Article #6: Cast bullet lubrication

Ian

Notorious member
The Basement Articles #6: Cast bullet lubrication


After more than four years of non-stop testing by my myself and a few other dedicated accuracy enthusiasts, and an ongoing, 2400-some post thread on another site documenting the endeavor, I'm going to attempt to condense the essential information we've gathered about cast bullet lubrication into a single post.


I think I might even be able to do it in a single sentence: An effective cast bullet lubricant provides a fluid film barrier between the bullet and barrel during the firing event, leaves the surface of the bore the same condition shot-to-shot, and completely departs the bullet at the muzzle to prevent balance disturbances farther downrange.


Sounds simple, doesn't it?


I thought for many years that the most important qualities a bullet lube could possess were the correct "lubricity", or slickness, and the correct overall viscosity for the pressure and velocity of the load. I also thought that lube acted somewhat as a "ballistic stop leak", to put it in Glen Fryxell's terminology.


While I maintain that lube does actually help a teeny, tiny bit to obturate the bullet, I think it's on a much smaller scale than I once did. As for lubricity and viscosity, I have a different way of looking at that now, too. If a lube is too slippery, it can behave unpredictably in the bore, causing the bullet to stutter and skip, or even hydroplane as a car can on a wet, uneven road. Viscosity, defined as resistance to flow, is less important than shear stability and what Runfiverun and Eutectic have recently brought up with the subject of "wipe pressure".


Eutectic's concept of Consistency Of Residuals Encountered, or CORE, is the solid gold key to achieving an accurate-shooting bullet lubricant. Building a lube formula that leaves the bore in a stable, repeatable condition shot after shot, in any weather, any temperature, five seconds after the last shot from a hot barrel or the first shot from a cold barrel five days later does more for accuracy than just about any other single factor I can think of. Observing the residue around the first bullet hole in a target fired from a cold barrel previously fouled with the same lube tells a tale, as does where that first shot lands compared to the following shots in the group. Observing what's left in the bore by a given lube also gives us clues, and testing dozens upon dozens of formulas, compiling data, and studying the effects of many different lube ingredients begins to paint a picture of what substances work and which ones don't.


The last factor I mentioned in the first post has proven to be very important, too. I started devising "jettison tests" a few years ago where I shoot through clean cardboard at a distance of just a few inches to observe the pattern and and size of the lube droplets, and also observe how dirty they are, and the relative state of the lube as it flew off, or failed to fly off of the bullet. I look for a dirty, atomized mist. Chunks of clean lube show that at least the bulk of it wasn't reaching the liquid state under pressure, and therefore not doing any good. Making it out of the gun and flying out of the grooves in chunks can slightly destabilize the bullet and open up groups. Making it halfway or more to the target before losing all of the lube, or making it to the target with a few bits still in the grooves is even worse. It may not sound like much, but a speck of lube hanging in the edge of a groove at 150,000 rpm or more can play hoc with accuracy. A lube that goes liquid in the barrel is likely to purge more consistently each shot, not hurt things if a blob is blown ahead of the bullet and "run over" later down the tube, and wipe more completely away each shot leaving less behind to affect the next shot. Leaving a minimum behind is the easiest way to control the effects of WHAT is left behind.


Waxes have been our nemesis from the start. The current evolution of Thick 'n' Thin, or TnT lube, which is essentially an ester-based, NLGI #6+ sodium brick grease, leaves very little behind, is soft, jettisons well, flows well in the cold yet won't melt even at take-your-skin-right-off temperatures, has very little bleed, doesn't build up in the barrel, doesn't leave enough oil behind to cause cyclic purging, and works at low and fairly high velocities. Another formula, which has proven over the past couple of years to be up to all of the aforementioned tasks and has done even better at high velocity is another soap lube, experiment #68, or "SL-68". Member JonB has been making and testing this formula along with myself and Brad, and some other advantages we have observed with this formula is how "dry" it shoots, meaning that it leaves little to no oily residue on the outside of revolvers, in the gas systems of self-loading guns, or in the action/magazines of self-loading pistols. It has a melt point of nearly 300 degrees F, quite the advantage in hot summer weather, yet in below-freezing cold, the lube remains pliable. In tests from 105F to minus 7F it has held its own. While the "Quest" for a truly universal, all weather, all temperature, all load level lube that can tolerate a variety of bore finishes and lube groove designs well may never be fulfilled, we have a few things that fill the bill pretty well so far.

Ian

Link to Article #7:http://www.artfulbullet.com/index.php?threads/article-7-crafting-accurate-ammunition.139/
 
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Pistolero

Well-Known Member
Real interesting, Ian, and I can't tell you how impressed I am with you guys putting in such a long
time and so much effort in a massive research project like this. Is there a recipe out there to try?
And how difficult are the ingredients to locate and properly combine into a lube?
 

smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
A phenomena having to do with greases and lubricity that I became aware of about 14 years ago, is that too much grease, regardless of lubricity, can actually increase friction and therefore heat. Much of my last decade in the motion picture industry was spent as a maintenance engineer on high speed film printers and developers. Because of the caustic chemicals necessary in the developing of the film, materials and assemblies (bearings in particular) have a limited life span. Flange blocks (cousin to pillow blocks), which supported film roller shafts were subject to failure at frequent intervals. This was despite being subjected to loads and RPMs far below their specified ratings.
One day I got on the phone with one of the engineers at SKF Bearing and discussed our flange block failures. Turned out that because our maintenance techs in an effort to keep the bleaches and acids from infiltrating the bearing units, were completely filling the races with grease, the balls were having to slog their way through a grease filled channel. Just as a surface will heat when subjected to a steady stream of high velocity air, surfaces will also heat up from exposure to even moderate velocities of a higher density, more viscus media.
After teaching our techs to only give one squirt of grease, each time they serviced flange blocks, service life increased by 20 to 30%.

The old saying, "too much of a good thing" is quite relevant in the case of lubricants.

The way I see this relating to bullet lube is, an over-abundance of or overly viscus lube left behind in a bore may actually create more resistance, more friction and more heat by all the bullets that follow and can certainly have a cumulative effect. Also, this will result in the first bullet through a clean bore behaving far differently from those that follow.
 

Ben

Moderator
Staff member
I'm not even close to understanding why or how bullet lube does what it does !

I am smart enough that when I make a lube recipe that works well, I'll record the exact contents and proportions of each component in the lube.

Then, I'm able to repeat the process if the lube is a success .

I only know when it works or when it doesn't work.

I'm totally unclear of exactly what it is doing or how it does it ?

Ben
 

Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
Preventing leading is actually pretty easy. Getting accuracy over the long haul is the hard part.
Having bore condition as consistant from shot to shot as humanly possible is the real key.
 

smokeywolf

Well-Known Member
Ben, whether or not your degree is in chemistry or one of the physics disciplines, you have been highly successful with your lube recipes. As an example of my confidence in your recipes, I just procured 6 cans of Johnson's one step.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
smokey what happens is the lube overheats, and quits lubing that's the short version. [I know duh,, right]
what really happens is the stearate used goes into a lock-up mode and it will not allow the oils to leave the grease and do it's job.
or the reverse happens and it dumps all the oil out of the stearate binder solid matrix allowing it to just flow away from where it's needed.
it's called caking and you know it happened by the smell.

a boolit lube is super duper close to a grease matrix in how the ingredients relate to each other and the oils being held in suspension to be released under pressure and heat.
what we are doing is modifying when, where, and how the oils/solids are being released under different pressure, friction, and temperature conditions.

what's left behind is what causes all of our issues with or are the benefactors for the next shot.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Smokey, to get shot-to-shot consistency like Brad mentioned, a wet bore needs to have exactly the same friction characteristics as a dry bore, meaning the lube should provide some resistance or "friction" to the bullet's travel. We do this by using a lube with a viscosity rated for, say, 20 rpm plain bearings and putting it in a one-million-plus-dN situation, where the viscosity alone causes drag and friction heat.

A lube loaded heavily with sodium thickener will actually increase velocity 1-200 fps over a straight wax/oil lube, but will shoot more consistently from first shot to last because the hot, fouled bore offers similar friction characteristics to a cold, clean one. It also heats the barrel faster. If a bullet lubricant leaves a greasy, slick feeling on the fingers that won't wipe away with just a dry rag, it may change the point of impact as the barrel heats up, and then throw the next shot after a cooling period. The lube also needs to purge or wipe uniformly after every shot, otherwise it will accumulate and purge every few shots. We see that a lot with lubes that release too much oil in the bore, or de-oil too easily and dump excess wax or thickener behind, or blend too well with powder residue and make gum in the bore.
 

Paden

Active Member
An effective cast bullet lubricant provides a fluid film barrier between the bullet and barrel during the firing event, leaves the surface of the bore the same condition shot-to-shot, and completely departs the bullet at the muzzle to prevent balance disturbances farther downrange.
I claim to be neither chemist nor engineer, and have not yet attempted cooking my own lube... Regarding subject of lube completely parting ways with bullet upon exit of muzzle: I have yet to observe ANY commercially available lube simultaneously demonstrate desired performance in the bore AND a propensity to part ways with it's host upon exit. Fully naked bullets recovered from backstop are scarce as hens teeth. Is the holy grail only theoretically attainable?
 

Ian

Notorious member
Fiver will tell you it either needs to "all stay or all go" at the muzzle, and I couldn't agree more. The very thing that got me to changing around conventional recipes and eventually striking out on my own was the observation of flecks of lube on 100-yard targets accompanying not-so-good groups from a known-good load developed on a warmer day. I added more of the softening ingredients and both the flyers and the flecks went away. Since then I've payed close attention to jettison patterns, shooting both rifles and handguns through cardboard at point-blank range to see what the lube was doing. Without exception, those that fully atomize at the muzzle at all temperatures I encounter when shooting, shoot consistently the best. Developing a lube that goes liquid under pressure alone, not requiring much heat from firing to change state, extends the useful low temperature range of a given formula and the range of guns/loads with which it works well. I have really good luck with softer lubes, ones just barely firm enough to handle when put in the grooves and require no heat at all to easily go through a lube-sizer. So yes, the "holy grail" is obtainable, but to make it work in both hot and cold it requires a whole bunch of thickener like sodium or lithium stearate to keep it from getting runny in the heat yet be soft in the cold. Some people have really good luck with various rock-hard lubes, but I'm not one of them.
 

Paden

Active Member
Fiver will tell you it either needs to "all stay or all go" at the muzzle, and I couldn't agree more.....Some people have really good luck with various rock-hard lubes, but I'm not one of them.
Agree completely, and fully understand the theory. Certainly, even the most tenacious goop will erode under drag of flight, and likely not consistently, effecting steerage and stability. Preference would be to loose all the baggage upon muzzle exit and present a 'clean' aerodynamic surface during flight... My current bullet and lube is depicted in my avatar (345gr .45 Colt). My ambient operational temps run -40F. to about +80F. The LBT Blue is treating me well internally, but it definitely doesn't all jettison at the muzzle. At least some of it typically takes the ride all the way to the 100 yd backstop. This gun/load cuts cloverleafs at 50 ft, and tho it's still minute of moose at 100 yds, it has plenty of room for improvement. Shedding the lube before the trip would likely help a bunch.
 
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KHornet

Well-Known Member
I am just glad that there are folks who like to test and try different lubes. I am also glad that LAR's White Label exists, as it works well for me, particularly the 2500, and have about 5 years supply of the stuff. When that runs out, will probably commit to Ben's Red.