Gassiest primers?
- Thread starter KeithB
- Start date
RicinYakima
High Steppes of Eastern Washington
I would try Federal 205's; they are said to be low temperature, no aluminum powder and high volume. FWIW
fiver
Well-Known Member
there's magnum and then there's magnum.
one type burns hotter and throws a ton more sparks.
the second type merely burns longer but at the same brisance as a normal primer.
I'd give those white box CCI 41? or 35? a look over, they are pretty much the same thing as the CCI magnum just with a slight bit more cup strength.
one type burns hotter and throws a ton more sparks.
the second type merely burns longer but at the same brisance as a normal primer.
I'd give those white box CCI 41? or 35? a look over, they are pretty much the same thing as the CCI magnum just with a slight bit more cup strength.
bruce381
Active Member
used to know a guy that loaded bulleye in his 44 mags. Was 5 grains or so then some unique then some 296 or whatever was avalible 30 years ago. Said the bulleye lit the unique which lit the 296 or whatever he was loading was a compressed load to boot..
Do i have to say thread drift or is this OK?
Do i have to say thread drift or is this OK?
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fiver
Well-Known Member
I skip the gas part and go straight to a full body flush.
I'm not sure what Keith is trying to accomplish here, but primers don't really generate gas in any sort of volume.
they are more of a chemical reaction to produce heat and flame [IE a small directionally controlled explosion]
some of them produce more sparks [burning material] that are light enough to fly away while burning.[federal]
and others produce more of a fanning out flame front [Winchester]
anyway they don't make much gas but have a pretty good sine wave front [shock wave] that will push things in front of them.
I'm not sure what Keith is trying to accomplish here, but primers don't really generate gas in any sort of volume.
they are more of a chemical reaction to produce heat and flame [IE a small directionally controlled explosion]
some of them produce more sparks [burning material] that are light enough to fly away while burning.[federal]
and others produce more of a fanning out flame front [Winchester]
anyway they don't make much gas but have a pretty good sine wave front [shock wave] that will push things in front of them.
If possible I would think the blanks used for driving nails might be a better choice?
Could a small chamber be made to hold a small, and I mean a few gr of black powder to generate gas? Baby bro uses a small charge of BP to eject the chute from large scale model rockets.
Could a small chamber be made to hold a small, and I mean a few gr of black powder to generate gas? Baby bro uses a small charge of BP to eject the chute from large scale model rockets.
Joshua
Taco Aficionado/Salish Sea Pirate/Part-Time Dragon
Back when I was doing Facilities pipe fitting, refilling/servicing fire extinguishers was part of the job. We had fire suppression systems installed on the CAT loaders. The system used explosive squibs that look like a big primer. I recall them being quite expensive but they might work for your need.
JonB
Halcyon member
You haven't said what you are doing, but I "assume" is machining related???
have you considered CO² ?
I mean it works great for pellet guns...and there is no fire/explosion.
ALso, I recall seeing a "kit" that uses CO² to expel a lead ball/conical from a loaded muzzleloader, if there was a fail to fire.
have you considered CO² ?
I mean it works great for pellet guns...and there is no fire/explosion.
ALso, I recall seeing a "kit" that uses CO² to expel a lead ball/conical from a loaded muzzleloader, if there was a fail to fire.
KeithB
Resident Half Fast Machinist
Not trying to be mysterious or anything. My ultimate goal is to be able to shoot some of my centerfire revolvers indoors in our shop using low powered reusable loads. I have a sample of a Speer primer powered .38/.357 size cartridge with a plastic reusable bullet. I'm trying to come up with something similar but designed a little differently. I don't have access to any plastic molding equipment but I can make anything I need in any practical quantity using our CNC lathe.
I also have access to all sorts of materials, I can try different types of polymers for the projectile, maybe even for the case (instead of metal). Like to try some Teflon impregnated stuff for the bullet, Nylon is pretty slipppery also.
I understand adding a pinch of powder to generate more gas but at this point I'd like to try using primers only.
Some pretty good ideas from you guys but now that I've described the situation you can see that some just don't apply but thanks anyway for sharing your thoughts.
I've tried BB and pellet pistols but none are quite the same as a full size DA revolver.
I also have access to all sorts of materials, I can try different types of polymers for the projectile, maybe even for the case (instead of metal). Like to try some Teflon impregnated stuff for the bullet, Nylon is pretty slipppery also.
I understand adding a pinch of powder to generate more gas but at this point I'd like to try using primers only.
Some pretty good ideas from you guys but now that I've described the situation you can see that some just don't apply but thanks anyway for sharing your thoughts.
I've tried BB and pellet pistols but none are quite the same as a full size DA revolver.
I played with the Speer primer powered 44 plastic cases and plastic bullets once. Used magnum pistol primers and the cases split. A letter to RCBS stating what happened was returned saying only use standard primers. The instructions didn't state this. There use to be a company that made primer powered wasp waisted rubber wad cutters for practice but I haven't heard of them in ages. Delrin might make a suitable slug.
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Ian
Notorious member
I think bullet design would make as much difference as primer selection. Definitely drill out the flash hole a little. I'm envisioning a Nylon bullet with a two-radius round nose where the ogive blends into a wide front band of bore diameter, a generous displacement groove behind that, and a shallow, conical skirt slightly larger than groove diameter behind that. If making them on a CNC lathe, face the rod, then cut a shallow cone, then turn the profile down and part it off leaving a small flat nose on the bullet. Might be able to skip the facing operation on the next one and go straight to cutting the conical base.
