Charles Graff
Moderator Emeritus
Yep, no matter how you heat them, if they get hot enough to anneal they will have that black crap on them. It just isn't an issue, unless folks just have to have shiney checks.
Annealing Gas Checks
- Thread starter 4and1
- Start date
fiver
Well-Known Member
it don't really matter what color they are.
nobody is gonna see them and your not gonna go get them back.
I anneal a lot of my bullet jackets and those I don't want all gooey looking, nor do I want that scale going in my expensive dies.
so I pin tumble them, and dry tumble them to get the shiny copper color back.
and then roll them with some copper BB's after they are formed and ready to shoot.
I'm not going through all that for a gas check.
nobody is gonna see them and your not gonna go get them back.
I anneal a lot of my bullet jackets and those I don't want all gooey looking, nor do I want that scale going in my expensive dies.
so I pin tumble them, and dry tumble them to get the shiny copper color back.
and then roll them with some copper BB's after they are formed and ready to shoot.
I'm not going through all that for a gas check.
4and1
Member
fiver, I got some Sierra .750 jackets that were tarnished. I had an old "kit" from somewhere that was for dipping brass cases in to make them look new, so I did for these jackets. It sure cleaned them up, but you sure have to rinse them. I never have annealed jackets, the ones I have are from either Sierra, J4 or Hines (barts) and they are in good shape. Do you feel it helps? Is it in core seating or point up?
fiver
Well-Known Member
it does with the RCE jackets for sure.
I also anneal them full of core metal so they get bonded together, then cleaned and formed in the same day before the alloy has a chance to set up.
pin tumbled again, then waxed after the BB treatment, and a trip through the canellure tool to help retain the core just in case.
J-4's I was [still am] using mostly for smaller stuff like coyotes and ground squirrels but they form easy enough with no wrinkles or whatever and they are super thin with a low zinc content so they don't need it.
Sierra jackets probably don't need it but I use them for hunting so they get annealed as part of the bonding process too.
I have some Berger Jackets but haven't messed with them just yet, my initial impression is they seem to be a little thicker so probably will work just fine for hunting without too much trouble.
only problem is I gotta make some and shoot some deer with them to find out.
for target shooting.
I'd kind of make the call on exactly what my barrel and PF/CS dies measure.
if I was a little undersize or oversize with my bullets I'd give the annealing a shot and try some groups for sure.
I also anneal them full of core metal so they get bonded together, then cleaned and formed in the same day before the alloy has a chance to set up.
pin tumbled again, then waxed after the BB treatment, and a trip through the canellure tool to help retain the core just in case.
J-4's I was [still am] using mostly for smaller stuff like coyotes and ground squirrels but they form easy enough with no wrinkles or whatever and they are super thin with a low zinc content so they don't need it.
Sierra jackets probably don't need it but I use them for hunting so they get annealed as part of the bonding process too.
I have some Berger Jackets but haven't messed with them just yet, my initial impression is they seem to be a little thicker so probably will work just fine for hunting without too much trouble.
only problem is I gotta make some and shoot some deer with them to find out.
for target shooting.
I'd kind of make the call on exactly what my barrel and PF/CS dies measure.
if I was a little undersize or oversize with my bullets I'd give the annealing a shot and try some groups for sure.