Cylinder throat reaming

[Brad]

Today I got the 686 ready for the throat reamer. Taking the cylinder out is easy. Getting the ejector rod out was a bit more of a challenge. Yes, Visegrips would grab it easily they also leave some nasty scars. A thin Al l shim wouldn't hold it tight enough so I thought of what non-marring jaws would work. Well of course, as a caster I have multiple bins of suitable jaws for the vice. A couple small lead ingots, a bench vice, and voila, the rod is loose.
A little cleaning, a wrap of tape to aid in marking chambers, and we are all ready. A .3565 bullet is a very snug press fit in the throats now. I figure I will be removing .0015 to .002 per throat.
Reamer should be inhe mailbox this allows afternoon.

 

[waco]

Awaiting the results.....

 

[Ian]

Those are left-hand threads on the S&Ws, aren't they? I have a Sauer that's RH, and best I remember the Smiths I've taken apart have all been the other way.

 

[Brad]

Yep, left hand threads. And some damn fine threads too. When I put it back together a little grease wil go on those threads. I also won't snug them too much, they really don't need it.

 

[gman]

I'd have to check my notes but I believe the throats on my 686 are a tight 357. Interested to see your results also.

 

[Brad]

Bullets I used firm thumb pressure to push thru throats as is measure .3652
That is pretty damn tight.
I think this will do a bunch to stop forcing cone leading as the bullet will form an instant seal with the bore instead of waiting for pressure to slug up the bullet.

 

[waco]

.3562"?.......

 

[Rick]

Lead ingots would work, I save old leather belts for such tasks and cut pieces long enough to do the task at hand. Plenty thick and tough enough to do the job. And free.

 

[creosote]

I researched removing the ejector rod from a smith a few years ago. The info I found stated they changed the right hand/left hand thread at some time. By the time I got around to taking one apart (just for a heck of it) I forgot which thread it was. ( for the year)
Then there is the danger of smashing the rod.
I'm sure you know this trick, but .......
When I built my fal, I used lead to hold the barrel in the vise. (it was too soft) I ended up bending the vise handle trying to get it tight enough not to spin. I ended up using some dried pine pitch, crumpled up to a fine dust. Then sprinkled between the lead and barrel. gave it enough traction. to keep it from turning. It did make it easier to clean up than the aluminum when I built the m-1 Garands.
Now I'm going to have to find out if there is a right hand thread.

 

[RicinYakima]

Threat changed when they changed from model names to model numbers and started stamping them on the crane cut of the frame. If the frame has an assembly number it is RH, if model number it is LH. HTH, Ric

 

[Will]

I have always used a wooden clothes pin on the ejector rod with channel locks to apply pressure to them.
I have a model 15 S&w that requires quite a bit of torque on the ejector rod in order to not work it’s way loose and tie up the revolver.

 

[Brad]

Reaming is complete. I did a really quick polish with a split rod and 400 grit emery too. Each throats got a few seconds of polish, just enough to remove some tool marks but not enough to change dimensions.
A bullet was forced thru each throats and measured. All measure .3584 to .3586.
A .358 bullet should be about perfect.

I got a little video with the GoPro but need to see how good it is and get it downloaded before I can post it here.

 

[USSR]

Those are left-hand threads on the S&Ws, aren't they? I have a Sauer that's RH, and best I remember the Smiths I've taken apart have all been the other way.

With S&W's, it depends upon when it was made. With the L frame, they have always been left-hand thread. With my pre-Model 14, it has right-hand threads. I believe the change was made sometime in the 60's.

Don

 

[Brad]

Sorry about the water mark, I haven't decided if i want to pay 60 bucks for the full version yet. Same software Walter's brother is using for their videos.

 

[fiver]

that looks like a project even I could handle.

 

[Stonecrusher]

Looks good Brad. That ought to have it shooting right!

Love the Klein Lineman's hammer and punch!

 

[Brad]

that looks like a project even I could handle.

I'm sure you could. I spent more time fighting the snap ring to change pilots than anything. Four throats accepted the .357 pilot, the other two needed the .3565 pilot.
Oil well before reaming, remove handle when done to pass reamer completely thru. Remove chips well. Repeat.

Entire process took less than 30 minutes.

 

[gman]

Nice job Brad. I've done several of my own. By the time I'm done I have cutting oil everywhere because I'm not stingy with it. Might be overkill but it can't hurt. For me the reamers turned out to be a good investment. Hopefully good results to come!

 

[Longone]

Brad, how is the finished ream surface? Would you need to polish it at all or is it good to go?

 

[Brad]

Good question, hard to say?

This is after reaming but before any polishing. Tool marks are present but hard to say how significant they would be?


This is after a light polish. Just enough to remove some tool marks.