Cleaning smear off mold

Bazzer

New Member
I have. New NOE brass mold, using it for the first time I had both the lead and the mold too hot and I ended up with some lead smear of the top of the mold. It’s doesn’t effect the molding at all. I know have the temperature right. But its unsightly to look at considering I paid $121 for what is a really nice mold. Does anyone know a good way to get rid of it? The smear, not the mold!
Thanks
bazza
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
While the mould is at casting temperature, take a ingot or a cut off (cool) sprue and use it like an eraser. A rawhide mallet will work, if you use one for a mould knocker, as I do.
 

CWLONGSHOT

Well-Known Member
Nice tip guys!!

Thanks!

On my steel molds I use a flattened case mouth of a 556 dress as a scraper. (When hot mold) resisted this in my nicer brass molds.
 

Winelover

North Central Arkansas
0000 Steel wool or even bronze on sprue plates. Iron moulds not a problem, aluminum and brass, judiciously.

Bamboo skewer can be used in tight to reach places, like mold cavities and their respective edges.
 

fiver

Well-Known Member
little piece of micro-wax flowing across the surface followed by a gloved thumb works too.
just don't get the lube in the cavities.

keep a little something on the top of the mold, and it will keep the lead from sticking next time.
a little 2- stroke or A/C-100, some graphite, a light smear of anti-seize, whatever just apply every 30-40 pours or so and it will keep the smear easily removeable if you do it again.
it will also help keep from galling the top of an aluminum mold.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ian

JonB

Halcyon member
A smear of lead alloy may or maynot be "tinned" to the brass.
If not tinned, using a ingot as an eraser works well for me.

If the alloy is tinned, it will not be easy to remove. I use a bamboo skewer and beeswax on a mold that it heated to casting temperature, which is about 350 to 375ºF.
Heat mold, then apply a tiny bit of beeswax, yes that will smoke. Rub vigorously with bamboo.
Repeat until removed.

Once all the lead alloy is removed, I use a penetrating oil, like Kroil to remove the beeswax residue, then wash with Hotwater, dishsoap, and toothbrush.

As Fiver mentioned, Use a fully synth two stroke oil as a sprue plate lube, applied to the top of the mold as well, to prevent this.
 

buckbrush

New Member
Bullplate will remove it. If it is a hot mold apply Bullplate and rub with a cotton cloth or push it off with a chopstick. If the mold is cold apply Bullplate and let it soak for a few minutes, then chopstick it.
 

GRMPS

Active Member
I like to keep a carpenter pencil on my casting bench. the but is good for de-burring mold cavities or removing lead smears and the lead tip is good for coating HP pins.
 

trapper9260

Active Member
What I do is use a old cotton sock and have a thin film of 2 cycle oil on it and when the mold is hot I rub the spur plate with it and it will take the lead that is on the plate off and also on the top of the mold it will remove it. Just do not get any oil in the cavity.You will be good till the next time it will show up. It works for me .also use the 2 cycle oil for the pins of the mold and hing. Do not put much on it.
 

Bakebfr480

New Member
I traded for a Hoch 550 gr. Creedmoor mould that cast beautiful bullets the first time I used it but it is a nose pour and it has a smear top and bottom. I tried the ingot during casting but it didn't help!
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
With the mold good & hot try a leather gloved thumb, The leather should pick it up.

Welcome to the forum Bake. :)