Bench Top
- Thread starter Tony
- Start date
Todd M
Craftsman of metals...always learning.
Thanks guys for all the pictures and descriptions. We will be moving to the first property we have ever owned in the next month or so. Will be living in a camper and building a house, but thankfully there are a couple outbuildings existing for storage and welding. My loading n casting setup will shrink for the time being. Soaking up the ideas.
Ian
Notorious member
Congratulations, there's nothing quite like the feeling of having a patch of dirt to call your own.
I did the same thing, but before wife and baby. The best advice I ever got regarding life plans was "FIRST, build your shop. THEN build your house". I did that, but ended up converting the shop to a house and am years later still trying to make up for the lost shop and indoor vehicle storage space. At least you have a little covered/enclosed space already to store tools/materials while you work.
Todd M
Craftsman of metals...always learning.
Thanks Ian! We have been designing/drawing our house since before we got married. It is first since the existing "shop" will be adequate until the house is done. Just 20 minutes ago I bought 4 Filbert/Hazelnut trees from my landlord for $20. They are planted in the garden currently soaking up a big drink of water. Will transplant them when we move.
No need to derail this thread, I'll start a new one in General Discussions to share our journey.
No need to derail this thread, I'll start a new one in General Discussions to share our journey.
Nice inspiration on the loading benches!Got me started.Gonna bend up some gauge metal for a riser between upper/lower Kennedy box (early,old,well preserved).Got a nice 12X12 surface plate and a cpl fixtures that need to vacate the benchtop.
Wrinkle brown,never can remember the wrinkle recipe.There's a tung oil version,a laquer vs enamel one,and also a shove uncured enamel in an oven method?.....well,you can also cheat and buy wrinkle spraybomb and recoat colour du jour,but that's cheating.Just don't do enough wrinkle to remember.Same with the hammertone,CRS.
Wrinkle brown,never can remember the wrinkle recipe.There's a tung oil version,a laquer vs enamel one,and also a shove uncured enamel in an oven method?.....well,you can also cheat and buy wrinkle spraybomb and recoat colour du jour,but that's cheating.Just don't do enough wrinkle to remember.Same with the hammertone,CRS.
Catshooter
Member
I use 1/4 inch Masonite over two layers of 3/4 inch CDX plywood. Replace the Masonite as needed.
Cat
Cat
Chris Stephenson
Member
I recently built a total of 22' of bench in my garage (10' for the wife). The part of the bench I reload on is just 1" fine plywood polyurethaned. This I cover with door mats for the padding. But the "hot" corner is covered with 12X24" ceramic tile, 3 feet back from the corners in each direction. The wife likes to play with molten glass and I like molten lead, so we needed something that neither of us could set on fire. Next I need to work on a ventilation system...
Chris
Chris
oscarflytyer
Well-Known Member
I am with Brad. Double thickness of 3/4 plywood. UNLESS I could get a 2" thick custom cut wide tree slab. Then I would use that. And anchor it to the wall.
Martini 38-55
New Member
My casting bench is an old formica covered kitchen table in the garage. The loading bench in the basement is a Sears workshop cabinet, three drawers on the right, large compartment on the left, 4' wide. I used two layers of 3/4" plywood with the factory chipboard on top, moved it over so that there was about 4" of overhang on the left side, almost zero on the right, and mounted the Rock Chucker on the left overhang, with a piece of 4x4 right under the press so that loading forces would go straight to the floor. The lubrisizer is on the right side. I have a shelf attached to the wall above the bench so that a balance scale is at eye level, though I now use a Dillon electronic scale, and I have a couple of powder measures just to the right of the press on the same shelf. Operating the press doesn't bother the scale or the powder measure.
Wish all I had to do was develop vent system's for shop N benches.... doh.
Google images of Filter 1,Benchtron "backdraft" sanding/grinding/finishing ,stations.
Basically,you have 3 choices.... up,down,and back,draft systems.First is the "plumbing"(duct arrangements)....second is,type and balls of the fan,third is what... if any,filtration(can be a total loss system,not requiring recuirculated air).
My last system was a total loss,utilizing an eBay procured 6" ,inline "duct fan".Ancient Lyman pot was housed in a custom enclosure with a custom rolled "hoody" venting outside.It was up draft.... and worked the treat.
If I wuz building from scratch,no holds barred,would go back draft,recuirculated, on a reloading bench with an auto,solenoid to vent to outside when casting.All sounds WAY more complicated than the build BTW.
ALL good,best of luck with your project. BWS
Google images of Filter 1,Benchtron "backdraft" sanding/grinding/finishing ,stations.
Basically,you have 3 choices.... up,down,and back,draft systems.First is the "plumbing"(duct arrangements)....second is,type and balls of the fan,third is what... if any,filtration(can be a total loss system,not requiring recuirculated air).
My last system was a total loss,utilizing an eBay procured 6" ,inline "duct fan".Ancient Lyman pot was housed in a custom enclosure with a custom rolled "hoody" venting outside.It was up draft.... and worked the treat.
If I wuz building from scratch,no holds barred,would go back draft,recuirculated, on a reloading bench with an auto,solenoid to vent to outside when casting.All sounds WAY more complicated than the build BTW.
ALL good,best of luck with your project. BWS
Winelover
North Central Arkansas
Ready made 6' Formica "Butcher Block" top from one of the big box stores. I'm guessing "Handy Andy" precursor to Home Depot and Lowe's. Held up really well from the mid 70's. So well, I had the movers load it when we moved from Michigan to Arkansas.
When it was in Michigan
Current location
I cast out doors, either in the garage................. or downstairs, just outside of my reloading shop, depending on weather and wind direction. I use a Black and Decker Workmate with a piece of scrap OSB clamped on top.
When it was in Michigan
Current location
I cast out doors, either in the garage................. or downstairs, just outside of my reloading shop, depending on weather and wind direction. I use a Black and Decker Workmate with a piece of scrap OSB clamped on top.
M3845708Bama
Active Member
Tony, I use to work for company that made the Lab counter tops, and they were not epoxy. They were formed crystals which were put into a high pressure press and formed into sheets. A regular drill will only scratch the surface. to put holes or to cut would require a diamond drill or saw. I have started using a double layer of 3/4" MDF soaked with a number of coats of sander sealer. It has a pleasing brown colar and really holds up. I even use the same style tops in machine shop room and wood working rooms. Oil and grease wipes right off with a paper towel. I have one that has been moved to three different states and still is solid as a rock.
Grizzled Tom
New Member
I opted for Bama’s double layer MDF with multiple coats of sander sealer. I put the sander sealer on in thin coats. The MDF absorbed the first five coats before the finish began to build.
Bama left out an important tip that he was kind enough to share with me in person. We both glued the two pieces of MDF together with wood glue. We used screws installed from the bottom to attach the top layer of MDF to the bottom while the glue dried. When you install the screws, they cause a bulge in the top of the bottom layer of MDF as they protrude through the surface. To counteract this, I used a countersink bit to drill a through pilot hole from the top of the bottom sheet downwards prior to gluing the top sheet on. I installed the screws part way before gluing. The countersink prevents the bulge from interfering with top sheet, and partially installing the screws prior to gluing prevents the wood glue from dripping through the pilot holes prior to driving the screws the remainder of the way in.
I just finished a new bench, and I feel like an artist with a blank canvas...
Bama left out an important tip that he was kind enough to share with me in person. We both glued the two pieces of MDF together with wood glue. We used screws installed from the bottom to attach the top layer of MDF to the bottom while the glue dried. When you install the screws, they cause a bulge in the top of the bottom layer of MDF as they protrude through the surface. To counteract this, I used a countersink bit to drill a through pilot hole from the top of the bottom sheet downwards prior to gluing the top sheet on. I installed the screws part way before gluing. The countersink prevents the bulge from interfering with top sheet, and partially installing the screws prior to gluing prevents the wood glue from dripping through the pilot holes prior to driving the screws the remainder of the way in.
I just finished a new bench, and I feel like an artist with a blank canvas...
M3845708Bama
Active Member
Now for cabinets or shelving
Grizzled Tom
New Member
PS - i know I still have a lot of work to do, but the bench top is done. Next steps include:
- Install trim at bench/wall intersection to prevent primers from falling between any of the gaps.
- Install top cabinets for tool and die storage.
- Build wall-mount holders for common tools.
- Build an eye level stand or shelf for my scales.
- Install powder measure(s)
- Install Dillon progressive press, single stage press, and swage press.
