Fluxing cone

M3845708Bama

Active Member
In the recent "Home Shop Machinist" there was an article on a suposited better way of mixing flux with the allow. It looked like a bell with holes near the top. It was my understanding of the article that the flux was put inside cone and then it was pushed to bottom of pot and worked up and down like a plunger. The intent was to get the flux mixed with the alloy even at the bottom of the pot. Has anyone tried this method and does it really work?
 

KeithB

Resident Half Fast Machinist
Haven't tried it but I would be REAL CERTAIN that whatever flux I used was bone-dry.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
I don't push anything under the surface of the melt. Likewise I do not use any sort of wood stick or spoon. I use sawdust on top of the melt and use a ladle or spoon to bring alloy up from the bottom and then pour it through the flux. Anything you push under the melt the specific gravity of lead will hold it in suspension under the melt. Yes flux is much lighter than lead and most of it will float but lead is dense enough to hold it in the melt and then of course in your bullets.
 

Ian

Notorious member
Sounds like a better way to use sulphur than flux, I'd be afraid of putting the cone into orbit.

Sawdust on top, scoop the alloy up from below an drizzle it through. Does it really do any good to take molten metal an run it through a sawdust mat? The object being for the wood to reduce oxidized lead/tin/antimony and adsorb the trash oxides....who knows but it makes me feel better.
 

Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Not my intention to tell anyone else how to do it. Explaining how and why I do what I do. My alloy is quite clean and I have nothing trapped below the surface. Couldn't have because I don't put anything below the surface. If you use a stick to stir and flux the stick will not burn because there is no air below the surface but it does char and pieces of that charred wood will flake off. To each their own as the saying goes. If your happy with the way your doing it your doing it right for you. As am I.
 

mikld

New Member
I am not familiar with the method the OP describes. I have used many "fluxes" from sawdust, candle wax, bullet lube, Good Mews cat litter, Marvelux (?), to charcoal brickettes. Used motor oil was suggested to me by a long time caster, but that just doesn't sound good to me, might work, but will stink! Mesquite smoking chips smelled good but I only tried that once or twice. I don't think the fluxes would do much good just sitting on top of the melt so I stir often with a wooden stick and push the flux down into the alloy, most often with my slotted spoon. My bullets come out pretty clean so I'm good with my stuff...
 
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Rick

Moderator
Staff member
Welcome to the forum copperBB, happy to have you here.

Your absolutely correct, that is an outstanding book. It not only describes why motor oil isn't a flux (besides the stink) but also waxes and other oils. The entire book is a worthwhile read. It is written by Glen Fryxell, a moderator on this forum.
 

dannyd93140

New Member
In Florida a wood paint stick works the best for me. Sawdust takes in moisture and does not work as well as the paint stick. Couple of stirs and ready to go.
 

GRMPS

Active Member
I flux with pine sawdust first then wax. When the pine or wax has burnt off I incorporate it into the pot with a potato masher, I feel it gets the flux to the bottom of the pot. Then I grab a wire whisk and finish the fluxing.

The fluxing cone would be safe enough if you let the flux sit on top of the melt for a while before fluxing
 

Pistolero

Well-Known Member
I love having an expert chemist "on staff", via his book. Glen is a real treasure trove
of valuable info in this field.

Bill