Glass Bed

[Ben]

Yesterday I decided to glass bed my new T/C Venture , 30-06 rifle.
I thought you might like to see how it is done.
I'm very happy with the end results of the project.

Ben

24 hours later, here is the " Finished Product".
The front and rear of the action rest on pillars.

 

[Brad]

Do you use any tape on the front or bottom of the recoil lug? Just wondering if you use anything to leave a little room in those areas to prevent any binding when action is snugged into place.

Nice work Ben.

 

[Ben]

Thanks Brad,

I've read that is a good idea, however the last 15 or so that I've done, I didn't put " clearance tape " on the recoil lug.

Every one of them have shot great. It just takes a few more taps with a soft rubber hammer and a little rocking to lift the barreled action out of the stock if you omit the " clearance tape " .

No real problem as I don't take my barreled actions out of my stocks very much.

Ben

 

[Will]

Are you giving any special attention to the torque used on the action bolts?



Ben

 

[waco]

I have never tried this. You made that look pretty simple. Thanks for taking the time to show us.

 

[Ben]

Are you giving any special attention to the torque used on the action bolts?



Ben

I used the same torque that was used at the factory when the rifle was assembled.

Ben

 

[Ben]

I have never tried this. You made that look pretty simple. Thanks for taking the time to show us.

You could easily do it.
Just be darned careful that the guard screws and guard screw holes in your action have plenty of Black moly grease on them. Once AcraGlass sets up , it is " Hell Bend " for strong.

There are several rifles that are permanent glue ins because the owners failed to ready the directions that came with their glass bed kits.

Ben

 

[waco]

Just be darned careful that the guard screws and guard screw holes in your action have plenty of Black moly grease on them.

Copy that!

 

[Brad]

I have always used Johnson paste wax for a release agent. Lots is smeared on the entire screw but the threads are filled with the stuff.
Ben is dead right, it is easy to make the stock permanent.

 

[Chris]

I like paste wax here, though the Brownell's release agent is good too. Apply liberally with a stiff brush. I use modelling clay to fill in areas that might prevent release later.

I just bedded 2 Marlins with RTV a la McPherson method, as well as a Ruger #3 with glass. All came apart easily.

 

[Ben]

All came apart easily.

It always makes me feel better when they come apart like they are supposed to ! !

 

[Chris]

Yeah, sometimes there is a tense moment when it doesn't budge and I think I screwed it up somehow.

 

[Ben]

I have a large black rubber hammer.
Sometimes it takes several good blows to get things to move a silly micron.

 

[S Mac]

Thanks for this thread Ben, I've yet to try this myself.

 

[Ian]

The clearance tape on the bottom of the lug is for action buck, not to make the action easier to separate from the stock. Tape on the sides (if recoil lug has any parallel portions) and front is for ease of disassembly. If the stock has pillars in it already, I like to scrape everything down like Ben did, but a little more, to the bare top of the pillars so that when the action is torqued, there is no pressure whatsoever on the action from the skim bedding, only the pillar steel. If you're compressing plastic/wood/bedding compound between the action screw escutcheon and the receiver ring, the action steel will be pre-stressed against the skim coat and likely will have some bow to it which changes with time/heat/humidity. Savage does this with their 10-12-whatever series that have plastic stocks and no accu-rail bedding block, and we know how they shoot out of the box. Little things make the difference and most of these new syn stock rifles have got the pillar thing dialed-in, all they might need is a little custom skim coat like Ben did here to really bring it together.

 

[fiver]

they also do well with some expandable foam sound deadening in the butt stock and forearm.
it doesn't add a bunch of weight, it just seems to help firm things up a little.

 

[Chris]

The matter of glueing steel to stock keeps a lot of guys from doing their own work. I like to leave my leftover epoxy where I can see it in about 4 hours. When it is in a state where it is not tacky but can be dented easily with a thumbnail, I back off the action screws a sixteenth turn and immediately return to original setting. This makes sure your screws don't get glassed in if there is a problem.

One of these would be handy for pulling a sticky action: https://rifleshooter.com/2015/02/rifle-action-stuck-in-bedding-build-a-remington-700-action-puller/

 

[Kevin Stenberg]

Ben Why did you bed the rifle? In the first 2 pictures some of the holes have a feathering around the edges. Did you sand those nubs (feathers) down for a smoother surface?

 

[Ben]

Ben Why did you bed the rifle? In the first 2 pictures some of the holes have a feathering around the edges. Did you sand those nubs (feathers) down for a smoother surface?

Maximum accuracy for the rifle is my goal. The recoil lug area on any bolt action rifle is a very important area of bedding.

Feathering around the edges of the holes is inconsequential .
The goal with the holes was to allow the glass a roughened area to gain a good bond.

Ben

 

[Intheshop]

What kind of fiberglass flocking did you use Ben?