Same here, if they had passed the quiet leg. I might have gone for it. Night vision the same, not enough use to make sense. Good ones do work well. I could get the old camcorder out and put a vis filter on it. Has the IR filter sw. already. Now if they got the display and batt. off the sight, use heads-up VR glasses, much more cost effective. Nothing but detector and magnifier on the rifle. Course I'm still working on a good mount system for M.S. blade.
Getting started with the 300blk ...
- Thread starter wquiles
- Start date
wquiles
Well-Known Member
wquiles
Well-Known Member
You know Ian, I think I will. I have been with her a little over 35 years, 30 of those married, so yes, I think she is a keeper 
I now need to figure out how to do a simple trigger job in the two CVA single shots that I have. The trigger pull is a little heavy for my taste.
I now need to figure out how to do a simple trigger job in the two CVA single shots that I have. The trigger pull is a little heavy for my taste.
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wquiles
Well-Known Member
I actually found a video on youtube regarding how to remove and install the trigger/internal assembly for a CVA, so I decided to follow along to give these not-yet-fired- CVA's a simple trigger job:
CVA Optima Trigger Assembly ISSUES, a simple fix!
Made the pins out of brass:
Soon I had lots of parts in my bench (here on top you can see pieces for the work-in-progress for my low back-pressure, user-adjustable F1 suppressor):
I didn't touch anything with a stone/file - I only polished the two mating surfaces - here the trigger:
I had the video with me on the bench so that I can follow along:
What the video does not say, is that the lever to open the single-action has to ALSO engage an internal portion to act in releasing the barrell. You can fairly easily put everything back together (with the aid of the two pins - otherwise impossible), but it took me like 5-10min of trying to wiggle that lower assembly until I can catch that inner piece, which also is under spring pressure - you almost need 4 hands to do everything. No wonder the factory uses some type of jig!.
Of course, once I finished with the 300BLK, I did the 35 Whelen as well. The trigger pull is certainly a little lower and smoother on both now, specially on the 35 Whelen - that one end up being a tad lighter.
Will
CVA Optima Trigger Assembly ISSUES, a simple fix!
Made the pins out of brass:
Soon I had lots of parts in my bench (here on top you can see pieces for the work-in-progress for my low back-pressure, user-adjustable F1 suppressor):
I didn't touch anything with a stone/file - I only polished the two mating surfaces - here the trigger:
I had the video with me on the bench so that I can follow along:
What the video does not say, is that the lever to open the single-action has to ALSO engage an internal portion to act in releasing the barrell. You can fairly easily put everything back together (with the aid of the two pins - otherwise impossible), but it took me like 5-10min of trying to wiggle that lower assembly until I can catch that inner piece, which also is under spring pressure - you almost need 4 hands to do everything. No wonder the factory uses some type of jig!.
Of course, once I finished with the 300BLK, I did the 35 Whelen as well. The trigger pull is certainly a little lower and smoother on both now, specially on the 35 Whelen - that one end up being a tad lighter.
Will
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CWLONGSHOT
Well-Known Member
Im liking these NOE Ranch Dog HP bullets.
Here is a lil test done by a friend with bullets I made for him to test.
Im super impressed and the ability for violent expansion AND DEEP penetration withADDITIONAL EXPANSION is outstanding!!
CW
Here is a lil test done by a friend with bullets I made for him to test.
Im super impressed and the ability for violent expansion AND DEEP penetration withADDITIONAL EXPANSION is outstanding!!
CW
wquiles
Well-Known Member
Alright, so I got myself a reliable subsonic load on my AR15 300LBK pistol. This is out of my 10.5" barrel:
These are loaded using these 215gr Flatpoint bullets from Missouri Bullet Company:
The quality of the bullets is "allright" - nothing stellar, and in fact, I found many bent noses in box, as well as imperfections on the slides, or the all important base. Cheap and adequate for plinking, but I would like to now be able to cast on my own a duplicate of this bullet, and go with a gas check as well. Recommendations? send a couple of these to Tom at accurate molds?
Will
These are loaded using these 215gr Flatpoint bullets from Missouri Bullet Company:
The quality of the bullets is "allright" - nothing stellar, and in fact, I found many bent noses in box, as well as imperfections on the slides, or the all important base. Cheap and adequate for plinking, but I would like to now be able to cast on my own a duplicate of this bullet, and go with a gas check as well. Recommendations? send a couple of these to Tom at accurate molds?
Will
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CWLONGSHOT
Well-Known Member
This is my choice.
Will you powder coat?
I ask because you should make dimensional consessions with bore rider bullets. Been down this road... I have a few excellent molds that are unable to be used powder coated.
CW
Will you powder coat?
I ask because you should make dimensional consessions with bore rider bullets. Been down this road... I have a few excellent molds that are unable to be used powder coated.
CW
waco
Springfield, Oregon
This one is similar. http://accuratemolds.com/bullet_detail.php?bullet=31-215E3
wquiles
Well-Known Member
YES!. It will be powder coated. That Missouri bullet is approx .309" OD with that Hi-tech coating - I would like to achieve something similar, since they are working so well and shooting straight in my pistol
wquiles
Well-Known Member
Oh wow, that one is really close indeed, and sized at .308" might be perfect for my usage. Once I do PC coating, I can then size to .309"
CWLONGSHOT
Well-Known Member
Well then if you go the Accurate mold route. Choose a smaller nose (of have custom cut done) to accommodate the .002-.003 thickness ON EACH SIDE of the bullet.Oh wow, that one is really close indeed, and sized at .308" might be perfect for my usage. Once I do PC coating, I can then size to .309"
This is what I did for my 36-310w mold I just got and its as slick as can be.
CW
Ian
Notorious member
Watch the advice you give CW, it is not universal.
I have had Tom make me a 135-grain .38 wadcutter and a heavy Blackout bullet both, plus I have cut my own 45-250 RF with a cherry I ground myself. In all cases I allowed .002" for coating in an effort to eliminate the sizing operations entirely. The mould I cut myself was brass and I really wish it were .0005" larger. The lesson is order no smaller than .002" under desired final if you use Airsoft bbs for a glob-free coat. This is with four different colors of poly TGIC powder.
I have had Tom make me a 135-grain .38 wadcutter and a heavy Blackout bullet both, plus I have cut my own 45-250 RF with a cherry I ground myself. In all cases I allowed .002" for coating in an effort to eliminate the sizing operations entirely. The mould I cut myself was brass and I really wish it were .0005" larger. The lesson is order no smaller than .002" under desired final if you use Airsoft bbs for a glob-free coat. This is with four different colors of poly TGIC powder.
CWLONGSHOT
Well-Known Member
I don't completely understand your comment Ian. Most of his molds are cut on a CNC so you have alternate control of dimensions of the bullet. Of course if you're cutting with a cherry you do not have that versatility.
I'm fully aware you can adjust and alter the thickness of your powder coat but the fact remains as there will be a thickness of your powder coat. Unless you're totally inept at applying powder coat, it's gonna be within .003 or so thickness on the bullet.
The babies will have nothing to do with the thickness of your coat hair to create static to create surface area to better apply powder. Your powder thickness more exact, your final powder thickness is control as you sit off after the powder is applied to your bullets. This is of course speaking to Shakin bake not powder applied by a air gun.
CW
I'm fully aware you can adjust and alter the thickness of your powder coat but the fact remains as there will be a thickness of your powder coat. Unless you're totally inept at applying powder coat, it's gonna be within .003 or so thickness on the bullet.
The babies will have nothing to do with the thickness of your coat hair to create static to create surface area to better apply powder. Your powder thickness more exact, your final powder thickness is control as you sit off after the powder is applied to your bullets. This is of course speaking to Shakin bake not powder applied by a air gun.
CW
Ian
Notorious member
I must be inept then. I get .002" total increase in diameter after coating, every time. If you're advising someone to go .003" or more under when specifying a $100+ custom mould, you're doing them a major disservice if they take your advice. Not everybody globbers the coating on as thick and lumpy as you do.
