Cleaning with Kroil

L Ross

L Ross

Well-Known Member
Another vote for ATF and acetone as a penetrant. I put it in my old Sea Foam cans by the way guys. I give the empty Sea Foam can a light sanding, and rattle can spray it a solid light color so I can paint a new label on them. The mix does not attack the plastic lid and of course the can is metal. Makes a nice storage can for BLL too.
 
I

Intheshop

Banned
Yes,I remember moly and love it,though never used any.....

Bought a stainless Savage 116, that still had the "new gun smell",at most... a cpl hunert rds through it. But half of those were that blue moly coated.... which left the bore completely nasty. I lowballed the guy pretty hard,to the tune of gas or beer money's low,and he took it. Didn't know kroil was the ticket for it's removal,I DO know it was a royal pain in the butt to get that barrel clean though.


david s said:
Speaking of "new tricks", remember Moly coated bullets? Kroil does a fair job of getting Moly out of your bore.
Click to expand...
 
CZ93X62

CZ93X62

Official forum enigma
No experience with Kroil (so far), mostly Hoppe's #9 for bores and finishes. Desert Rats Like Me are totally spoiled, humidity is unheard of around here. If a bore gets copper-fouled, like 22-250s are wont to do--Sweet's 7.62 to the rescue! I don't leave it in place longer than 15 minutes or so, then patch it out and give it a Hoppe's wetting which I leave overnight, muzzle-down on a towel to drain out. It darn sure lifts the gunk out, after the Sweet's 7.62 assist. Barnes Copper Solvent is almost as good, and it gets the same regimen as the Sweet's gets. Break-Free has been more a of a lubricant than a solvent for me, but it does all right as a solvent. I am not a fastidious cleaner of firearms or their bores. That bit can get over-done to great excess.
 
Pistolero

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
You are dead right, Bret. When you have it handy and the part can survive the heat.
Used to take broken off exhaust studs out of air cooled VW aluminum heads. You will
NEVER get it out without heat, but get the stud stub up to red hot, and get ANY kind of
handle on the last bit of it, and you will unscrew it, threads in the aluminum will be fine.
I probable did at least 6 or 8 that way. The good news was that they almost never broke
off completely flush, always just a bit of a stub. File the sides flat and grab with a vise grip
after heating.....out it comes.

But ATF/acetone or even ATF/ mineral spirits works GREAT on rusty steel bolts and steel nuts. Have
not yet tried it on dissimilar metals. Have been soaking a Gehendra screws for a couple of months,
and trying Oil of Wintergreen, too. So far, no luck but the darned problem is the locking screw
on the main screw (like some 98 Mauser action screws, sorta) is a very shallow flat bladed screwdriver.
I may try my tiny airline oxyacetylene torch on it. Tha cation moves and the hammer falls, but it is
a ball of non-pitting, uniform rust. Seems salvagable if I can get it apart to really clean it up properly.

Al - a friend's daughter is going to San Bernardino, a grad school to study oceanography. What school
would that be? What's it like around it, safety wise?

Bill
 
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CZ93X62

CZ93X62

Official forum enigma
Likely Cal-State Univ-San Bernardino, less likely would be University of Redlands. U of R costs about like Harvard, Cal-State is almost affordable and many members of my family have attended there and received degrees. San Bernardino has some nice areas, but a lot of it is unsafe as h--l. If possible, have her live on campus--the Cal-State Univ. Police are a decent agency, and the campus proper is pretty safe.
 
Pistolero

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
Cost isn't being paid by her, by employer who wants her to get graduate education in
oceanography, or at least I think it is it....maybe he said meteorology, not certain and very
different, obviously. I will check with her father. Perhaps he will have the actual college name.
Will pass on the live on campus recommendation, but she will do what she will do. This is grad
school, she is an adult. Could be either, they would be seeking a top grad school, but
with the specific sub-specialties that are useful to their particular business needs.

Bill
 
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Reloader762

Reloader762

Active Member
I use Ed Red to clean all my rifle and pistol bores but Kroils is excellent at removing old carbon buildup and copper fouling for old Mil Surplus rifles. I like to run a saturated patch down the bore several times and let it sit overnight then give it a good cleaning the next day. Kroils does a excellent job of removing all that old crud. Since I started shooting mainly cast lead bullets in all my firearms years ago removing powder residue is pretty much all I have to clean up these days.
 
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Roger Allen

Roger Allen

Active Member
Mpro is so great. Follow behind it w a few dry patches after brushing out (better wash those brushes) and oil that barrel bc there won’t be anything protecting it at all
 
Tom

Tom

Well-Known Member
Bret4207 said:
Actually, the #1 bestest rust buster in the world is a rose b ud or good big cutting tip on an Ox-Acetelene torch!
Click to expand...
Add a little two stroke oil after applying the hot wrench. It won't flash like other oils and wicks into the threads very quickly.
 
Tom

Tom

Well-Known Member
Reading about using atf and acetone for a penetrating oil gave me a thought.(I know, but not all my thoughts are dangerous) I have made soak tanks from pvc pipe and soaked old misurp actions in kerosene for a couple weeks with good results. What about making a pvc pipe vacuum chamber and dropping the pressure? Wouldn't that speed up the penetrating action?
 
RicinYakima

RicinYakima

High Steppes of Eastern Washington
Not to throw too big of wet rag on your thoughts, but acetone is a solvent of pvc. Penetrating oil works by capillary action, wetting ability is independent of gravity and atmospheric pressure. Dip tanks work by constant presence of fresh fluids. HTH
 
Ian

Ian

Notorious member
L Ross said:
Another vote for ATF and acetone as a penetrant. I put it in my old Sea Foam cans by the way guys. I give the empty Sea Foam can a light sanding, and rattle can spray it a solid light color so I can paint a new label on them. The mix does not attack the plastic lid and of course the can is metal. Makes a nice storage can for BLL too.
Click to expand...

Absolutely. I save empty Sea Foam cans from work and use them for ATF/acetone penetrant in my shop and also for Ed's Red because the acetone doesn't escape them over time. A glass gallon wine jug with steel screw cap and a Viton o-ring installed in the cap is for bulk Ed's Red storage. Another solvent-proof storage container is the steel, quart Tru-Fuel cans that weedwhacker and chainsaw gas comes in. For bullet-proof Benzene and Xylene storage, the steel cans that AC evaporator flush comes in have a steel plug under the cap and can hold considerable pressure.
 
Ian

Ian

Notorious member
Bret4207 said:
Actually, the #1 bestest rust buster in the world is a rose b ud or good big cutting tip on an Ox-Acetelene torch!
Click to expand...

Yup. We call that a Blue-Point Wrench at work, as opposed to a Snap-On wrench. When all else fails, destructive removal always works and most often you can get away with only ruining one of the stuck parts as long as the heat-treat isn't ruined on the ones that didn't have to get cut.
 
B

Bill

Active Member
Atf and Coleman fuel, if that don't work I get the torch, last resort drill. Acetone is ok but I don't like the smell

Bill
 
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