Chipper /Shredder issues!

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Finally got my Yardman 8 HP chipper/ Shredder working again since it was parked in the field since 2006!
Yes My Bad ...I was put in charge of storing it but I didn't have any place to park it in an enclosed structure....I had it well wrapped in a plastic tarp but the years deteriorated that. Never really paid attention to that but now that I'm at the point of retirement I can use the old beast again!
Well I had to replace the carb ( will be rebuilding the original which is better) Got it running well but noticed severe vibrations in the machine. ( I had sharpened and balanced everything in 2006 before parking it and it ran very well)
The issue I guessed was the shredder flails.... so after removing the 30 some bolts from the housing I got to the heart of the problem; two out of the 6 flail units were seized up because the were in the lower half of the housing and I guess had water damage that caused them to rust up.
Well I spend a good pat of the afternoon opening it all up and working on all the flail sets: 2 were problematical.....I heavily doused the with PB blaster. Gave them a few taps with a ball pean hammer and got them moving ....then I applied the more expensive Kroil....And then they really started moving!
Im going to let it sit overnight but even though they are free the still fee a bit crunchy compared to the other 4 sets.
Asking opinions here: Do You think I can get some grease down inside the shafts tomorrow to keep them moving or do I have to rebuild those two Flail sets?
I'm figuring once I get some grease into the the shear pounding that they must endure will clean them up
 

Ian

Notorious member
I'd just run the dog crap out if it now that you have them loose and let them finish freeing up on their own. Before you put it away again, get that PBB out of there with some oil or something because PB is corrosive. I believed the can once about "preventing rust" and misted down a $600 tap and die set. Within a month most of the laser-etched size markings were obliterated by a fine layer of brown rust. Never again, now I only use ATF/acetone as a penetrating oil.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
The only reason I used PBB was because The were a mess & I needed lots! Good tip! I sure we be aware of that!
I was thinking of using that Lanolin base spray grease/ rust inhibitor Ben turned us on to! That is what I use on all my guns that are in the safe!
Smells really foul but Nothing has seen rust so far
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
I'd definitely flood them out with some oil, turn them by hand, and oil them some more.
heck I'd dump oil all over everything.
I made the mistake of using a penetrant oil to get stuff freed up then forgetting about it and having to go back in later and do it again.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Fluid Film is the only thing I've found to keep my lathe from rusting in my terribly clammy shop.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
PB Blasters original use was for softening old, dried grease. Works good for that. It's not a penetrant IME, at least no better than WD40, if as good. Were it me, I'd considered doing as Ian says and run it as long as the vibration isn't bad. Then I'd run some used oil into the thing, or better ATF/diesel mixed 50/50. Give it a good soak. Fluid Film is supposed to be good stuff, other people use chainsaw bar oil with diesel enough to spray it. Either way, do what you can for it.
 

Tomme boy

Well-Known Member
Use acetone and ATF. It will get to where it needs to go. You might have some sap that hardened up in there also. A little heat and atf will loosen it if you have to go that route.
 

Rally

NC Minnesota
Maybe try some chain lube. Sprays on and forms into a light grease if you can get it into cracks. I really think ATF is as good as anything for creeping into joints.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
ATF/Acetone, ATF/Diesel, ATF/Mineral Spirits, ATf/gas, they all work better than most other "penetrants" IME. Acetone evaporates pretty fast. The Acetone/diesel/etc is there to thin the AFT and cut grease IMO. It's the ATF that does the work, and it works very nicely.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Acetone is polar and atf (mineral oil) is non-polar. Somehow the two combined makes a wicking action. I think the acetone thins the atf and drags it into the cracks where it can do the work.
 

JSH

Active Member
LPS makes some good stuff. I think it is there #3 I put on my plow, label is no longer on the jug. It can be brushed on about like 80-90, but then sets like a grease or soft wax. Two coats a few days apart and it is good for several years.
 

Bret4207

At the casting bench in the sky. RIP Bret.
Plow coat, used to something you could find all over the place. Now with all the no till stuff it's a rare commodity.
 

JSH

Active Member
They still plow to a certain extent around here. You have to plow the ditches in where the silly grass strips didn’t work.
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Been Away awhile....Work got in the way
Just getting back to being home ....Weather is not the best but the flails are moving well... My plan is (when the rain stops) it to totally saturate the flail sets with some motor oil and STP oil treatment ....mixed ...flush out the PBB. Drill a hole at the bottom of the housing so water can drain out and put the whole thing back together and start it.
I know the vibrations will be gone because the flail units are moving free!
If I Get good weather ( It has jumped into December here! with snow) I want to clean up the leaves and sticks before I store it ....But I got to find a place to put it!....I don't want to do a tarp cover outside again!
 

JWFilips

Well-Known Member
Old Thread I know! But have been using the chipper shredder recently and it works great Guess everything is in balance now.
Great way to mix up organic pre-compost from yard waste.....the effluent heats up in 2 days!
Darn thing is very loud though even with hearing protection.
Still have to give it a shot of starting fluid each time I fire it up! Guess the old 8hp Tecumseh is a bit tired
 

Joshua

Taco Aficionado/Salish Sea Pirate/Part-Time Dragon
A few weeks ago I tore down two broken lawn mowers. A guy I work with had recommended just buying “kits” off of Amazon.

The kit for the Toro/Tucumseh had a new carb/gaskets/fuel line/clamps/air filter/spark plug/coil and wire. All in one kit.

I had to get two smaller kits for the Briggs and Stratton, same stuff just broken up into two packages based on fuel and fire.

Total cost delivered, to fix both mowers, was 68 bucks. Both are one pull wonders again.

I know this isn’t how my grandad fixed things. I have rebuilt/cleaned carbs, changed plugs, and replaced coils; one at a time. But this was really easy. Everything shipped to the house. Tear the mower apart once. All new stuff. Gap the coil. New gas. Back to one or two pull starting.

Josh
 

Rick H

Well-Known Member
I was gifted an old Ariens two stage snowblower. Hard starting even with a shot of either....was going to rebuild the carb but found a brand new carb for that old 2 3/4HP Tecumseh was $10.28 delivered to my door. So I replaced the old one and its fuel line, added a fuel shutoff valve and have a "New" snowblower for the cabin.