every time then trimming is ..... Superfluous . (I wanted a bigger word .......)