M3845708Bama
Active Member
For guys who run a dehumidifier, the air blown out is very dry and gets warm a wire mesh basket set so the outlet air flow a round and through the basket makes a great case dryer.
Case Cleaning the better way.
- Thread starter Rootmanslim
- Start date
Rootmanslim
Banned
"And I am a Luddite, ask Brad."
Then you need to move to the 3rd world as there are no knitting mills here anymore.
Then you need to move to the 3rd world as there are no knitting mills here anymore.
Rootmanslim
Banned
"Never have flash holes plugged with media....................I don't decap until after I tumble/vibrate my brass. Decapping pin guarantees that."
If you don't decap, you don't get clean primer pockets. Unlike Media, pins don't block primer pockets.
If you don't decap, you don't get clean primer pockets. Unlike Media, pins don't block primer pockets.
Not necessarily. I tumble before decapping and there's a really good chance I have the cleanest primer pockets you've ever seen. After decapping all primer pockets are uniformed with the Sinclair primer pocket tool.
Rootmanslim
Banned
No my pockets are the cleanest. There is no way media of any type can get into a primer pocket and clean it with the primer in place.
Amusing how any suggestion will always be shot down regardless of its accuracy.
Amusing how any suggestion will always be shot down regardless of its accuracy.
fiver
Well-Known Member
pins will get stuck in flash holes.
they don't get all the residue from a Winchester primer out either, unless you run the cases so long you can see through them.
they will also get stuck sideways in 25 caliber case necks and cause all kinds of grief if you miss one.
I just bought some lizard bedding stuff to try and it was sticking tight in 30 caliber cases in the dry tumbler, I had to pick it out of probably half the cases.
it might work for pistol cases and be the best thing since MRE's.[shrug]
neither system is perfect.
they don't get all the residue from a Winchester primer out either, unless you run the cases so long you can see through them.
they will also get stuck sideways in 25 caliber case necks and cause all kinds of grief if you miss one.
I just bought some lizard bedding stuff to try and it was sticking tight in 30 caliber cases in the dry tumbler, I had to pick it out of probably half the cases.
it might work for pistol cases and be the best thing since MRE's.[shrug]
neither system is perfect.
Nobody is shooting down your ideas, if you are happy with your method you should by all means use it, I'm the last one that will try to talk you out of it. BUT . . . Your way is not the only way. After decapping I uniform the primer pockets with the Sinclair pocket uniforming cutter, cut's the pocket down to the same depth as originally prepped new brass with the same tool. Bright shiny fresh new brass with flat square bottoms. Not even possible to tell from the primer pocket that brass has ever been fired. Every time you fire the round the primer pocket gets shallower. Pressure is not only sideways and out the muzzle, it is also rearward and with each firing the primer pocket gets a bit shallower. I uniform every loading rather than an attempt at cleaning.
Rootmanslim
Banned
Ah, ha your pockets are clean because you uniform them. I agree that uniforming is good unless you use Nosler brass.
I follow Glen Zediker's advice on all things.
I follow Glen Zediker's advice on all things.
Yes, re-read my original post here (#24) posted again here for your reading pleasure.
Cherokee
Medina, Ohio
Fiver - I use a fine media that I get in 40# bags, it does not stick in the flash hole and is very effective. Its available from Granger and other places. Can't find the link at the moment. Here it is http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2MVR5?Pid=search
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fiver
Well-Known Member
that's what I should have got.
I seen a bag of that pet stuff for 5$ and it's real soft, and dust free, so I thought I'd take a chance.
I thought maybe just maybe I could use it to apply wax to the cases and get off cheap, figuring the worst that happens is I dump it in the garden to fluff up the dirt and hold a little water.
I seen a bag of that pet stuff for 5$ and it's real soft, and dust free, so I thought I'd take a chance.
I thought maybe just maybe I could use it to apply wax to the cases and get off cheap, figuring the worst that happens is I dump it in the garden to fluff up the dirt and hold a little water.
Don't get them dirty in the first place?
Have never "cleaned" a case in 40+ years of handloading subscribing to the above. I will admit to Qtips and acetone inside necks.... and slightly down in the shoulder area however. But ya'll keep on,keeping on with the case cleaning ops....
Have never "cleaned" a case in 40+ years of handloading subscribing to the above. I will admit to Qtips and acetone inside necks.... and slightly down in the shoulder area however. But ya'll keep on,keeping on with the case cleaning ops....
Cherokee
Medina, Ohio
Turning to the question of cleaning itself, if I'm shooting in a clean environment (indoor range), generally no need to clean. However, when shooting outdoors, all manner of grit and grime can be picked up on the cases. Even indoor, the cases can pick up residue from previous shooters of who-know-what ammo, power and primer junk. Sizing "dirty" brass has scared some of my steel sizing dies in the past. With carbide dies today, not likely, but the cases can still be scared by grit on the cases, I have observed. When I first started loading with the 30/06 for my 1917 Enfield back in 1957, I just wiped the cases off and processed them. Soon they were dark, had a sticky feel to them and got tight in the sizing die; then I started cleaning them and it all went away...easy sizing, easy chambering, clean feel, and they looked nice. Accuracy did not change as I recall but I felt more confidence in my loads and my rifle chamber wasn't getting loaded up with junk. I continued the process with loading for handguns. YMMV.
CZ93X62
Official forum enigma
<----Luddite in good standing.
I have never tried liquid case cleaning in any significant amount. I went to Thumler tumblers about 30 years ago when my vibratory cleaner went hors de combat after 4 years of light usage. I have messed around with crushed walnut hulls, corn cob grit, treated vs. untreated--and have settled upon #14-#20 untreated corncob grit in the Thumlers. I am sure there are better/faster/cleaner ways to do this--but this is what I do.
I have never tried liquid case cleaning in any significant amount. I went to Thumler tumblers about 30 years ago when my vibratory cleaner went hors de combat after 4 years of light usage. I have messed around with crushed walnut hulls, corn cob grit, treated vs. untreated--and have settled upon #14-#20 untreated corncob grit in the Thumlers. I am sure there are better/faster/cleaner ways to do this--but this is what I do.
Your guns don't have eyes but I do and I take pride in what I make. I don't much care if someone else likes it or approves but what I produce is a matter of pride to me. Just like the time someone asked me why I would be so particular about the bullets I cast, he says once loaded you can't see much of them? I told him that I see them and I know they are the best I can make. So yep, I clean and shine up my brass too if for no other reason than I know they are the best I can make. Makes me feel good.
Rootmanslim
Banned
More misinformation. Annealing is not a surface treatment, it's all the way thru.