Mitty38
Well-Known Member
If you can not see them. They are not there. LOL
"Elvis" 61 grain in the AR 15 thread
- Thread starter Mitty38
- Start date
Mitty38
Well-Known Member
Ok so
The bullet 61 grain plain based, "Elvis".225, ordered to cast. 224 from Arsenal.
Alloy-
Cast with Alloy of 90 percent lead, 3 tin, 7 Antimony. No quench.
Powder coated with Eastwood Maroon. Also some with Smokes Clear. With no appreciable difference in performance.
Sized back to. 224. Lee push thru sized. Weighing in at 59 grain + or - . 2 Grain.
Brass- .556 LakeCity once fired, full length sized Lee die. Trimmed to 1.76
Crimp Lee factory crimp die. Crimped to .001 smaller. OAL 2.25
Powder H335. 19 grain +- . 1
Primer - Winchester small rifle.
Gun upper.
Colt full bolt carrier group.
Barrel BCA 16 inch m4 ramped 223 wild. 1 in 8 twist. Carbine length gas system. No internal coating on the barrel, plain bare steel. Standard flash suppressor.
Lower Noreen. Standard Mill Spec M4 Carbine lower spring, tube and buffer.
The bullet 61 grain plain based, "Elvis".225, ordered to cast. 224 from Arsenal.
Alloy-
Cast with Alloy of 90 percent lead, 3 tin, 7 Antimony. No quench.
Powder coated with Eastwood Maroon. Also some with Smokes Clear. With no appreciable difference in performance.
Sized back to. 224. Lee push thru sized. Weighing in at 59 grain + or - . 2 Grain.
Brass- .556 LakeCity once fired, full length sized Lee die. Trimmed to 1.76
Crimp Lee factory crimp die. Crimped to .001 smaller. OAL 2.25
Powder H335. 19 grain +- . 1
Primer - Winchester small rifle.
Gun upper.
Colt full bolt carrier group.
Barrel BCA 16 inch m4 ramped 223 wild. 1 in 8 twist. Carbine length gas system. No internal coating on the barrel, plain bare steel. Standard flash suppressor.
Lower Noreen. Standard Mill Spec M4 Carbine lower spring, tube and buffer.
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Mitty38
Well-Known Member
No, I am new to rifle loading so not a lot of powders. I am kinda in the making due, and doing the best with what I have, mode. Primers are dwindling in numbers too.
When I get these loaded up, I may start back up with some 4064. As it is the only other Rifle powder, I have more then a half pound of.
But my original goal, was 4 MOA, and a fully functioning, no issue, no lead build up AR15 load. I have achieved that. So loading a bunch up, while I still have primers.
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Mitty38
Well-Known Member
Not sure what you are getting at.
The brass is once fired, the necks are trimmed and
the little lee deburing and cantering tool used. Then ran thru a full length sizing- recapping die.
Then flaring with the lee universal neck flaring tool, just enough to get the bullet in without scraping the powder coat.
The brass is once fired, the necks are trimmed and
the little lee deburing and cantering tool used. Then ran thru a full length sizing- recapping die.
Then flaring with the lee universal neck flaring tool, just enough to get the bullet in without scraping the powder coat.
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waco
Springfield, Oregon
I use this RCBS die. I shoot for around .001” neck tension. YMMV
www.rcbs.com
Buy Neck Expander Die and More | RCBS
Shopping for the Neck Expander Die - Learn more about the latest Expander & Trim Dies and other hunting or shooting gear at RCBS.
www.rcbs.com
Mitty38
Well-Known Member
I see, I guess there would be several ways to do it.
Have a rod made like a decapper rod with a sizing ball a bit bigger, then go ahead and still use the flaring tool.
Or I could just have the universal flaring tool machined down a bit.
Or buy something on the market.
Or Since I am going .224 I could just seat a jacketed bullet then pull it with a kinetic puller. Then flare a touch and load up the lead.
I can see where this might get me a bit more accuracy.
Mitty38
Well-Known Member
I see I could order that in .224 the same size as my bullet ? Keep my brass from sizing my lead. Then the only place the bullet would be smaller would be at the crimp edge.I use this RCBS die. I shoot for around .001” neck tension. YMMV
Buy Neck Expander Die and More | RCBS
Shopping for the Neck Expander Die - Learn more about the latest Expander & Trim Dies and other hunting or shooting gear at RCBS.
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Mitty38
Well-Known Member
If it can get me down to a definate 3 MOA or less, consistent.
I might just end up with something I can hunt Yote with.
I would feel comfortable with 3 MOA, yote hunting out to 100 yards, with a shooting stick. It does not take that much velocity to kill a coyote, so I am already going way more then fast enough. Plus expansion is not a big deal, one small hole all the way thru anywhere in the 8 inch kill zone will be most effective on a trash dog.
I am not that far from 3, your Advice might just get me there.
Going to wait till Ian jumps in and see what he has to say, but they have two left at .224 so hopefully I do not miss the boat.
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Ian
Notorious member
You're absolutely right Emmett, lots of ways to prepare case necks correctly for cast bullets and it doesn't have to be fancy as long as the method/tools accomplishes two things: provides suitable tension to the bullet, and makes/keeps the neck straight and concentric with the case body. Some methods are better than others.
My .22s like about 1.5 thousandths neck tension. Come to think of it, ALL my rifles do.
My .22s like about 1.5 thousandths neck tension. Come to think of it, ALL my rifles do.
Mitty38
Well-Known Member
My Lee decapper , sizer rod measures .2225.
So I am currently working with 1.5 neck tension. Of course with spring Back probable 2.
So not too sure now if it is worth the 35 bucks to try .
Might try using a jacketed bullet then pounding it out on a few just to see if there is a difference. Or finding a piece of drill rod at .2235 or sanding one down to that, to try a few. Before I go spending the cash.
So I am currently working with 1.5 neck tension. Of course with spring Back probable 2.
So not too sure now if it is worth the 35 bucks to try .
Might try using a jacketed bullet then pounding it out on a few just to see if there is a difference. Or finding a piece of drill rod at .2235 or sanding one down to that, to try a few. Before I go spending the cash.
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Ian
Notorious member
Unless you actually measure the inside of the case neck, you have no way of knowing what size it really is.
I tried making you a proper expander for your Lee universal die but dammit I ruined it in heat treating. My timing for the 30-caliber spuds is about .0000000000032 seconds too long for the .22 and I roasted it.
I tried making you a proper expander for your Lee universal die but dammit I ruined it in heat treating. My timing for the 30-caliber spuds is about .0000000000032 seconds too long for the .22 and I roasted it.
Mitty38
Well-Known Member
WOW I Really appreciate you fellows going down this Rabbit hole with me. Without you guys I would have not gotten where I am.
That little .22ish caliber stuff really adds an extra dimension of oh crap to things, don't it? Like my powder coating experience, never slumped a bullet till I tried .223.
Kinda makes you appreciate more, the consistency, of those 500 round Budget Boxes of CCI 22lr.
Thinking about size and fit. I may just be able to go faster and get to another more accurate node once I, we, get this neck thing figured out.
Have about a hundred pre primed mixed brass left, besides my Lake City Stash. Going to load up that odd stuff to have something for my son and I to plink around with, on the AR steel, and standing drills, till I can go farther with this load.
I will be patient and leave the rest of my Lake City brass alone, till we can figure out this neck thing.
So I guess it is getting about time to fire up the pot and concentrate on getting a huge stash of consistent, pretty bullets.
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fiver
Well-Known Member
the casting for higher velocity thing wears me out, I can't just go on a 4 hour cruise like I do with my lyman 4 cavity pistol molds and know I now have 1-2000 'good nuff' bullets.
it's like maybe 20 minutes or so setup time, then a good hour or maybe 1.5hrs. of concentration of how I'm pouring, mold placement, counting, watching what comes out, and sprue management [how big, where the alloy hits it, color] and then feeling the break [and looking at the base] to determine how much faster or slower I need to be going at any given time.
I've thrown back entire batches of bullets more than once if I'm not getting what I want, and waiting until I have another day to go at it again.
what's even harder is when I purposely want a slight rounding on the gas check base, and have to fiddle with pouring a small sprue button just big enough to suck in alloy, but not large enough to fill out the bottom edges, then pour over the top of them to keep the plate warm and make sure I can get the sprue out of the plate.
it's like maybe 20 minutes or so setup time, then a good hour or maybe 1.5hrs. of concentration of how I'm pouring, mold placement, counting, watching what comes out, and sprue management [how big, where the alloy hits it, color] and then feeling the break [and looking at the base] to determine how much faster or slower I need to be going at any given time.
I've thrown back entire batches of bullets more than once if I'm not getting what I want, and waiting until I have another day to go at it again.
what's even harder is when I purposely want a slight rounding on the gas check base, and have to fiddle with pouring a small sprue button just big enough to suck in alloy, but not large enough to fill out the bottom edges, then pour over the top of them to keep the plate warm and make sure I can get the sprue out of the plate.