Digging for a trade and where did I get that ?

[RBHarter]

I never thought it would be me .......

358432 below and 358495 above both 148gr (target weight) .
By some happenstance i have both and several other "desired" 358s as well as that SWC that enjoys the love it or loathe it status . I think there is still a 358432 161 gr in there too but I was sure I sent it on it's way .

In any case after having the 161gr I made a use for a long nose out 148 gr with some tests in a 9mm some yr ago with a bunch of probably Lee copies . I suspect the winter doldrums to be at fault for that . The 491 will of course be in a 38 where it belongs if I ever get around to casting it .

With the overall length being nearly identical but the nose out I would think that since the copy fed and functioned well the original should also .
I'll resort to 38 Short data to start as the data has wandered off with my calipers from the last trials .

Why ?
Well , umm , because I can I guess .
Who doesn't love those neat clean holes .
Wider meplat higher impact shock area .
What other eurban myth is there that we'll quibble over while agreeing for reasons .
I think my days of range warrior with the cool stuff are over .

I also found a really abused SWC that I think about 90% of the abuse can be fixed if I mill or lap about .05-7 off the base side . 358271 .


As you can see it was rather used like a hammer I guess . It doesn't cast badly and the base lumps clean up sized butt first the weight loss might make it a contender for a 135ish for the 9mm .......no I didn't do the math and I will freely admit to not wanting to just in case I get my hopes up and it comes in too heavy . I know coming from the goober sticking a 148 WC in a 9mm that means a lot .

How does one pull that stop pin for the sprue plate ?
Is there any real data in print for a WC in any of the Short 35/38 auto cases ? 38 super ?

 

[RicinYakima]

" How does one pull that stop pin for the sprue plate ?"

The pins are press fit. You can either pull it with plyers or side-cutters. When I have done this in the past, I just milled it off and redrilled a 1/16" hole and pounded a + size hardened pin into the new hole.

 

[RBHarter]

Thanks Rick . I kind of suspected that but I hate to drive a tapered pin the wrong way almost as much and trying to drive a straight bolt out of a tapered locking thread ........ Only once .

 

[358156 hp]

I've had some success clamping the stop pin in a smooth jawed vise, then twisting the mould block gently to see if the pin will come loose. I suppose it would be a good idea to put a couple of drops of good penetrating oil on the pin and letting it set a few days beforehand.

 

[Maven]

RBH, I have that Ideal mould design (pic #2) in single cavity. Mine is in VG condition, and does OK in both the .38Spl. & .357Mag., albeit at target velocity.
I read somewhere (G. Fryxell?) that it was the 1st SWC design.

 

[blackthorn]

Once you get the pin out (and it does not matter if you wreck it) simply use a roll pin to replace it when you are ready to re-install.

 

[RicinYakima]

"I read somewhere (G. Fryxell?) that it was the 1st SWC design."

Yes it was for the .357 because of the short cylinder. Keith's and a couple of others were around, but all had crimp grooves for 38 Specials in the big frame.

 

[RBHarter]

The pin came out easy , odd that it was full of oil underneath of it .
I was able to lap it down a ways , no where near what I wanted off but most of the damage is gone and it's only .002 shorter . I'm no saint in using moulds but I swear the last user must have used an actual hammer on it .

The 495 is an Ideal it may even be an early example .....but it has vent lines so maybe not ....I can never remember all the production changes .

 

[358156 hp]

The pin came out easy , odd that it was full of oil underneath of it .
I was able to lap it down a ways , no where near what I wanted off but most of the damage is gone and it's only .002 shorter . I'm no saint in using moulds but I swear the last user must have used an actual hammer on it .

The 495 is an Ideal it may even be an early example .....but it has vent lines so maybe not ....I can never remember all the production changes .

I agree about the marks on the 360271. I've seen a lot of moulds that appear to have been opened with a hammer, or perhaps a heavy piece of steel strap.

Now, about the wadcutters, do you have a specific gun in mind? There were 38 wadcutter conversions on 1911s, plus S&W made a wadcutter gun in their first generation semi-autos but I can't remember the model number off the top of my head (ETA: Model 52 38 Spl "38 Master"). 358495 isn't a really old design by Lyman/Ideal standards, it first showed up around 1955 in Handbook #40 according to my elderly Lyman Reloading Handbook #46.

BTW, 358432 is a pretty cool design. I discovered early on that it worked well for me in speedloaders because of the additional nose length. This made it a natural for bowling pins in my early days.

 

[RBHarter]

I had/have a bunch of probably Lee knock offs that I tried 40-50 in for a couple late model pistols that will feed an empty case off the mag .
A FEG HP9 and a P96DC will be the platform in 9mm , there's also a 47' M10 in 38 Special will get a few also loaded down of course .

 

[RBHarter]

3.0 Unique seems familiar to me for this . A 147 gold dot lists 4.0 .
I'd like to go with Red Dot as I have about 8# in a steel can not getting any fresher but I think maybe it's too fast .