C'mon, Lee!!!

Elkins45

Elkins45

Active Member
fiver said:
you can also do what Ben does and size just the nose down.
NOE makes a neat little die for the rcbs/lyman bullet lube machines that will press the nose in and out and size it down a couple thousands.

there is another option, and that is to paint the mold with some drop out.
a couple of coats of that will build up and take out about .002 in diameter.
Click to expand...
I made a die to nose size bullets in a press. It’s like a Lee push thru but with a length of dowel in the top to whack the bullet out. Length is controlled by a piece of steel tubing that goes around the bullet. That’s an option but I see two problems with it. 1) I don’t know if nose sizing will compromise the effectiveness of the already very small HP cavity and 2) it adds another step and more time to the process.

I had Accurate make me a 235 grain mold that feeds and functions great, but he doesn’t do HP. For hunting purposes I like the idea of helping give the bullet a chance to expand, although that might just be a placebo.

The funny thing is that all of this effort will have probably been for nothing because I think I’m going to build a 450 Bushmaster or 458 SOCOM to hunt with. I have an unbuilt Form 1 for a 45 caliber can that needs to be utilized.
 
fiver

fiver

Well-Known Member
well the 45 would for sure be easier to hunt with.
the 30 will do the job too if you want it to do it with cast, you just need to do a little more work.
you could just get some sierra 130 SP's or some Nosler 120gr. black tip's point and pull the trigger.
 
Ian

Ian

Notorious member
If you go for suppressed 45 subs, stick with the SOCOM. The Bushy's twist is way too slow and brass doesn't fit AR mags quite as neatly as the SOCOM does.

I can verify that the .458 SOCOM will knock a pig off its feet and end the game right there with 500-grain subs, BUT you better do your homework with drop and ranging because the drop is crazy.

The 300 BLK with 230-grain bullets, muzzle velocity of 1035 fps, has an 8" point-blank range of between 150-175 yards (better than a .30-30), so no, drop is not the reason why people don't hunt deer with them. The reason is small hole, typically non-expanding bullets, and low velocity doesn't deliver quick kills.
 
Elkins45

Elkins45

Active Member
Ian said:
If you go for suppressed 45 subs, stick with the SOCOM. The Bushy's twist is way too slow and brass doesn't fit AR mags quite as neatly as the SOCOM does.

I can verify that the .458 SOCOM will knock a pig off its feet and end the game right there with 500-grain subs, BUT you better do your homework with drop and ranging because the drop is crazy.

The 300 BLK with 230-grain bullets, muzzle velocity of 1035 fps, has an 8" point-blank range of between 150-175 yards (better than a .30-30), so no, drop is not the reason why people don't hunt deer with them. The reason is small hole, typically non-expanding bullets, and low velocity doesn't deliver quick kills.
Click to expand...

In the particular location where I would use this gun, 75 yards is about as far as I could possibly see a deer to shoot it.

I want to use cast, but with a sufficiently accurate bullet and sighted at 50 yards, a jacketed bullet would be fine in the 300 if I only took head shots...but the head is the part that moves the most.

I experimented with pouring some of the NOE 247s from pure lead but they were (not surprisingly) all over the place. They just couldn’t stand 1:7 rotation speed. I have considered the foil strip trick but that’s sure a whole bunch of work.
 
Ian

Ian

Notorious member
I don't think the foil strip trick is the answer for the blackout, I worked that idea to death over and over and never made it work.
 
RBHarter

RBHarter

West Central AR
I wonder if a 301618 or the 212gr sister would work . I read somewhere that they worked as well soft as hard . The AR feed ramps are the hard part .ive shot paper patch in an SKS without issue . The ARP AR barrel extension was better finished than the GI version and might have fed without damage to the patch .
 
358156 hp

358156 hp

At large, whereabouts unknown.
Elkins45 said:
I wouldn’t mind having one specialized AR upper just for a specific mold if I get a combo that works. I have a NOE 247 hollow point mold that I thought I might like to hunt with from a 10” suppressed AR. I just can’t get the little fat nosed SOB to work. With a little throating there might be enough room to take full advantage of it.
Click to expand...

Go to NOEs site & click on "Specials" in the banner at the top of the page. There are 230 gr 300 BO bullets that are claimed by their designer to address the issues with bullet noses on the BlackOut. Look them over carefully because the designer (Taco) is really deep into powdercoating, and the bullet could be designed specifically for use coated. I think there's a writeup on them on The Reloaders Network.
 
Ian

Ian

Notorious member
Huh. That's interesting.

I was trying to help them out with a PC design on the forum and made some suggestions that I thought would fix some issues with a design they were kicking around. Al mostly got my suggestions wrong when he drew up this:

N.O.E._Bullet_Moulds_TL310-225-RN_GC_Sketch.Jpg

Oh, well. I'm glad someone else's name is on it now because this one still needs a lot of work to do what they wanted. I actually did the pound casts of four chambers, studied the min/max of the SAAMI drawing, did the math, accounted for the coating, and got a good drawing in the works. I'll be grinding some tools and cutting my own mould soon, just have to get past some ranch projects.
 
I

Intheshop

Banned
Now you're talking Ian.....

Are you going to lathe cut the mould?

Folks kind of get intimidated? ... least I was 20+ years ago,about "dbl action" vises. When first entertaining mould making. Grinding and finishing the cherry was no big deal but oh my,that special vise that Lyman and others used was seemingly a show stopper.

Not commenting on lathe vs mill mould cutting..... that's whatever the particular party is more comfortable with. It's the vise that I look back on now and chortle about. Could make one now in my sleep.

Keep us posted,best of luck,BW
 
Ian

Ian

Notorious member
I'll be doing this 300 BLK mould on the lathe for now with two tools: An end-cutting D-reamer for most of the nose followed by a truncated, side-cutting D-reamer for the throat angle portion/micro-grooves/rebated boat tail.

When I get a mill, I'll build something like a 4:1 pantograph tracing attachment for my mini-lathe for turning cherries (and being able to duplicate them exactly when they wear out or break). I will try my hand at the double-acting vise thingy, which seems to be the best way to manually cut accurate, multi-cavity moulds.

Still need an offset R8 boring head, flycutter head, standard mill vise, and double-acting vise modified to clamp mould blocks and drilled through for guide rods to align the blocks.
 
I

Intheshop

Banned
Articulation,once understood from a machine design standpoint is an eye opener. It was one of the things that supercharged my "grinding" on bow risers where the riser fade outs are. By "slowing down" the sanding/grinding through an articulated fixture.....

You can "dbl action" on a lathe(dbl action vise). Put the cherry in a collet or holder in your chuck. Toss the tool post.... fixture up off cross slide. You'll have the "front" jaw slam covered with your cross dial. Then just link the back jaw to "follow" the front. Just sayin,it don't have to be done on a mill. And generally, lathe bearings are gonna be more stout than mill bearings.
 
fiver

fiver

Well-Known Member
they do sell 6 cavity mold blanks.
you'd probably want them to stop off a Brad's place for a square up on the outsides.
 
I

Intheshop

Banned
Ian,one of the things I could never relate to guys was,sense of scale.

We're designing a column system...... all the specs are hundreds of years old so that ain't the issue. Where scale becomes the problem is guys are thinking onsey/twosey.

"No,I want a line of columns 500 feet long".... so stop thinking in "shorts". We have 500 devided by a column every 10 feet.

Basically,we have put all the *pcs in place..... you can literally have anything you want.

*Stop thinking a machine costs X amt of $$. Buy used,sell used. It represents zero capital investment really. And because we "can" have anything, we can make money off buying,and reselling that pce.
 
Will

Will

Well-Known Member
I’d say there is a guy with a new mill here that would set you up with some nice square blocks.

Might even be able to talk him out of a aluminum sprue plate.
 
fiver

fiver

Well-Known Member
the problem kind of becomes finding good aluminum for a decent price.
you don't need a 10' length of square 3x3 blah blah to make a handful of molds this long/tall.
 
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