Drippy Little Lee 10#

Mike W1

Active Member
They do drip - sometimes not always. Keep trying to avoid it but so far not 100% success. Couple things I've done over the years minimize the hassle though. When my old 10# died and they went to the 4" clearance built a little riser covered with aluminum. That got me the preferred clearance and the smooth floor lets me slightly shift the mould to ensure I'm hitting center of sprue hole with the stream. The drips that do occur are easily swept into the little removeable catch box below.

Long ago I had a little bolt welded on top of the valve rod to put a handle on instead of grabbing a screw driver every time I needed to give it a twist. Have tried wood knobs and you name it. Finally have what works for me. Scrap aluminum piece with a couple small bolts threaded into the sides. Always have a plastic mallet in hand anyhow so if it drips a touch on the bolt takes care of things.

Have experimented with bending the tip of the valve rod itself but don't feel as though I've found the "sweet spot" for that yet. But that does look promising for another day out in the shop.

Knob%2011-24-15_zps9ijjdwdf.jpg


HPIM1075.jpg
 

Rally Hess

Well-Known Member
I had two 10lb Lee pots for a lot of years and they dripped some, but really weren't that bad. A couple twists with a screw driver and a little pressure stopped the drip. The rod is about 4 times larger and heavier than the new 20lb pots. I always attributed some dripping, to the angle the rod was in the 10lb pots. Seems to me the rod would apply more weight to the seat if it were straight up and down like the new 20lb pots are. I'm not sure if it could be changed because the seat is also at an angle, if I remember correctly.
I went to two 20lb Lee pots a couple years ago and have called them everything my mother wouldn't have wanted to hear!! What a piss poor set up for a valve/rod. I've seen some of the conversions on the web people have made to combat the problem, and intend to use some of their ideas and add a few of my own. I really think half of the problem with the 20lb pots is the rod itself is just too light and is actually "floating" in the alloy. I intend to use a much larger/heavier rod with the actual tip turned down to fit the valve. That, and the slop in that joke of a spring return system on them now, I believe, causes enough movement, to allow the rod to actually "float", enough to leak with any small amount of dirt at the seat. It also doesn't apply any downward pressure to the rod, and changes when the pot heats up. If the weight was in the rod, and not binding on the linkage, it would transfer that weight to the seat, without having overly large or weighted external linkages, intended to add weight to a small rod. I also want to keep the top of the pot as open as possible, with a lifting handle about where it currently is, and should have some type of lift limit stop. I like your idea of a T top on the rod, for a quick twist to clear the seat.
I'm going to put a new base on both my 20lb's also. I want it to have a different guide system that works off the legs of the pot and adjustable for height. I use some RG4 moulds and am using a piece of wood 2x2 as a guide for the pin retainers on the bottom. If you set the RG4's on a flat surface the heads of the pins will push up into the moulds slightly and change the depth of the HP pins. The 2x2 runs from front to back and allows quick centering of the mould by sliding the ends of the pin retainers to the edge of the 2x2. Then when I pour, I just push it from front to rear or vise versa. The same thing could be made from 1 1/2" aluminum tubular on my permanent base.
 

Mike W1

Active Member
Had another go at bending the valve rod tip the other day and believe I'm good. Still the occasional drip but not that often. Can't imagine that any more tweeking would be worth doing. All said I think it was worth taking the time to do it. If necessary a nudge with the finger on the knob in 1st picture takes care of it.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Steel rod is buoyant in molten lead alloy no matter the size.

I have a Lee 20 lb pot with the wooden knob which hasn't given me much trouble at all over the years, though I did have to pull it apart to fix where the guide rod screws stripped out of the channels in the housing. If I were to change anything, and next time I have to pull it apart I might, it would be to put a sharper taper on the pintle and lap it into the spout.
 

Missionary

Well-Known Member
Greetings
Lapped all my Lee spouts and they seldom drip. I also add flattened .720 lead balls onto the handle rod. Put the RB into a vice and squeeze till the flat is equal to handle diameter. Drill hole into ball flat to slip onto rod. Remove wood handle and slide extra weight onto rod. I use 3. That extra rod weight really seats the spout tight.
Shooting muzzle loaders it is natural to have all sorts of big RB molds.
Mike in Peru
 

Mike W1

Active Member
That aluminum "knob" on my pot would be roughly about 3 times as heavy if made of steel I think and I've thought of making one but question my ability to drill and tap it. Might be worth the effort though.
 

JonB

Halcyon member
Yeah, I've lapped the valve/spouts on my two Lee 4-20 pots. I also put a large steel nut from my scrap bin (1/2" maybe) inbetween the wooden knob and the thingy it's threaded too. mostly drip-free, but it'll start dripping once in a while, if it gets crudded up, then a drain and clean is in order.
 

Rally Hess

Well-Known Member
Worked on one of my pots today and have it where it should work. Made the parts for the second one also, but haven't put them on yet. I was intending to replace the rod with a much larger rod but if the original doesn't work out I already have the material. I think the material I used (1/2 x1/8" cold rolled) adds enough weight and seems to work with the original rod. I ran 12 lbs through it , opening and closeing it alot to get the feel of it. It's solid and adjustable for rod and stop limits. If I decide to add a heavier rod the linkage is also adjustable with spacers for front and rear adjustment. My supplier was out of the aluminum 6" material I wanted for the base, so the base will have to wait awhile.
For the "yoke" that holds the linkage to the pot, I tapped a 3/16" piece of round stock on both ends and drilled the aluminum houseing out all the way from top to bottom. I first tried just tapping the houseing for a 10x32 screw, but that felt too flimsy. Now if it ever works loose I can just tighten it from the bottom or top. To clean the pot I can just raise the linkage up and just screw the rod out and remove it, without having to take the linkage off. One screw out of the yoke allows removal of the entire handle. Time will tell if it was worth the effort.
 

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Brad

Benevolent Overlord and site owner
Staff member
That should help stop the drip.
Lee doesn't have the market cornered on drips. My RCBS drips too, or at least it did. I clamped the rod down tight and switched to a ladle.
My drips are my fault, I got sawdust and crud under the melt. They accumulated over time in the spout. I need to drain it completely and see what I can use to scrape the crud out.
 

Tony

Active Member
I have permanently solved the leaky bottom poor issue with a SAECO Utility Pot. This pot is a ladle pot from the get go. Tony
 

Rally Hess

Well-Known Member
pot mods 2 001.JPG I put the second pot together today. Second one is always easier. I didn't like the little bit of wobble where the linkage and limit stop mounts on the right, so also drilled that out on both pots and ran a 3/16" rod from top to bottom of the pot and tapped on both ends. Wobble gone. Now if I can just get the material for the base I'll be on a roll. Not pictured are the two limit stop screws. I'm waiting to get a couple grade 8 cap screws when I go to town next.pot mods 2 002.JPG
 

Rally Hess

Well-Known Member
Has anyone ever tried any "Never Sieze" on a lead pot pivot point, to see if it worked? Seems like the limit stop screws on my linkage would be a good place to try it. I used synthetic 2 cycle when I put it together and did a test run, seemed to work but will eventually burn off.
 

minmax

Active Member
Rally, are those torsion springs on th linkage. Or just colored washers? I like the new linkage, how has it been working out for you?
 

Rally Hess

Well-Known Member
Minmax,
They are brass washers and a nut(one inside and one outside of the yoke) to tighten the washers and maintain a tension on the handle. The bolt is a 10x32 grade 8 cap screw. Other than a test run after putting them together, I've not cast with them. I considered a torsion spring, and already have some I use with some of my products, but the weight of the linkage seems to be heavy enough. Time will tell.
I'm trying to get caught up on work in the shop so I can go pheasant hunting again next week, so casting is going to have to wait.
 

minmax

Active Member
Cool, I checked out Ace Hardware just tonight. I needed some metric screws.. I know it is a different brand and not wishing to high jack this thread.
The picture in my Avatar of the Lyman. Some one converted to left handed use. I got all of the replacement parts. I also replaced all screws and other hardware with stainless. I think if and when I ever change it back. It would be good to have a few brass washers on hand.
It's funny I grew to like the way it is now. Guide the mold with your right hand. Push the handle down with your left. After filling twist your right hand inward, to knock off the sprue with with your left. I like pushing down, instead of lifting up the handle
And, yes I have had no leaking. (Yet)
 
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Ian

Notorious member
Has anyone ever tried any "Never Sieze" on a lead pot pivot point, to see if it worked? Seems like the limit stop screws on my linkage would be a good place to try it. I used synthetic 2 cycle when I put it together and did a test run, seemed to work but will eventually burn off.

I use synthetic PAO oil on the moving parts of my 4-20, once a session is plenty good, and I usually run at least two pots through per session.
 

Mike W1

Active Member
Made the new steel "knob" yesterday, 7 oz. as to 2.1 oz. aluminum one. Don't think it'll "float" as the valve rod only weighs 2.5 oz. itself. Ran through about 5 lbs. of ingots this afternoon and between bending the valve rod tip and the heavier "knob" up top might have about as much success as can be expected. Think I maybe touched the handle 3 times during the little session and 3 drips ain't too bad. Course it'll probably go nuts next time.
 
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Ian

Notorious member
Ian,
What is PAO oil?

PolyAlphaOlefin, a fully-synthesized oil molecule defined by Group IV lubricating oil base stocks. Another one is the POE, which is Polyol Ester, another synthesized or sometimes naturally occurring molecule similar to mono- or Diester oils.
 

minmax

Active Member
Way over my head. So what's a brand name? I've read the threads over at that "other" site. Using ester oil, to lube your molds. This spring I looked at some.
They all seem to have dye in them, to find leaks. I'm not looking for a leak. ha ha.....
Besides $15 for 10oz would last two lifetimes.