Always cleaned the bore and cylinder after every shoot but that was it. A few weeks ago I started having light primer strikes and blamed the primers, changed primers then blamed the primer pocket depth of the cases. Then I realized that the revolver hadn't had a cleaning inside for 20 years with most all shooting done with cast bullets and my bees wax/Vaseline lube along with a powder that some consider a dirty powder. An old friend told me to cock the hammer and squirt brake parts cleaner down around the hammer then up around the trigger area, blow it out and give it a spritz of Rem-Oil. By golly the light primer strikes went away. Yes, someday I'll have a smith give it a proper cleaning and lube job. I'm 77 and am getting a slight tremor in my hands, I'm not about to tear it apart myself. A man has got to know his limitations!
Clean that Revolver now and then
- Thread starter Rex
- Start date
My Marlin 1894CB in 45 Colt was similar. Using a soft wax based lube with moderate loads in a gun with a massive chamber lead to lots of lube blowing into the action. After a few thousand rounds it was time to strip it down and clean the goo out.
My Ruger revolvers get a strip and clean every few years, they are si pls to tear down. The S&W gets the cylinder removed, cleaned, and lumber every so often.
My Ruger revolvers get a strip and clean every few years, they are si pls to tear down. The S&W gets the cylinder removed, cleaned, and lumber every so often.
RBHarter
West Central AR
I cleaned a 1917 Colts for Dad once after about 30 yr in a drawer .
I just pulled the grips and dropped in a cake box full of CLP to soak . I cycled it submerged , double action dry fire , and flipped it over and repeated with a 10-15 minute soak . Cheap spray oil wash through all the holes .......gross . Repeat soak , cycle , rinse , better , repeat ... What's that gob . Would you look at that there's a gap above the barrel extension and the top strap ...... Easy no lost parts . The gobs of gunk in the pan was ......how does that much dirt get in such small spaces .
I just pulled the grips and dropped in a cake box full of CLP to soak . I cycled it submerged , double action dry fire , and flipped it over and repeated with a 10-15 minute soak . Cheap spray oil wash through all the holes .......gross . Repeat soak , cycle , rinse , better , repeat ... What's that gob . Would you look at that there's a gap above the barrel extension and the top strap ...... Easy no lost parts . The gobs of gunk in the pan was ......how does that much dirt get in such small spaces .
RicinYakima
High Steppes of Eastern Washington
To me, that is the real advantage of an ultrasonic parts cleaner.
358156 hp
At large, whereabouts unknown.
I was about to say that. I'd still suggest spring replacement too though if it hasn't been apart for that long.
I keep a index card inside every pistol rug. Record date of last cleaning and how many rounds fired since. put card in zip lock baggie and safety pin to inside of Rifle Case or Pistol Rug. On New Years Morning I go through every gun wipedown, refresh oil in bore's, cylinder, etc. same on JULY 4TH Morning.
When I was Cowboy Shooting Hot & Heavy, it was every 3 months. Complete tear down before End of Trail. It was a full 2 day Job. Six handguns, Four Rifles and Four Shotguns. Only weekend I'd skip shooting the whole year.
When I was Cowboy Shooting Hot & Heavy, it was every 3 months. Complete tear down before End of Trail. It was a full 2 day Job. Six handguns, Four Rifles and Four Shotguns. Only weekend I'd skip shooting the whole year.
Rally
NC Minnesota
My S&W 63 has been swimming so many times it has grown fins! My S&W 60-4 is usually inside a pair of chest waders, so has an easier life. I try to remember to clean both about once a month, but it would be a lie if I said it was a ritual.
I also try to remember to give my holsters a shot of silicone. I do give my leather a good treatment of Sno-Seal twice a year. Usually October and March, and time well spent in my experience. Wife doesn't like me borrowing her hair dryer though!
I also try to remember to give my holsters a shot of silicone. I do give my leather a good treatment of Sno-Seal twice a year. Usually October and March, and time well spent in my experience. Wife doesn't like me borrowing her hair dryer though!
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I used to use a 200degree oven to dry my Black Powder Revolvers after a Cowboy Match. I would pull the grips off and put them in a small plastic tub full of Simple Green. The agitation of the drive home would clean them. A pass down the bore and each chamber with a bronze brush would finish the clean up. Blow out everything with an air compressor. Leave in Oven for an hour. Lube with Ballistol, reassemble and ready for next weekend.
Cleaned Rifle and Shotgun before I left the range.
Changed over to 1/3 each, Murphy's/ H-peroxide/Iso-alcohal. Left hands clean and soft.
Cleaned Rifle and Shotgun before I left the range.
Changed over to 1/3 each, Murphy's/ H-peroxide/Iso-alcohal. Left hands clean and soft.
Outpost75
Active Member
This might be overkill for some, but good info for others. This is what I teach in my CCW revolver classes:
Old School DA Revolver Field Cleaning Kit - Rev3- 7 Feb 2018 - UNCLASSIFIED - DISTRIBUTION UNLIMITED
Thanks to FBI Academy and FLETC instructor cadre who have offered their most recent edits and suggestions, which are now incorporated here:
This is an email I wrote responding to a youngster who inherited his Dad's old "cop gun" who asked what he needed for routine cleaning. I thought my reply would be of general interest so am starting a new thread here. While this list is oriented towards an S&W revolver, it works with Colts, Rugers or auto pistols with few gun-specific mods being required if specific tools are recommended.
-------------- Original query deleted to protect privacy of the innocent -------------
I was taught old school revolver and dislike aerosols, so I don’t use them. Their propellant causes moisture condensation on the gun, they are expensive for the amount of product and waste far too much in product in dispensing.
For general cleaning and lubrication I like Kano Kroil Brownell’s 471-100-008WB Kroil Pour Can or Ed's Red. If you don't want to mix your own, buy blended professionally from Brownell's. 083-150-001WB 4 oz. "Ed's Red" Bore Cleaner https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...solvents/ed-s-red-bore-cleaner-prod19936.aspx
Avoid storing a revolver wrapped in any cotton cloth, because it attracts moisture. I use these to wipe guns carried as EDC daily, and to wrap them up after cleaning and before casing to secure in locked container for travel or longer term storage: https://countycomm.com/collections/view-all-products/products/high-grade-micro-fiber-cloth
Don’t store a revolver in a leather holster either, because the leather attracts moisture and long-term causes corrosion. If not routinely carrying, inspecting and wiping sweat and dirt off a handgun daily as EDC I store small revolvers or pocket autos in a Maratec zippered PVC pouch which doesn’t look like a gun case: https://countycomm.com/collections/pouches/products/r-pvc-water-repellant-pouch
My field cleaning gear goes into a small Cordura one: https://countycomm.com/collections/pouches/products/handy-zipper-pouches-by-maratac
Recommended field cleaning gear to keep in the small Maratec zipper pouch:
Dewey 4” loop brass pistol rod, Brownell’s 234-000-070WB
Brass loop patch holder .38 cal. /9mm Brownell’s 084-000-217WB
Two Dewey COTTON bore mops for CLEANING/WIPING, .38 cal. pk. Of 3 749-000-168WB. Can be used for a quick field clean without using patches. Use one mop to wet the bore before brushing. This avoids dipping a dirty brush into the bore cleaner and contaminating it. Use the wet cotton mop again after brushing to remove loosened crud. Use a different dry mop to soak up excess excess solvent before oiling the gun lightly and putting it away.
One Brownell’s double-tuff bore brush .38 cal./9mm in kit, pack of 3 084-142-137WB
One Brownell’s WOOL bore mop for OILING .38 cal./9mm in kit, pk. Of 3 084-415-037WB
Brownell’s gun parts cleaning brush 676-450-001WB Or travel toothbrush https://countycomm.com/collections/view-all-products/products/travel-toothbrush
Brownell’s S&W revolver screwdriver bits only combo pack for S&W 080-087-002WB
Brownell’s Compact Magnetic LE screwdriver handle 080-089-006WB
Brownell’s needle oilers 3 pk. 084-000-361WB, allocated as below:
Bottle 1 - Kroil or Ed’s Red bore cleaner – ID by RED color when filled,
Bottle 2 - USP H1 food grade mineral oil for lubrication - ID easily because contents are CLEAR
Bottle 3 - Isopropyl alcohol to rinse mops and brushes after use. The "crud" falls to the bottom and will stay there. The implement dries quickly and is ready to go for the next range cleaning session. Alcohol is cheap (about a buck for a bottle), and it takes a while for the alcohol to foul to the point where it needs to be replaced. You will notice that brushes and mops last a lot longer using this process.
Alternately some people (DEA and NYPD Old School) use clear mineral spirits in the extra bottle before washing them with hot soapy water in the motel sink if out on the road. This gets the implements cleaner, but they take longer to dry. But professional armorer's advice is to ALWAYS clean used mops for a cleaner gun!
Some people (NYSP Old School), use a .40 cal. NYLON heavy-duty bore brush (Brownell's 084-444-017WB) .40/.41/10mm Pistol, 3 Pk) just for cleaning .38/.357 revolver CHAMBERS. This is a good idea when firing more than 100 rounds of wadcutter ammo between cleanings. The nylon .40 cal. brush can also be used as expedient bore brush without harm. If firing .38 Special lead bullet ammunition in revolvers with .357 chambers (Brownell's stainless steel CHAMBER brush 084-455-137WB .38/.357 per 3) does a better job of removing lead deposits from CHAMBERS, used with Kroil, but SHOULD ABSOLUTELY NOT BE USED IN THE BORE! because it will both damage the brush and may scratch the bore.
Norton UCS plastic scraper/cleaning stick, is non-scratching and great for getting encrusted fouling out of the nooks and crannies around the revolver barrel extension, the frame window or auto pistol slide face. MUCH better than the sharpened wooden Popsicle sticks we used to use in my time! https://countycomm.com/collections/...oducts/nortons-u-c-s-universal-cleaning-stick
For routine lubrication I use only ordinary USDA H1 rated pure USP mineral oil from the drug store, applied with patch, toothpick, Q-tip or eye dropper. Good read on subject. Most "gun lubes" are expensive "snake oil".
http://www.grantcunningham.com/2012...on-to-use-food-grade-lubricants-on-your-guns/
Old School DA Revolver Field Cleaning Kit - Rev3- 7 Feb 2018 - UNCLASSIFIED - DISTRIBUTION UNLIMITED
Thanks to FBI Academy and FLETC instructor cadre who have offered their most recent edits and suggestions, which are now incorporated here:
This is an email I wrote responding to a youngster who inherited his Dad's old "cop gun" who asked what he needed for routine cleaning. I thought my reply would be of general interest so am starting a new thread here. While this list is oriented towards an S&W revolver, it works with Colts, Rugers or auto pistols with few gun-specific mods being required if specific tools are recommended.
-------------- Original query deleted to protect privacy of the innocent -------------
I was taught old school revolver and dislike aerosols, so I don’t use them. Their propellant causes moisture condensation on the gun, they are expensive for the amount of product and waste far too much in product in dispensing.
For general cleaning and lubrication I like Kano Kroil Brownell’s 471-100-008WB Kroil Pour Can or Ed's Red. If you don't want to mix your own, buy blended professionally from Brownell's. 083-150-001WB 4 oz. "Ed's Red" Bore Cleaner https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...solvents/ed-s-red-bore-cleaner-prod19936.aspx
Avoid storing a revolver wrapped in any cotton cloth, because it attracts moisture. I use these to wipe guns carried as EDC daily, and to wrap them up after cleaning and before casing to secure in locked container for travel or longer term storage: https://countycomm.com/collections/view-all-products/products/high-grade-micro-fiber-cloth
Don’t store a revolver in a leather holster either, because the leather attracts moisture and long-term causes corrosion. If not routinely carrying, inspecting and wiping sweat and dirt off a handgun daily as EDC I store small revolvers or pocket autos in a Maratec zippered PVC pouch which doesn’t look like a gun case: https://countycomm.com/collections/pouches/products/r-pvc-water-repellant-pouch
My field cleaning gear goes into a small Cordura one: https://countycomm.com/collections/pouches/products/handy-zipper-pouches-by-maratac
Recommended field cleaning gear to keep in the small Maratec zipper pouch:
Dewey 4” loop brass pistol rod, Brownell’s 234-000-070WB
Brass loop patch holder .38 cal. /9mm Brownell’s 084-000-217WB
Two Dewey COTTON bore mops for CLEANING/WIPING, .38 cal. pk. Of 3 749-000-168WB. Can be used for a quick field clean without using patches. Use one mop to wet the bore before brushing. This avoids dipping a dirty brush into the bore cleaner and contaminating it. Use the wet cotton mop again after brushing to remove loosened crud. Use a different dry mop to soak up excess excess solvent before oiling the gun lightly and putting it away.
One Brownell’s double-tuff bore brush .38 cal./9mm in kit, pack of 3 084-142-137WB
One Brownell’s WOOL bore mop for OILING .38 cal./9mm in kit, pk. Of 3 084-415-037WB
Brownell’s gun parts cleaning brush 676-450-001WB Or travel toothbrush https://countycomm.com/collections/view-all-products/products/travel-toothbrush
Brownell’s S&W revolver screwdriver bits only combo pack for S&W 080-087-002WB
Brownell’s Compact Magnetic LE screwdriver handle 080-089-006WB
Brownell’s needle oilers 3 pk. 084-000-361WB, allocated as below:
Bottle 1 - Kroil or Ed’s Red bore cleaner – ID by RED color when filled,
Bottle 2 - USP H1 food grade mineral oil for lubrication - ID easily because contents are CLEAR
Bottle 3 - Isopropyl alcohol to rinse mops and brushes after use. The "crud" falls to the bottom and will stay there. The implement dries quickly and is ready to go for the next range cleaning session. Alcohol is cheap (about a buck for a bottle), and it takes a while for the alcohol to foul to the point where it needs to be replaced. You will notice that brushes and mops last a lot longer using this process.
Alternately some people (DEA and NYPD Old School) use clear mineral spirits in the extra bottle before washing them with hot soapy water in the motel sink if out on the road. This gets the implements cleaner, but they take longer to dry. But professional armorer's advice is to ALWAYS clean used mops for a cleaner gun!
Some people (NYSP Old School), use a .40 cal. NYLON heavy-duty bore brush (Brownell's 084-444-017WB) .40/.41/10mm Pistol, 3 Pk) just for cleaning .38/.357 revolver CHAMBERS. This is a good idea when firing more than 100 rounds of wadcutter ammo between cleanings. The nylon .40 cal. brush can also be used as expedient bore brush without harm. If firing .38 Special lead bullet ammunition in revolvers with .357 chambers (Brownell's stainless steel CHAMBER brush 084-455-137WB .38/.357 per 3) does a better job of removing lead deposits from CHAMBERS, used with Kroil, but SHOULD ABSOLUTELY NOT BE USED IN THE BORE! because it will both damage the brush and may scratch the bore.
Norton UCS plastic scraper/cleaning stick, is non-scratching and great for getting encrusted fouling out of the nooks and crannies around the revolver barrel extension, the frame window or auto pistol slide face. MUCH better than the sharpened wooden Popsicle sticks we used to use in my time! https://countycomm.com/collections/...oducts/nortons-u-c-s-universal-cleaning-stick
For routine lubrication I use only ordinary USDA H1 rated pure USP mineral oil from the drug store, applied with patch, toothpick, Q-tip or eye dropper. Good read on subject. Most "gun lubes" are expensive "snake oil".
http://www.grantcunningham.com/2012...on-to-use-food-grade-lubricants-on-your-guns/
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